Originally Posted by Mr. Wiz

Joe,

I bought 4 snipes over the years, all from Kennedy.

Mike,

My comment was meant to be light hearted kidding around. I know that you have flown Snipes in the past.

I gotcha’. No worries on this end. I hope my comment about the name didn’t offend either. We have one guy in our club that has 2 Yoda’s on order so I’m hoping to get a good look at one fairly soon.

Cheers
Mike

I’m reading this thread because I’m planning on picking up a Yoda in 2034.


Ryan

Originally Posted by rdwoebke

I’m reading this thread because I’m planning on picking up a Yoda in 2034.


Ryan

Got your Encore yet???

Originally Posted by Joe W

Got your Encore yet???

Kind of. I have an Adam Weston built encore wing on one of my fuselages.

Ryan

Originally Posted by rdwoebke

Kind of. I have an Adam Weston built encore wing on one of my fuselages.

Ryan

Nice! Adam does very good work. I was in Seattle for work when 9/11 happened (I was scheduled to give a presentation at a AIAA conference in Seattle, which I was VERY much not looking forward to doing, and a few hours prior to my scheduled presentation, the conference was cancelled due to "some people doing some things"). After a few days of hiding in my motel room, I contacted the local fliers and ended up borrowing Adam Weston's dlg and headed out to 60 acres to have a fun day of flying. It worked well as he is also a lefty... I wish that I had his launch power.

Hi Joe, do you still use reverse differential on Yoda ? the CG range seams large, what's yours ?

thanks

Originally Posted by nik_44fr

Hi Joe, do you still use reverse differential on Yoda ? the CG range seams large, what's yours ?

thanks

For differential, I am using near zero physical differential on the flaps, and a moderately large positive differential on the ailerons.

As for CG, I have heard one pilot that is using 65 mm. This is similar to flying Snipe forward of 60 mm... The rest of the pilots that have provided cg positions are tightly clustered around 72-73mm.

The cg location is an individual thing. There is now single absolute best answer. For me, Snipe is happy in the area of 67mm, and Yoda around 72-73mm.

Originally Posted by Joe W

For differential, I am using near zero physical differential on the flaps, and a moderately large positive differential on the ailerons.

As for CG, I have heard one pilot that is using 65 mm. This is similar to flying Snipe forward of 60 mm... The rest of the pilots that have provided cg positions are tightly clustered around 72-73mm.

The cg location is an individual thing. There is now single absolute best answer. For me, Snipe is happy in the area of 67mm, and Yoda around 72-73mm.

Thanks
My snipes are next to your CG ,I guess same issues give a similar answer 😂

For the differential I will test to see benefits of each solution
Thanks Joe 🍻

Question: Did you ever find out the wire routing in the wing?

Hi Joe, I'm ready to make a Snip. Do you any advice about cutting the spar caps/web?

Originally Posted by flyinghedgehogs

Question: Did you ever find out the wire routing in the wing?

The wire routing appears to be aft of the spar until near the center, where the wires come together and are routed forward through the shear web, with appropriate reinforcement.

Originally Posted by TomK

Hi Joe, I'm ready to make a Snip. Do you any advice about cutting the spar caps/web?

Measure three times, cut once...

There is some annoyance in the measuring, in that the hinge line is swept forward on Snipe. You want to have the polyhedral break perpendicular to the fuselage centerline. I put my wing on some cardboard, and marked the trailing edge with one wing side on the cardboard, then marked the trailing edge with the other wing down. Put a mark where the center is... and also put a mark at the 50% span location for the flaperon (that is where I put the polyhedral break for my Snip). Take a meter stick and place is so that it is tangent at the wing centerline, and equidistant from the 50% span point on either side. Draw a line on the cardboard with the meter stick, this line will be perpendicular to the fuselage centerline. Use a 90 deg angle to get the cut angle correct.

I used a piece of semi-flexible plastic to be my straight edge on the wing once I marked the wing. For most of the skin, a thin blade box cutting knife or xacto knife can be used. For the spar, you can use a xacto razor saw to help get through the spar caps (and through the closeout material forward and aft of the hinge line). I actually only used the knife, with some patience required when cutting through the spar cap. The web cuts easily. Be careful to do a vertical cut!

I know of three different ways to make the servo wire hole. Coincidentally, I know of three different people that have made Snips... I used 3 mm aluminium tube with a sharpened edge to drill my servo wire hole. The was the same process that I used way back when to drill wire holes for vacuum bagged wings 30 years ago. It is a bit tedious as one needs to pull out the tube and push out the foam bit every 15-25 mm of progress. If you go to far, then the foam gets clogged in the tube and the foam starts tearing inside the wing. Avoid this if possible. Vladimir used a drill, a custom made very long drill. Kevin used a hot wire rod. For the latter, be careful as I think that melting rohacell may produce toxic fumes.

I sorted out the servo box and installed the wires prior to joining the wingtips onto the center panel. After the tip panels were attached, I installed the servos in the wing. To pull the servo wires through the hole, I taped the end of the wire to a thin piano wire. Well, first I cut an access hole where hopefully the two servo wire holes meet at centerline. I ended up 1-2 mm off from perfect alignment, plenty close in my opinion!

I did add a bit of material on the upper skin where the servo hole is, as the skin material is paper thin there. I didn't use much material for the joint, just light vlad carboweave on the joint, and some carbon uni over the spar caps.

While I gather up materials in advance of my Yoda's arrival, can anyone offer suggestions on battery for the Yoda? Sounds like Joe is using a 1s, the instructions call for 2S (perhaps for the load of 6 servos) that has been split apart. With a max dimension of 40mm x 16.5mm x 6.3mm. Been looking around to find a solution so if anyone can share what works for them please share.

Originally Posted by tomkelley

While I gather up materials in advance of my Yoda's arrival, can anyone offer suggestions on battery for the Yoda? Sounds like Joe is using a 1s, the instructions call for 2S (perhaps for the load of 6 servos) that has been split apart. With a max dimension of 40mm x 16.5mm x 6.3mm. Been looking around to find a solution so if anyone can share what works for them please share.

The instructions show two 1s batteries. The question is: Are they wired as 2S or 2P? Could go either way.

Jerry