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Jul 18, 2011, 12:38 PM
In the 20' glider range
anti-gravity's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by tripleup05 View Post
Hance,

What ESC are you using with the 2730-3000kv?
Turnigy basic 18amp

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=2168
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Jul 18, 2011, 02:51 PM
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tripleup05's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by anti-gravity View Post
I think it was this thread where I asked awhile back about ESC/Motor/Prop selection. I am still confounded by it. Hance says he is pulling 20amps, but you suggest an 18amp ESC. I am not in any way saying you are wrong in the suggestion...I just don't understand how an 18amp ESC would work on something pulling 20amps.

Also, I was looking over the spec's on the Turnigy 2730 on HK's website, and it says Battery Type: 2S only. But Hance says he runs it on a 3S 460mah. This doesn't hurt the motor?
Jul 18, 2011, 06:40 PM
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boingk's Avatar
The Turnigy 2730 3000kv outrunners are brilliant motors fitted with a well-balanced 4.75x4.75 - I have one in my parkjet and its a screamer for sure. Ignore the ratings of '2-cell only' as this is a blast on 3-cell operation. For example, check this out:

The Wicked Little Babyshark Depron foamie RC micro speed plane (3 min 17 sec)


That is the Babyshark by NanoPlanes.net which uses a 1000mAh 3-cell, 30A ESC and motor/prop combo as mentioned above. Does it look like fun to you?

I would suggest a 20A ESC as thats the minimum I've been able to use with that power combo. With plenty of airflow as in this design I don't think cooling will be a problem. Quality brands such as Turnigy Plus ESC's are often underrated and can handle higher loads more consistently. I tend to favour the dirt-cheap HobbyKing brand ESC's and also their 'Blue Series' line of rebranded Mystery ESC's. Guess which one I won't think about testing the limits of!

Cheers - boingk

EDIT: If you're after performance thats a bit less extreme, try the GWS 4.5x4 prop with that motor. It will still give a 105mph pitch speed (versus the 4.75's 120) but will only draw 15~16 amps.
Jul 18, 2011, 10:27 PM
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tripleup05's Avatar
Good grannies boingk! That Babyshark is INSANE!!!! How fast do you reckon that is?

And to answer your question, no, that doesn't look like fun to me lol. Too fast! If the AR will fly anywhere near that fast...well then...maybe that ain't the motor for me!
Jul 18, 2011, 10:50 PM
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boingk's Avatar
Personally I'd say use the motor and only use a GWS 4.5x4 prop. You will get flying fast but not as fast as the 4.75. Also, you could run 2s instead of 3s for slower flight. Trust me, having motor in reserve for fast flying isn't a bad thing! If you want to go faster later then you can always prop up and/or put on a battery with an extra cell.

Cheers - boingk
Jul 18, 2011, 10:51 PM
Expo is built into my thumbs
Hance's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by tripleup05 View Post
Good grannies boingk! That Babyshark is INSANE!!!! How fast do you reckon that is?

And to answer your question, no, that doesn't look like fun to me lol. Too fast! If the AR will fly anywhere near that fast...well then...maybe that ain't the motor for me!
The AR with a 2730 3000kv has to be pushing 80 MPH. If your not a speed guy either prop it down say a 4X4 or keep your thumb out of the throttle. With the 4.75X4.75 on mine it cooks. Its small, fast and profiles out on you so you just have to trust your self and wait for it to show up again once in awhile. I fly with big throws, no dual rates and no expo and my AR has scared the pants off almost everyone that has flown it.

I'm not trying to scare you I just don't want you to be disappointed when it ends up being to faster than you are comfortable with.

As far as my setup goes I am running a Turnigy Plush 18 amp speed controller. With the speed controller out in the open with high speed wind blowing over it cooling isn't an issue at all. I fly mine basically full throttle for three minutes and have to land because the battery is dead. The same goes for the motor. Hobbyking lists it using a 6X3 or a 5X3 prop on 2s. Propped down to 4.75 on 3s with massive air being rammed through the motor it comes down cool to the touch. I have a ton of flights on mine and its still going strong. Even if it does die which I highly doubt I am only out 9 bucks.
Jul 18, 2011, 11:06 PM
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tripleup05's Avatar
How about a GWS 4040? Would that work?

