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Feb 23, 2021, 10:04 PM
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Mini-Review

Dynam Cessna 310 Grand Cruiser 1280mm Wingspan - V2 - PNP


Dynam Cessna 310 Grand Cruiser 1280mm Wingspan - V2 - PNP

Dynam Cessna 310 Grand Cruiser 1280mm WingspanI wanted to try a twin engine airplane and the Dynam Cessna 310 Grand Cruiser looked like a good buy when it was on sale for $169US at Bitgo Hobby. I don't really need another plane, but it was nice having one to build during our recent extreme weather, I think I am addicted to building and modding them, and I got really bored the last couple of days of the bad weather after I finished my last build.

I ordered on 2/16/2021 and the next day the tracking at Fedex said delivery would be on Saturday, 2/20/2021. I did not believe it would happen, and I was right. On Saturday, the delivery date was changed to Monday, 2/22/2021. On Monday, at 7pm the package was still not here, so I checked tracking and the delivery date had been changed to Tuesday, 2/23/2021, delay due to weather related problems. Weather on Monday was clear, 70'F, with moderate winds? Tuesday the plane was delivered just before 10am. I asked the driver what the weather delay was about and he said he was sent down a dirt road. Should have asked him if he got stuck.

Unpacked the plane, and everything looked good and straight. Flaps and retracts are installed. But there is something different I certainly wasn't expecting, the plane is mostly silver with red trim. I went through all of the attachments in the main thread, and the only red C310s were painted by the owners. I do not like red, but will probably leave it like it is, too much trouble to change the color, and it looks like a decent paint job. I had planned to put blue vinyl on a white plane for trim, but unless I covered all the red, that would not work well. The decals are the blue ones so don't know about putting them on either. I later looked at the outside box and it actually said the plane is red, though there is not indication on the display box that it is red.

Flaps, retracts, and LEDs are already mounted on this model, and there is a wiring harness for the LEDs. On the box and in the ad, it says it has 40 amp escs, in the description it says 30A ESC, but this plane came with 50 amp escs. There is a date label on the display box with 12/04/2020 printed on it, the outside shipping box has a 12/05/2020 sticker on it. The props are not labeled but appear to be 8 x 6 x 3 blade, and I noticed they are counter rotating. First I have heard of counter rotating props on this plane, I thought it came with both props rotating the same direction. I went and did a search in the main C310 thread and apparently the counter rotating props came near the end of 2017 or in 2018. Here are my photos of the parts as they came out of the box:
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Description:

This is the first Big Size Cessna 310 Grand Cruiser Twin Motor airplanes made by the hard material EPO in the market. The airplane has very nice Scale-Look and details. It has two preinstalled powerful brushless motor and 3-Blad Prop. All servos, Receiver and ESC are preinstalled already. In addition, the model is equipped with the electric retract. The V2 version include flaps and new TomCat Skylord 30A ESC, which bring more power and controllability to this great airplane.

Specifications:

Material: EPO Foam
Wing Span: 1280mm(50.4in)
Flying Weight: 1200g
Wing Loading: 58g/dmē
Fuselage Length: 1100mm(43.3in)
Center of Gravity: 55 - 65mm from the leading edge at the wing root
Motor: BM2815A-KV1100 Brushless Outrunner,2pcs
ESC: 40A ESC with UBEC*2pcs(actually 50A ESC)
Propeller: 3-Blade Prop(8 x 6 x 3 counter rotating)
Servo: 9g*6pcs
Elevator: Yes
Rudder: Yes
Ailerons: Yes
Flaps: Yes
Landing Gear: E retract
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Feb 23, 2021, 10:05 PM
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Here are some tips I gleaned from the main thread:

You need to sink the motors.....put your transmitter on full throttle before you turn it on..{follow ps note}, when you hear the first beeps pull the throttle down right away.If you wait too long it enters the program mode for brake, This sinks the motors together and both should start at the same time now....old trick dont ask me why it works on both at the same time but it does...
^ and do each esc on an individual basis as well. They can be plugged into power at the same time but when programming you must only have 1 plugged into the RX at a time.

