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Old Jan 31, 2009, 03:15 AM
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nice!! but some of us have burned that motor on 6s.. try to avoid it.. 5s is max and 950 -1000 watts is peak 800watts if you dont control the throttle too well.

have fun
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Old Jan 31, 2009, 06:04 PM
Murocflyer is offline
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How fast can the stock out of the box RTF Stryker go. Does anyone know?

Is the A or B model faster?

Thanks,

Frank
Old Jan 31, 2009, 06:23 PM
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F-27C model is brushless and does 65MPH stock, and with 6X5.5 APC E prop that will become 72 MPH.
Old Jan 31, 2009, 06:57 PM
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Thanks for the info.

Frank
Old Mar 01, 2009, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GryphonRCU
F-27C model is brushless and does 65MPH stock, and with 6X5.5 APC E prop that will become 72 MPH.
are there any cons to using this prop?? I.E. with the higher pitch does slower speed thrust suffer??


and a quick question for everyone....

i just had my first big crash with my strykerC, it was a near head-on with a light tower at mach2 all the electronics (aside from stripped servos) somehow survived the ejection.... but the fuse was near ripped in half... im in the process of gluing in all back together, and im ready to glue the spars back in....i searched a bit, and couldnt find the head-on view.... one wing has what would look like some dihedral in it, the other is dead flat..... wich one should i correct???

thanks for reading....

*edit* i threw in a pic to help explain... hope it helps, Thanks for reading!
Last edited by iamtheroboto; Mar 01, 2009 at 01:29 PM.
Old Mar 01, 2009, 01:57 PM
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i can't really tell from the pic but the wings should be flat. with new fuses i actually try to bend them down a bit (anhedral) as they tend to bend up slowly over time. i have one old fuse that's so bent it's practically a lifting body now.
Old Mar 01, 2009, 09:48 PM
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iamtheroboto,

I prefer flat wings and when I install additional C.F. I make sure to weight the wing down in various places (as the epoxy dries) so it maintains that shape.

Most important thing is to make sure both sides are the same.

***Very easy fix would to get help for 2 minutes from a friend or a family member..

You hold the wing where you want it to stay and they can apply a strip of tape under the wing to help retain the shape.
***So curve down the bent up side to even shape as other side and run down a long strip of tape from one side to other. This will help prevent the normal and gradual curve up of the wing. Also during full up elevator it will help keep both wings from flexing as much up in flight...
Who knows maybe the repaired Fuse will perform better than before.....LOL.
Make sure the tape is stretched a little as it gets applied under the wing.

My buddies and I use 3M packing tape for light weight OR 3M Extreme tape (Bidirectional strapping tape) for heavy duty applications.

See what others think and tell us how it all works out for you.

________________

See if post #3881 on this other thread is helpful to you:

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...61678&page=259


Gryphon
Old Mar 01, 2009, 10:46 PM
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excellent, thanks for the replies....

ill get a jig together that has a cutout for the center of the fuse, and will let me clamp the whole thing perfectly flat....

once i get it all back together and test it out, ill decide on whether or not its worth it to repaint and/or glass the LE's.....

thanks again!
Old May 06, 2009, 03:59 AM
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I love my Stryker and it always gets an outing when I fly at the club field. It's also the perfect windy day flyer but I feel the need for more speed so have bought two 4 cell lipo's, 2500 mah,20c's. Plan to use my existing Keda Thumrun 2837/10 which is a 1480kv 78 gram motor which runs a 7x6 prop at the moment. Have a watt meter & shooting for 30-35 amps for the first flights so reckon on a 6x4 to 7x4 prop as a starting point. I went for a lower kv so I could keep props in the 6-7" range. My Align 430L equipped Mugi Evo runs a 5x2 prop at 25K rpm and has been banned on noise grounds from one of my club fields! The cheek of those gas guys.
I've done the usual nose weight removal,carbon across the wing and from nose to tails mods.Also glassed her and I replaced te and control surfaces with balsa & using correx fins.
How do I get it to balance with a 4 cell pack or is a little nose heavy OK providing I add a little more reflex and give it a firm shove. The motors costs under 12 so plan to push it until something goes and then prop down to safe limits on my second one. Keda specs are :-
Motor Diameter: 28mm
Motor Length: 37mm
Shaft Diameter: 3.17mm
Motor Weight: 78g
Rpm/Volt (kv):1480
Idle Current (Io) @8,4 V:1.1A
Resistance (Ri): 0.016
Power:480W
but we know how wild some of these claims can be. Rob at Giantcod says that Keda havn't tested it on 4 cells.
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Old May 06, 2009, 04:10 AM
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1480 kv short can @ .016 ohms? Where can i buy some!
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Old May 06, 2009, 11:28 AM
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Giantcod in the UK. Rob's prices are really keen and he tends to get in custom winds to try. Dr Kiwi was sent a bunch of the Keda Thumrun's to test.
I'm getting really high amp draw on 4 cells and even went down to a 4.2 x 2 prop & still pulling over 40 amps. Amp meter was reading over 16 volts - seems high for a 4 cell pack. When going from 2 to 3 cells I normally go down a prop size e.g. 8x4 to 7x4 so I figured that going from 3 to 4 would have been the same. No way could I run a 6x4 let alone a 7x4. Any bright ideas?
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Old May 06, 2009, 03:10 PM
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I was thinking 6x4 on 7s 3300 40c propower
1095 watts in 1028 watts out.. should run ice cold and fly 140 ish mph in a wing

how much is it?
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Old May 08, 2009, 12:49 PM
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What is the optimal prop for the stock C motor? I have a 40A ESC and will be running 3-cell 2200mah packs.
Can anyone recommend an optimal prop or what will give me the most speed w/out burning things up?
I currently have APC 6x4, 4.75x4.74, and 5.5x4.5.
I don't have an Amp meter so any help would be appreciated.
Old May 08, 2009, 12:57 PM
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6x5 EMP or 6x5.5 apc in that order
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Old May 08, 2009, 01:15 PM
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Thanks for the quick reply. Looks like I'll try the 6x4 until I can get some new ones in.
What kind of speeds can I expect with the 6x4 and the 6x5?


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