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New Product
50" BE2c
I've wanted to build a BE2c for a long time and somehow just never got around to it. But the bug bit again recently, so figured no time better than the present. The original idea was for a simple sport scale model, but the more I thought about it, the better the idea of going for a more "scale" look sounded. The result was a design that is scale in outline using as near to the scale airfoil as the drawings I have would allow. The pull/pull cable set up for the elevator will be scale as well using external bell cranks actuated by a servo in the fuselage. The rudder will also be cable controlled by a servo in the fuselage.
The wings and tail are set up with scale rib spacing and include the false ribs as well. The ailerons will be controlled by a servo in each bottom wing and upper and lower ailerons connected with link rods. The wings will also be removable in pairs for easier transport. In the end, the model will be covered with Polyspan and painted, so figuring the extra work involved in covering, I might as well make the model as scale as possible, yet still fall within a realistic realm for the average Park Flyer builder. The full scale BE2 had a 37' wingspan, so at 50", the model ended up at approximately 1:9 scale (1:8.88 to be exact). The plan is to power the model with a Suppo 2217 Outrunner on 2 cells. Then once it's all done, it'll go to Model Aviation magazine as a Construction Article and parts available from Manzano Laser. |
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Building the Tail Skid
Suffice it to say that going into the project it appeared on the surface to be a fairly simple airplane as biplanes go. But as the drawings progressed, it occurred to me that this was not as simple originally thought. So what we end up with is a fairly complicated design that was made as simple as possible without loosing the charm of the airplane being modeled.
The first thing that brought this to light was the tail skid. The unit consists of 5 bent wire components. The easiest way to assemble it is by making a simple jig block using the hole locations on the fuselage. Since some tweaking is needed to get the parts to align properly, I made the jig from a pine block rather than balsa. Then with the parts bent to rough shape and properly aligned the main stanchion was soldered together. The skid itself was fitted next, tack soldered, then wrapped with copper wire onto the stanchion and soldered. The spring was added using a the bendable section from a plastic soda straw. Balsa discs were fitted into each end, the slipped into the skid and glued in place. Admittedly, this part will challenge even a modeler of some experience, but when it's done, the toughest party of the build will be behind you. |
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Assembling the Main Landding Gear
The main gear is done in 2 sections. The front and rear struts were bent to shape and the axle cut to length from 1/16 steel wire. A simple jig was made to properly space the front and rear struts. The struts were tack glued in place with the front strut perpendicular to the jig. The axle was tack soldered between the struts, the joints wrapped with copper wire and soldered in place.
The fairings are made from 1/8" balsa, slotted and glued in place on the landing gear. The gaps were filled with drywall mud and sanded to contour. When done the wood was sealed with nitrate dope. And finally, the landing gear and tail wheel assemblies were painted with Tamiya acrylic. |
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Making the Bowed Outlines
The wingtips, rudder outline and the corners of the horizontal stabilizers were bowed from balsa over forms made from artists foam board. All of the components were done and set aside so that when construction begins they'll be handy.
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Building the Vertical Stabilizer and Rudder
The fin/rudder assembly is straight forward in form and built from standard size balsa sticks. Shims are used to center the fin LE and bowed rudder outline. Then with the assemblies complete, they were lifted from the board, sanded to shape, and the hinges dry fitted in place.
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Building the Horizontal Stabilizer
There's a good bit of structure in the horizontal stabilizer due to the 2 main spars and false ribs. To keep the build a bit more simple, the front spar and false ribs won't be added until the major framing is done. and the assembly lifted from the board. The stabilizer and elevator is built as a single unit, then cut apart, sanded to shape, and the hinges dry fitted.
From there, the control horn hard points are glued in place and the hinges dry fitted in place. |
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Covering and Painting the Rudder Assembly
The rudder and fin were covered with Polyspan and sealed with 5 coats of nitrate dope. The fin was painted using Tamiya Brown and the rudder in red, white, and blue. When dry the control horn was glued in place and painted satin black.
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Getting Started on the Fuselage
The fuselage side frames were built up directly over the plans. When dry they were lifted from the board and sanded to eliminate the glue goobers that would interfere with joining the frames. With that done, the front landing gear mount beam doublers were glued in place.
Next up, joining the frames. . . . . PAT |
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Joining the Fuselage Sides
The sides are joined starting at the front end. Stiffeners are glued in place on the formers which are then aligned and glued in place. Squaring blocks and a machinists square are used to insure proper alignment.
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Fitting the Aft Formers
The tail skid mount plate was pinned to the plan, then the aft section of the frame was pinned in place and glued to the mount plate. From there the remaining formers and cross pieces were aligned and glued in place and the stringers added. The tail post was glued in place and the far aft end. The stabilizer mount was then cut, bent, and glued in place. Then with all that done the back end was sanded to shape.
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Moving Back to the Front. . . . .
The motor mount and front cowl former was glued in place and the stringers added. As you can see from the previous photos, there were a couple of odd stringer notch locations, and there were a couple of minor glitches at the front as well, but the corrections have all been made and missing parts added now -- welcome to p-typing new designs. At this point, the fuselage frame is pretty well done.
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Installing the Servos and Elevator Cable Drive System
The rudder servo is mounted in the front cockpit and will drive the rudder with a simple pull/pull system directly from the servo output arm. The full scale BE2 incorporates a rudder bar that runs the cables externally, and as much as I would have like to set that up, it would have complicated things beyond practical, so here's one place we're going to "fake it".
The elevator, on the other hand, is set up with external control horns that will run the pull/pull system in the scale location. The control horns will be controlled by an internal control horn straight from the servo. Brass bushings were fitted into the mounts to insure a smooth non-binding operation. Now that everything is in and running about the only thing left is to get the landing gear and motor mounted, then get the top fuselage fairings in place. From there. it'll be on to the wings. . . . . PAT |
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Just watched a YT video of a replica BE-2 maiden flight. The guy flipping the huge 4-blade wood prop had to have guts, had to spin it clockwise, and get outta the way quickly. Two guys steadied the wings during taxiing and take off. Looks like a real floaty design.
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A 'little' while ago, my eldest son was about to be born, my son is now 47, so it might have been quite a while ago, I built and flew a Roy Scott Be2e, a great and majestic model in the air.
So I was sitting and twiddling my thumbs and remembered my Be2, looked round and found some 2mm Depron ........ It's only a tiny one, 25" span, and still hasn't flown. Elecy bits are all from a Parkzone Ultra Micro Su-26m including the 1s Lipo. total weight is 55grams. One day, (when it's very very calm)..... I still remember my Be2e. Ray |
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