ESC's need to be sync'd to your throttle travel. (one is O.K., other is not)Turn every thing off.
Turn x-mitter on...throttle full "on"
Plug LiPo in
Wait for 'Beep'
Move throttle to "off"
Hear more beeps.
Unplug LiPo
Plug LiPo back in (throttle at off")
Hold plane...test....should now be in sync!

page 13, post 191 !!WARNING!! ESC Programming

page 326 post 48885 Dynam esc programming

NOTE: I had one motor that was out of sinc with the other, and tried the above mentioned methods to fix it. I could not get them to work together. Maybe because my escs are Skylord?

Weight, dry: 1208 grams
Battery: 195 grams
Total: 1413 grams (49.5 oz.)

Originally Posted by Tom.MotionRC
Yes, we will be re-writing instructions for all new planes so they will be improved!
In addition to heavy involvement with the P-61, we've worked with Dynam to change motors, ESC, and retracts. When I say improve, I mean improve. The motors are now completely different with high quality Japanese bearings. These motors are very good. The ESC are also completely new. They have nothing in common with the old ESC which had some issues. We spent loads of time on the retracts. The retracts will look the same from the outside since they have the same outside casing but we sat down with the Dynam engineers and redesigned the guts of the retract inside. All planes in the Dynam line will benefit from the new motors, ESC, and retracts. These new electronics will of course be used in the P-61 and they were also used in the just released Dynam B-26. Note, we designed the B-26 prop to fit other planes from other brands too so you can buy one replacement prop and use it on many planes.

page 313 post #4690 bec info and installation

Here is a short thread discussion about counter rotating props: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...tion-direction

Guys, I mainded my V2 last Saturday. I had everything working in my 70 degree temp home. Once I got outside and started the preflight check in 40 degree weather the mains would not come down. Nose gear is fine but no mains. I went into my travel adjust for the gear and with the gear switch down and only the nose gear extended, I dialed back the travel till both mains came down. I ended up at 80% for the gear down function. No more problems and it is reliable every time. Weird but works and it keeps you from having to take your plane apart or buy new stuff.

A few tips from me:

Wait to install the elevator and rudder control horns if you plan on using the provided ez-connectors. Put the ez-connectors in place on the control horns first, then install the vertical and horizontal stabs, then install the control horns. Unless you want the difficulty of installing that tiny nut in a very limited space.

If you take the windows out for tinting, leave them out until the plane is assembled so that you can access inside to adjust the wires while mounting the wing to the fuselage.

The wheels on this new grand cruiser version are 1.75 inch diameter. You can increase that size to 2 inch with no modification. If you go to 2.25 inch, you might need to trim just a little foam, but it will work.

There are what appears to be about 3mm x5mm fiberglass wing spars imbedded in the wing from the fuselage out to near the wing tips. There is also a spar that goes across the midlle to about 2 inches past the wing spars. I don't know if those spars were present in the earlier models, up to at least 2012 posters were posting about wing breakage in flight and adding their own spars. I also used 3mm carbon fiber rods as spars and dowels to attach the wing tip tanks.

I have a 2200mah battery that is 105 x 33.7 x 23.5 mms that is an easy fit in the stock battery bay because of length. I also found a 2800mah 30C battery that is 111 x 35 x 26 mms that will fit very snuggly. It fits because the wires do not protrude from the end as much as go out sideways from the end. You could probably add just a few mms to the width and depth of the battery. You might be able to fit a longer battery if you trim the upper foam battery stop behind the front windscreen.

I drilled a hole and added a short screw to the tab used for releasing the battery bay door.

