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Apr 19, 2021, 01:36 PM
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Thread OP
So I made some repairs gooping the hinge and applying some tow and a lot of wet sanding. After seeing people polishing CA for pens I decided to see if I could use CA as a clear coat. Came out halfway decent. I could spend a lot more time on this but I'm calling it good enough.

I have also built the fuse and used the supplied g10 spacer which I thought was ok but strange given that the fuse should be setup for the standard kst/mks servos.

Also the guides for the servo push rods are very brittle at exit and they broke on me just taking off the clevis off the control horn. I hot glued one back in place for the longer run.

A few issues minor quibbles but nothing major fuse seems strong.
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Apr 19, 2021, 01:37 PM
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Here are some pics comparing to FS6. There's not much difference in maximum thickness at root but the Vantage is overall thinner and more narrow.

Overall kind of reminds me of pitbull.
Last edited by funkyfreestyler; Apr 19, 2021 at 06:28 PM.
Apr 21, 2021, 08:11 AM
Mario Perner
vanquish's Avatar
Hy!

The thickness of the VANTAGE Root Airfoil is 8.06%. The "Main Airfoil" has 7.86% and 7.57% on the outer wing. At the wingtip (last ~75mm) it has 6.15%.

Here a video in medium conditions:
Vantage 6ms 3 1kg Video 2 (1 min 17 sec)
Apr 21, 2021, 07:58 PM
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Nice, I will maiden mine tomorrow.
Apr 21, 2021, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vanquish
Hy!

The thickness of the VANTAGE Root Airfoil is 8.06%. The "Main Airfoil" has 7.86% and 7.57% on the outer wing. At the wingtip (last ~75mm) it has 6.15%.

Here a video in medium conditions: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6vj...qmXhA&index=11
Do you have basic settings for the glider?
Apr 22, 2021, 12:08 AM
Mario Perner
vanquish's Avatar

Vantage Setup


Hy,

Here you can find the basic setup, used in the two videos. Of course itīs individual, but itīs a save start
Center of Gravity: 98-100mm (measured from leading edge at wing root); some guys flying 96mm

Trim Positions
  • Thermal .... Flap: -4 ........... Aileron: flush to flap
  • Normal ...... Flap: 0 .............. Aileron: 0
  • Speed ......... Flap: +0.5 ....... Aileron: flush to flap
  • Butterfly ... Flap: -44 ......... Aileron: +13 ....... Elevator: -4


Deflections
  • Flaps: +7.5 / -5.5
  • Ailerons : +18 / -12
  • Elevator: +4.5 / -5
  • Rudder: +6 / -5

Snap Flap
  • Flaps: -6.5
  • Ailerons: flush to flap

Best regards,
Mario
Apr 22, 2021, 01:25 PM
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Thread OP
Thanks, I will put these settings on first page after I try them out as I tend to fly with most rates possible and tone things down after flick testing and trying to make the feel of roll rates similar to my other f3f models.
Apr 22, 2021, 01:31 PM
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So I applied acrylic poly urethane to the lead and it is pretty thin and works to cover the lead so I think this is not a bad solution but ultimately brass for lighter conditions would be better.

The steel joiner is well forward of the cg so I think it will be interesting to figure out how to keep cg in range. The steel joiner is 33oz
Apr 22, 2021, 08:07 PM
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So I did a brief maiden and about 5 min in had a real scary lockout, got control back and landed. Immediately flew my Matrix after and had zero issues so there's something about my radio/battery setup that is having an issue. It can turn very tightly. I need to adjust my elevator as it was pretty hot. Didn't really get to step on the gas pedal as I was still trimming it up.
Apr 22, 2021, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funkyfreestyler
So I did a brief maiden and about 5 min in had a real scary lockout, got control back and landed.
That is the stuff of nightmares. I'm totally new to this 2.4 gig stuff so this has my full attention.

