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Jul 29, 2021, 04:46 PM
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Coupez's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rcav8r1952
I'm guessing, the ones in the upper right of the pic are the anchor plates for the wires that go midway between the I-struts and the cabanes?
Well, since you're so sharp-eyed I guess I might as well identify them :

The tabs at upper right go on the horizontal tail, to anchor two sets of wires going through the fin above and sub-fin below.

The plates at lower right go over the cabane strut wires. These anchor the landing wires at one end and cabane wires at the other. Cabane rigging will be simplified by drilling holes in the fuselage sides and top and putting the wires through.

Double tabs at upper left hold lower ends of flying wires at the forward landing gear mount and the lower wing front spar.

Two tabs near the center anchor the ends of the mid-span flying wires. I need to make two more of these since they go on both front and rear spars.

Three-way tabs at lower left anchor the interplane strut ends, the flying (double) or landing (single) wires, and the cross wires on the struts. I stole this idea from the plans for the Hanriot HD-1 (my last project).

Whew!
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Jul 29, 2021, 05:09 PM
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Double Lift Wires


Hi Coupez,

Thanks for the response identifying your flying wire brackets. I've noticed that most of the "lifting" wires on the SE5a are "doubles". Does your wire mounting system take that into account? Reason I ask: I just completed making 32 flying wire brackets for another project . . . and drilling two holes close together to accommodate "double" wires is a pain. Plus, I'm a little concerned that even a slight non-parallelism of the "double" wires will be really noticeable. So, I was wondering if you are planning some type of "double" clevis arrangement for any "double" wires or have some other form of attachment in mind?

Regards,

Dale
Last edited by Rcav8r1952; Jul 29, 2021 at 05:11 PM. Reason: Typos
Jul 29, 2021, 05:47 PM
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portablevcb's Avatar
1/6 scale to me is that in between size where some details aren't really noticeable. At 1/4 scale they are.

I did not put the doubled flying wires on either the SPAD or the WACO YMF and not one person has ever noticed. I suspect most do not even know there are supposed to be doubled flying wires and single landing wires.

Also at 1/6 scale it is hard to have scale turnbuckles small enough to 'fit' in the scale spacing for the doubled wires.

charlie
Jul 29, 2021, 06:37 PM
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Coupez's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by portablevcb
1/6 scale to me is that in between size where some details aren't really noticeable. At 1/4 scale they are.
That's a perfectly valid point. Most Hanriots had doubled flying wires as well. I didn't put them on my model for two reasons:
- the doubled wires were usually faired and wrapped together, so they look like a single thick wire anyway
- my ancient roll of Sullivan cable didn't have enough material, and I didn't want some wires to be a different color

The easiest way to do a double wire would be to use a single anchor and clevis, and just make a loop with the joint in one side. Disguise the swage tube with a piece of heat shrink and it would kinda sorta look like a turnbuckle .

What I'm planning for the SE-5a is a single wire going through the two anchor holes, with a clevis at each end. That should allow the tension to equalize instead of trying to adjust separate wires to the exact same tension. I have plenty of old DuBro Quik-Links on hand and while they are a little big, they don't look terribly out of place on the Hanriot. I've already checked and my double holes are JUST far enough apart for two clevises...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rcav8r1952
. . . and drilling two holes close together to accommodate "double" wires is a pain.
Do you have a center punch? You can mark the holes in ink, use the punch to make little dents, and the drill bit will find the dents...
Jul 29, 2021, 08:58 PM
Registered User

Yup, did that.


Hi Coupez,

Laid out the holes on carefully marked blue masking tape, counterpunched and got a pair of holes pretty well where they should be.

After the current project, of which there aren't too many double flying wires, I shall plan on single wiring on the upcoming Flair SE5a completion.

Naturally, I'll be looking forward to your upcoming flying wiring pics.

BTW: If you would like to observe my Gee Bee Project it can be found in Balsa Builders "Gee Bee Model D Sportster from old Coverite Kit" here https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...t#post46891533

Any comments would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Regards,

Dale
Last edited by Rcav8r1952; Jul 30, 2021 at 07:41 AM. Reason: Added Gee Bee site
Jul 30, 2021, 10:29 AM
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Coupez's Avatar
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Fitting tail surface hinges and the elevator joiner wire. Stabilizer bracing wire tabs are also mounted for trial fit.
Jul 30, 2021, 07:41 PM
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Hi Coupez,

Good looking tail pieces. Those partial ribs on the LE of the stab are very nice indeed.

It looks like your flying wire mounts are screwed directly into the balsa. Are you planning to "toughen" the wood in any manner - Saturate with Super Glue or something?

Regards,

Dale
Jul 30, 2021, 09:28 PM
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Coupez's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rcav8r1952
It looks like your flying wire mounts are screwed directly into the balsa. Are you planning to "toughen" the wood in any manner - Saturate with Super Glue or something?
I actually have little plywood pads under the metal mounts, bringing them up level with the basswood false ribs. I drilled holes through all layers and the upper and lower pads are actually held by a #2-56 bolt on top and hex nut below. No point toughening the wood since the bolt and metal assembly is already harder!
Aug 01, 2021, 07:49 PM
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Glamor shots!


Hingeing the tail surfaces which will soon be covered, so this is about the last chance for a shot of the bare framework assembled.

Total weight as shown is 2 lb 15 oz, or 1325 grams. Left the elevator and rudder servos in place but no other electronics are installed. Hoping for an all-up weight below 6 lb, which should make this a nice slow floater.
Aug 02, 2021, 06:57 AM
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Glamor shots indeed!


Hi Coupez,

Beautiful work! Looking forward to what's next in your build.

Regards,

Dale
Aug 02, 2021, 05:54 PM
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Looking sensational.

Do you think there is an extra 3lbs of stuff to be done on it?
Aug 02, 2021, 07:41 PM
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Coupez's Avatar
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The 6S 3000mAh battery pack weighs just under a pound.

There is a heavy motor, an ESC, two more servos, and a receiver.

All the control system hardware has to be added, and all the bracing wires.

Covering and painting will add considerable weight.

Finally there is a scale cockpit, armament, and pilot figure/video camera (not both at once) to consider.

My lightest 1/6 scale WWI build with this power system to date is the Hanriot, right at 6 lb. If I can match that with the SE I'll be happy. I know others have built this kit as light as 4 lb, but theirs weren't as fully detailed or highly powered.
Aug 02, 2021, 11:17 PM
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Ah yes I forgot that you were running the 6S setup. That's going to add some weight but having said that I doubt you'll need any extra weight to balance it.
Aug 03, 2021, 07:56 AM
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That's the idea - big motors and batteries are "useful ballast" .
Aug 03, 2021, 09:11 AM
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Trial fitted the center section Lewis gun and things were way out of place. After scratching my head awhile I noticed the center section cutout for the cockpit was too big. Peter Rake's idea of using the same plans to build both wings forced the larger lower wing cutout to be used for both. So this is brought to the correct shape using a bit of leftover TE stock and and a few other things.


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