Thes are tips I have come up with to date - 3/09/2021
Last edited by siriusflier; Mar 14, 2021 at 11:07 PM.
Feb 23, 2021, 10:05 PM
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Build and Modifications

A few things I noticed in inspecting the plane - The escs are covered with removable foam that is held in place with magnets. The struts for the wheels are 3mm diameter wire, a little larger than the wire used on other Dynam planes I have. There is room in all of the retract wheel wells for at least 2 inch tires, the stock foam wheels are 1.75 inch, but since I already had a 1.75 inch Dubro low bounce tire, I ordered 2 more 1.75 inch tires for this plane. Not sure if you could use wheels that were much wider than 19mm because of the length of the axles. Stock wheels are about 16mm wide. I was thinking about getting some two blade props and spinners because I don't really like 3 blade props and don't want to order more Dynam props. Noticed that since they went to counter rotating props, the spinners do not have opposite prop openings, just one spinner will work with either prop.
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the first thing I did was start mounting magnets to hold the cowls in place. I made sure I lined up the magnets right so that the cowls will be inter changeable. Just waiting for the epoxy that holds the magnets to the wings to cure. I rub the magnets first on a file to take the chrome off the side that will be glued.
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I ordered some black window tint, so I removed all of the windscreens. Every one of them had some paint overspray on the inside, and some had some glue on the outside, but all that cleans off with rubbing alcohol.
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There is a spar imbedded in the main wing, and holding it up to a strong light, it looks like it might go all the way out to near where the wing tips attach. could not see through in the middle of the wings. There are slots where you can look or probe down in the wing to see, feel the spar. I plan to add carbon fiber spars to better secure the wing tips. The horizontal stab also has a spar in it, but the spar only goes out about 50mm past the last slot, shown in my photo as where the ruler goes across.
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2/25/2021 I had noticed this center wing spar before but forgot about it when I posted about the wing spars yesterday, so here is a photo:
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Last edited by siriusflier; Feb 25, 2021 at 06:34 PM.
Feb 25, 2021, 06:40 PM
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I had decided to put some spars in the wing tips and then into the tip tanks and worked on that some today. Here is a photo:
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The plane only comes with wing tip and tail fin LEDs already installed, and there are two extra plugs for more LEDs, so I installed some landing lights on the lower leading edge of the wings near the middle.
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Feb 27, 2021, 09:52 PM
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First a bit of a rant about horizon hobby. I ordered a can of spray window tint on Tuesday and as of today it did not show as shipped. The same day I placed an order for props and low bounce wheels from MotionRC, and tracking shows it will be delivered Monday, 3/01/2021. Same day order from Value Hobby for a replacement motor shows delivery on Monday also. What is wrong with horizon hobby??

I had some Oracal blue vinyl I had planned to use on this plane, but they sent me a red and silver plane. So I decided to get some red vinyl to put on the leading edges of the main wing and on the wing tanks, I may add some to the nose also. Vinyl is partially for looks, but also for reinforcement. I like the way it worked on my recently built Dynam SR22, my first attempt at using vinyl on a plane.

I found some permanent vinyl at my local Walmart, Cricut was the brand, for $8.94 for a 12' x 48" roll, but they did not have the red I wanted. Michaels has Oracal and Hobby Lobby has The paper studio brand which is on sale for 50% off or $3.99 a roll. So I drove the 50 miles to Hobby Lobby today and bought two rolls, red and silver. The red matches almost perfectly.

So today I put a coat of Minwax polyacrilic on all of the planes painted foam. Then I cut a piece of the red vinyl and covered the bottom of one wing tank. It is hard to fit the vinyl to a compound curve like the wing tank, but I don't think it looks too bad.
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Feb 28, 2021, 12:46 PM
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My rant about Horizon Hobby yesterday was premature. Never had a tracking number, but the package actually showed up on my steps this morning? USPS postage on it and the USPS does not deliver here on Sundays, so I can only guess that the package was dropped off at a neighbor's house yesterday, and that neighbor was nice enough to bring it to me today?