I'm running a little behind you, Bob and crew of Soaring USA sent me an entire new set of wings, I was sorting out the servos today and one of them was DOA, ordered a fresh one and sent them a note and they threw an extra servo in gratis on the shipment today, now that is CS. Back in the day when I was the mule for scOOp and the Wizard Compacts if your stuff got crunched in shipping you would have had a wait and then some, I was only getting 5 planes a month and that was pretty much all he could make for us. We tried to hand deliver everything to avoid any issues.

The plane was unlikely to make it to the SLOT race on Sunday anyway, I was going to still show and man a turn for a while and see what an F3F comp looks like today, the rain we are going to get on Sunday looks like it's going to be another wash ( NPI ).
Apr 23, 2021, 07:23 PM
∑(No,12k,Lg,17Mif)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funkyfreestyler
The steel joiner is well forward of the cg so I think it will be interesting to figure out how to keep cg in range. The steel joiner is 33oz
I read others are making some of the nose weight removeable to accommodate the forward CG when the steel joiner is used.
Apr 23, 2021, 08:30 PM
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Thread OP
I installed new rx and routed my antennas differently and had zero radio issues.

I added some nose weight after my maiden after seeing how much downtrim I had unballasted in 20+ mph. I like my planes to maintain a 45 degree dive. After adding nose weight I definitely had less downtrim. Wind was around 23mph. Easy to see in white gray skies.

After a while I added the steel joiner just to see how it would feel. Definitely felt more nose heavy, was still turning reasonably well with 5mm of elevator. No flicking at full pulls, but being nose heavier made it feel as if the turns were less lively. I will need to double check my cg.

I am less into the idea of having to take the nose cone off to add nose weight during races. I need to do some cg checking with ballast and see how everything is but I would prefer to just add weight to rear ballast compartment.

It does seem to turn well and I really enjoyed doing more of a higher looping upturn with some rudder. I tried pylon turns, downturns, upturns that were more two parts (gradual up into the wind and harder yank) , upturns, and loopy upturns with more rudder. The last style for me is the most fun but not sure it's the fastest.

I am unsure about outright speed. The section feels lifty and perhaps I need to run in speed mode. As a general rule I am more in the camp that you leave it in section and add weight vs remove lift from the wing. It will require more testing and tuning before saying anything definitive but I'm hoping a good use case will present itself in the quiver of my competition gliders.

Tomorrow I will compare and contrast it to the Matrix and FS6 at a different venue where lift is less ample.
Apr 23, 2021, 09:51 PM
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Thread OP
Wow, that is kind of a fail. Putting in the steel joiner moves the cg from 96 to about 88. The extra nose weight I added also moved the cg considerably forward so I will take that out. I will need some lighter winds to test unballasted 10-15mph.

Adding ballast to rear compartment did not easily correct cg. Seems like only way to have consistent cg is have removeable nose weight as PDX recommended with steel joiner

For now I will stay at 96 as I will have to remove more lead from the supplied nose weight to shift cg further back.

I think the first recommendation is to use 18500 instead of 18650 for batteries as this will give you more room to add remove nose weight. I have almost no room with 18650 2 cell battery.

For now I will also not use steel joiner and focus on figuring out how much ballast fore and aft to maintain cg.
Apr 23, 2021, 10:25 PM
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Thread OP
Eureka! Lol, there's something actually cool about the ballast system. At 96mm, you can just use the rear compartment and load it up and your cg won't change or it will change very little change. A total of about (5oz x 16 pieces) 80oz of lead can be loaded in rear compartment so you are basically at FAI limit. It will likely never see this but good to know it's a pretty simple ballast setup.

Should be basically the same if you want to use the steel joiner once you remove nose weight.

Now I need to make some spacers.
Last edited by funkyfreestyler; Apr 23, 2021 at 10:30 PM.
Apr 23, 2021, 10:44 PM
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Looking forward to checking it out. Have fun!


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