Originally Posted by beazld

Being your first CL plane be sure that the elevator hinges are loosy-goosy. This isn’t an RC job. Your elevator should flop down with no pressure on the bellcrank. Like to use old time fabric hinges or pin type hinges in my CL control surfaces. I find CA hinges too stiff for CL planes. Just my $0.02 but others may chime in.

Really appreciate the feedback as I'm lacking the C/L experience....

Working on the trailing edge by gluing the ribs to the 1/16" x 1-1/4" x 40" balsa sheet, then added 1/8" x 5/16" balsa webbing to the TE. Will help strengthen the wing when "grabbing" it in and out of the circle.....

Before gluing the top TE balsa sheet, I hit all the joints with Medium CA, I'll do the same with the rest of the wing after finishing up the leading edge.

Also, added that extra R2 rib to the outboard side.

Another typical Ringmaster build error. You do not need more than 1" of elevator up and down deflection.

Originally Posted by floydcarter

Another typical Ringmaster build error. You do not need more than 1" of elevator up and down deflection.

Thanks, I hear the Ringmaster can be sensitive....

Finished the trailing edge with the two triangle pieces.

Installed the 1/2" x 1/2" hard wood for the leading edge as well as the remaining R1B and R1D center half ribs plus the braces W1 and W2.

Your assembly looks clean and neat. You are doing a good job. What size bell crank are you planning on using? Does the kit provide a weight box for the outboard wing?.......Gene

Originally Posted by gene6029

Your assembly looks clean and neat. You are doing a good job. What size bell crank are you planning on using? Does the kit provide a weight box for the outboard wing?.......Gene

The kit doesn't provide a weight box for the outboard wing however; the kit includes hardware so, I have a 3 - 5/16" bellcrank.

Thats the size i have in mine (3"). I installed a weight box and adjustable leadouts too....Gene

Originally Posted by gene6029

Thats the size i have in mine (3"). I installed a weight box and adjustable leadouts too....Gene

Four others bought this kit and I'm getting feedback from one. He just did a mock up to establish weight needed for the CG.

He has 1 oz weight on the outboard wing back at the trailing edge.
Added 4 oz weight at the center rib back at the trailing edge.
He anticipates 2 oz lead on each side of the fuse back at the trailing edge, hidden by the 1/16 planking in the center of the wing.
Then the 2200 battery was pushed back in the bird house to help with the CG test.
He noted to beef up the planking to hold the lead.
I appreciate the feedback!!

It will be a real porker if you add that much lead. I’d suggest not guessing at the CG and wait until your all finished. If you need tail weight start by adding a tail wheel. If you still need more then a little bit of lead in the fuse at the very back under the horizontal stab. Never heard of anyone adding weight at the wing trailing edge before.

Paul

Absolutely no need for that extra weight near the fuselage, the only extra weight you need is in the outer wing tip.......to balance the weight of the lines.....

I believe there is enough forward/backward movement in the battery compartment to use it for nose/tail balance.......

I would really like to know his thinking on that extra weight, in 60 years of building control line planes, I have never heard of anybody doing that......

HaHa, looks like Paul and I were typing at the same time.....

Originally Posted by BWA

Absolutely no need for that extra weight near the fuselage, the only extra weight you need is in the outer wing tip.......to balance the weight of the lines.....
I believe there is enough forward/backward movement in the battery compartment to use it for nose/tail balance.......
I would really like to know his thinking on that extra weight, in 60 years of building control line planes, I have never heard of anybody doing that......
HaHa, looks like Paul and I were typing at the same time.....

Although new to it all building and flying C/L. After years of flying, could it be a personal preference for a level take off and landing......

Added a bit more to the Bellcrank plate and using birch instead, as well as 1/4"x1/4" hardwood supports. This way the glued plate will grab the forward ply spar, R2 and R1 ribs......

As others have allready said, weight in the outermost wing tip,( possibly 3/4oz), and the only other place you might need weight would be at the extreme tail end of the fuse to get your CG correct. The lighter you can keep your Ringmaster, the better it will fly. ....Gene

Originally Posted by gene6029

As others have allready said, weight in the outermost wing tip,( possibly 3/4oz), and the only other place you might need weight would be at the extreme tail end of the fuse to get your CG correct. The lighter you can keep your Ringmaster, the better it will fly. ....Gene

That's what I was thinking, the wing tip with 1/2 to 3/4oz and the tail if needed and I like the tail wheel idea, if weight is needed. Also; battery box should help as well.