I added some more vinyl this morning, to the rudder, the rounds behind the wings, the right wing tank, and the leading edge of the horizontal stabilizer. I used the vinyl like hinge tape on the rudder. If you look at the rudder in the picture, you can barely see the vinyl, shows how close a match the vinyl is to the red paint the plane came with.
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Feb 28, 2021, 09:28 PM
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I added vinyl to the leading edge of the main wings and started on vinyl added to the top of the fuselage nose, still have some work left on the nose, but I think I am about finished on the wing. I often added hinge tape to the leading edge of the wings on planes, vinyl should add even a little more protection. The vinyl also covers the wire channel. I also painted the black of the servos with silver paint.
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Mar 01, 2021, 09:14 PM
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I got the vinyl applied to the top of the nose. much harder to do than the wings or even the wing tanks because it is a larger surface with even more compound curves. I used a piece of copy paper to make a pattern and it helped. Still didn't line it up perfectly and ended up with wrinkles that I worked out the best I could. Looks good from a distance and should strengthen nose a bit, but up close the flaws are very noticeable.
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Almost done with all the vinyl wrap and painting touch ups, just need to add a little Minwax clear coat.
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Mar 02, 2021, 10:42 PM
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I am reading the main thread, not all in order. I have read from page 300 to the end and am just past page 100 from the start. Right after page 100(early 2012) there was a big discussion about reinforcing the main wing, especially across the middle. Some said it was not needed if you fly scale, others said it is needed, especially if you fly fast and do aerobatics. I may never do much aerobatics with this plane, I have P51s I can do that with, but it got me curious. So I went to look at the wing spars that are in this newer version I have. I was wondering how far the main wing spars went towards the middle, and if the esc covers are taken off, they are visible going almost into the fuselage. Then the center spar extends through the middle and a little over two inches past the main wing spar. Hard to see the wing spar down in the wire channel, but I put a black mark on the left one before I took the picture. The spa ends are right next to the lower magnet in the photo. I don't think I will be adding more spars.
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Mar 03, 2021, 10:08 PM
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Windy today, so no flying. Worked on the C310 and am getting close to final assembly. I decided to try my only spare 8 channel receiver, a Detrum SR86A. I guess a 6 channel receiver could be used if the LEDs are either not plugged in or plugged in with another component. But the LEDs actually are fairly bright and work.

So while I had everything plugged in to check, I cycled the landing gear and the flaps several times. they seem to work well. Also partially set up the radio and set the flap positions. Then I left the gear in down position so I could change out the wheels. I put Dubro Low Bounce 1.75 inch wheels on it because I already had one in that size. I think I could easily put two inch wheels on it. The low bounce wheels sound good, but they weigh about 3 times as much as the stock foam wheels. That caused a major crash with my Aeroscout yesterday, even though the COG didn't seem to have changed. I should be able to test the low bounce wheels on another plane before I get around to flying this one.

I found that the center flap hinge on the left wing had broke loose, so I epoxied it back in place and added epoxy to all of the hinges and the control horns. I have tinted all of the windows, but got a run in every one of them, so I might try to do a better job. then I have to reinstall all of them. After that, final assembly.
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Mar 05, 2021, 10:46 PM
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Worked at my part time job almost all day long for the last couple of days, so I haven't been able to do much with the C310. I did take all of the tint off of the front windscreen and re-tinted it. It is an improvement but still not all that great, especially up close.
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I got some two blade prop spinners and am cutting them so my two blade APC electric 9045 props will fit, using the Value Hobby Gforce E450 motors. VH says that motor is more powerful than an EFlite Park-450. It is a 2835 1160kv motor and has a 5mm shaft prop adapter. http://www.valuehobby.com/power-syst...0kv-motor.html . Those motors should be drop in replacements. I have also dug around and found some 8 and 9 inch props to use with the VH motors besides the APC 9045s..
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Mar 06, 2021, 02:14 PM
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Glad to know about the red/silver paint job. Bitgo Hobby was one of my reserve go-to's if I didn't get the 310 I ordered from another online Hobby Shop. I am currently waiting for mine to get here, and praying it's white, but even if it is, I plan to do the sealer/filler thing with the foam, hardening the surface with Mod podge, then painting the whole thing a gloss white, with Pacific blue metallic accents, and a clear coat or six.

