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Old Jul 01, 2005, 09:05 AM
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Help!

Help needed with a smoked Hyperion emeter


I accidentally reversed polarity on the shunt with the result of a burned component inside the emeter. Is there anyone who recognize what kind of component it is (se attached picture). Please help, I just bought it a few days ago.
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Old Jul 01, 2005, 09:38 AM
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Bummer!

It may be some sort of diode to protect the batteries in case of reverse-voltage, but if it was it didn't work!

You'd think that they'd try to protect against reverse-voltage a bit better, it doesn't make sense...


edit: It looks like this component goes directly to the shunt connection. Does the eMeter still power-up?

Once you remove the device, check to see if there's voltage across the pads, that way you'll know it was part of the on-board power circuitry.
Last edited by meteor; Jul 01, 2005 at 09:52 AM. Reason: addition...
Old Jul 01, 2005, 11:40 AM
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It's alive?


The emeter is surprisingly working and identifying the shunt correctly but Iím not so sure about the readings on the MOTOR page when I test it. After taking a closer look where the component goes, it seams like it does go directly to the shunt (positive connector) and to RS+ on a MAX4081 which have something to do with the battery charger accordingly to this web page http://www.maxim-ic.com/view_press_release.cfm/release_id/706.

data sheet MAX4081
http://pdfserv.maxim-ic.com/en/ds/MAX4080-MAX4081.pdf
Old Jun 12, 2007, 10:48 AM
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draggng this thread up from the depths, I've done exactly the same thing. I plugged the battery into the load side (i was using adpaters for Deans Micro conenctors at the time) and on opening the case, the exact same component has a burn mark on it.

Did you manage to get it mended? Did you just replace the diode? If so, what type/value etc, and did the Emeter work properly again afterwards?

Cheers
Andy
Old Jan 28, 2008, 06:43 PM
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My turn... did the same damn stupid thing today. Looks like it reads voltage correctly but not current?
Old Jan 28, 2008, 08:59 PM
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bigandy was correct. It look like the device burned is a diode. Possiblly a schottky diode. Either way, you could replace that with schottky diode with the largest rating you can find. If you can still make out the printing on the diode, try to figure out which side has the white line.

Brian
Old Jan 28, 2008, 09:36 PM
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I remembered this evening that when I was helping my father get set up I made sure he bought an emeter as well. he's sending it to me, should have it in a day or two, I hopefully can figure out the details on the burned component. i'll post what I find.
Old Jan 29, 2008, 12:24 AM
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Where are you gettin a emeter? I have been looking for one too.
Old Jan 29, 2008, 12:40 AM
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he bought it about a year ago. far as I know there are none out there to buy new.

I want an Emeter2, damnit!
Old Feb 04, 2008, 05:38 PM
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update - I got my dad's Emeter today (delay on the shipping end )

The component is all black, with VERY faint lettering on it - "P2U"

using my multimeter, it shows a voltage of .615V with the negative lead on the battery side (bottom side, closer to batteries), so it's not a schottky, if I remember my electronics classes from long ago isn't that about right for a regular diode?
Old Feb 04, 2008, 11:24 PM
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You are right, it's a regular diode. Have you check diode with the test lead in reverse? It should not conduct at all.
Old Feb 05, 2008, 09:25 AM
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yep. 0.0 backwards.
Old Feb 05, 2008, 10:40 AM
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bsoder - do you need a surface mount diode? I can part with a couple if needed, just pay $0.50 for stamp/envelope. Otherwise you can use a through-hole type diode and bend the leads to fit.

Rick
Old Feb 05, 2008, 11:13 AM
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a regular through-hole type will fit fine, there's plenty of room. Any idea if what particular diode I use matters, as long as it's a regular silicon diode? ie. 4003/4004, whatever?
Old Feb 05, 2008, 04:52 PM
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Based on the voltage mesured, you should be fine with a regular silicon diode. Just be sure to get one with high enough amp rating. Of course, you gonna have to guess for that one.


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