I have questions about the landing gear. Here in Colorado, the temps are often below 45F and I've seen numerous complaints about the gear not coming down or just one, (and see the same complaints on the Dynam Cessna 550 Citation). I also have a lot of lumpy bumpy surfaces to land on here (maybe skis? LOL) So I'm planning already to replace the main retracts with something a little beefier, with an actual suspension (spring shock/trailing link) and soft rubber tires. Does anyone know what brand/model number retracts I should order for it, and where to get them? Thanks in advance.

Also if you still have the home-smoked blisters, and they are removable, and they can be cleaned off back to clear, I suspect mine will be coming in with the light smoked factory blisters, and would be happy to swap (I think)
Mar 06, 2021, 04:01 PM
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What online Hobby shop did you order from?

Post #22 from yesterday says they have solved the landing gear problem: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...BNP-SRTF/page2 I don't know anything about other retracts and am just hoping mine work as they should..

I think chances are that your blisters will be clear, I think when I ordered from Bitgo, the ad photos showed tinted windows. But I haven't installed my blisters yet, so let me know. The black tint can be cleaned off with rubbing alcohol.
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Mar 07, 2021, 09:27 PM
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Have actually spent a lot of time the last couple of days working on little things like the spinners for the Gforce motor and the APC E props. Those props have a large diameter hub, and I was having a lot of trouble getting the spinner cap to fit over that hub until I finally figured out that the inside of the channel for the spinner screws was hitting that hub. Then it took me about 20 minutes to finish getting the spinners to fit. I used 38mm spinners, if I had to do it over, I would get 45mm spinners. The Gforce motor only looks larger than the stock motor because it is closer to the camera, the two motors are almost identical in size, but the Gforce motor has 5mm prop shaft.
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These are the9 inch props I have with counter rotating pairs. The gray ones are 9047s. I also have some 8 inch props I could use.
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I had put Dubro 1.75 inch low bounce wheels on the plane, but the Dubro low bounce I put on my Aeroscout caused me to crash it because they are so heavy. The 1.75s weigh about 3 times as much as the stock wheels at around 5 grams. I had some extra 2 inch foam wheels, the weigh less than 6 grams, so I put them on instead. You can see the 2 ichers fit easily, I think you could easily put on 2.25 inch wheels, but you might have to trim some foam for the nose wheel.
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Had a very hard time getting the wing mounted to the fuselage because of all the wires. Used 4 velcro straps and a tooth pick to bundle the wires and hold them out of the way on the wing. I had mounted the rx on the inside center of the wing.

Then I had a hard time getting the quick/easy push rod connector in place, that tiny nut was really hard to get started on the elevator push rod. Rudder push rod will not be that much easier. Hope I never have to do it again. If you plan on using those tiny ez connectors, I would put them on the control horn before gluing the control horn in place. Notice when they were painting the plane red they also painted the push rods.
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I am glad I had not put the windscreens back in when I did the wiring and put the wing in place. Still have to reinstall the windscreens, connect the rudder servo, and do some fine turning in the transmitter to finish set up of this plane.
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Mar 08, 2021, 03:13 PM
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I had the plane together except for the windscreens, and plugged it in to connect the rudder and elevator this morning. First I noticed that the ailerons were not centering and I could not seem to get the rudder centered. This was happening when I would put the plane in stabilization mode. Then I went in the transmitter to check the gyro settings, and the radio showed a message saying it could not connect with the gyro. I also could not adjust the aileron trim. This is a nearly brand new receiver that I had only tried twice before. I had problems with it that time also. So I decided I will trash this receiver, and I have another 8 channel receiver to try. So I took the wing back off, unplugged everything, and removed that receiver.

What a mess of wires! I have decided while I have it apart, I will shorten at least all of the Y connectors to reduce the wire volume, as much as I hate soldering small wires.
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