Edit: Oops should have checked for replies before posting this question! Thank you very much for the info you have provided throughout this thread, Hance!
Jul 18, 2011, 11:59 PM
In the 20' glider range
anti-gravity's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by tripleup05 View Post
I think it was this thread where I asked awhile back about ESC/Motor/Prop selection. I am still confounded by it. Hance says he is pulling 20amps, but you suggest an 18amp ESC. I am not in any way saying you are wrong in the suggestion...I just don't understand how an 18amp ESC would work on something pulling 20amps.

Also, I was looking over the spec's on the Turnigy 2730 on HK's website, and it says Battery Type: 2S only. But Hance says he runs it on a 3S 460mah. This doesn't hurt the motor?
anytime
Jul 19, 2011, 09:33 PM
Registered User
Murman's Avatar
I've used the 2730 3000kv with 3s and a 4.5x4.5 prop without any problems. I'm really disappointed with the performance of the Feigao 4100kv inrunner on my AR so I think I will try the 2730 as soon as I get some time to swap motors.
Jul 19, 2011, 09:36 PM
Expo is built into my thumbs
Hance's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murman View Post
I've used the 2730 3000kv with 3s and a 4.5x4.5 prop without any problems. I'm really disappointed with the performance of the Feigao 4100kv inrunner on my AR so I think I will try the 2730 as soon as I get some time to swap motors.
If you're disappointed with performance of the 2730 3000kv with a 4.75X4.75 on 3s you're either psychotic or have the words fastest reflexes
Jul 19, 2011, 10:53 PM
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tripleup05's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murman View Post
I've used the 2730 3000kv with 3s and a 4.5x4.5 prop without any problems. I'm really disappointed with the performance of the Feigao 4100kv inrunner on my AR so I think I will try the 2730 as soon as I get some time to swap motors.
What do you plan to do about the heat sink epoxied onto the fuse? I don't think there is any way mine is coming off. Hopefully the wings and tail will de-bond easily enough for me to remove them and transfer to a new fuse without damage.
Jul 20, 2011, 09:06 AM
Registered User
boingk's Avatar
See if you can pry it off so the 'C' shape opens up. Use pliers and an old screwdriver or something along those lines. It'll be a lot easier than trying to simply pull it off.

Cheers - boingk
Jul 20, 2011, 12:31 PM
Registered Aircraft Offender
Truglodite's Avatar
Hi fellas, I just wanted to pop in and say how well the Turnigy 1230 4200Kv motor has been working for me. I'm running it with a rhino 3s360, 3020hd, and Plush 6 esc, and it is noticeable faster than the Feigao 4100 (with either 3030hd or 3020hd). The Turnigy lands no hotter than 145F (WOT whole pack in 100F heat), and keeps up with my buddies Neu Proton 5300/2s460/3030hd powered AR (~60mph). His Proton landed 180F+ a couple weeks ago; he's going to have to prop down to 3020. Anyhow, if you're after an agile "short course" AR to burn up a basket ball court at 5' altitude, IMHO that TGY1230 is the cat's meow; probably cheap enough for most cats to give it a lick. Of course, for 100mph+ "Hail Mary" speed passes and more space shuttle like agility, the ole' 25A 2730 setup is the candle you want.

triple, FYI, to get a pair of hxt500's to work (and most pairs of similar height servos... d47's are an exception with their low profile top), you have to bend a jog in that left aileron control rod to clear the elevator linkage (a hat shaped bend). I am normally allergic to putting these kinds of bends in my linkages because they add flex (softens the controls). In this case the linkage remained stiff enough even with the jog bent in to it; wasted a few pieces of wire trying to get it perfect, but that holds true with any z-bend, right?

Regarding removing the heatsink... I used to have to do a similar procedure when I had to remove the tail motor mounts on my micro helicopters. Basically, split the mount in 2 peices along it's length (so the "C shape" doesn't "wrap" more than half the tube). Now very gently score a ring in to the tube just behind the mount. The idea is the carbon will shed it's fibers along it's length. Scoring a ring allows a thin layer to shed so you can pull the mount, without the fibers peeling back uncontrollably. With the score in place, simply grasp the pieces with pliers and rotate them off (twisting along the same axis the prop would turn). They should come right off with very little force, and there will be a thin layer of CF peeled off near the nose. If you're concerned about this weakening the nose, adding some thread wrap will give peace of mind. I wouldn't worry though... the fuse stick is way overkill.

Hope this helps,
Kev
Jul 20, 2011, 01:33 PM
Registered User
tripleup05's Avatar
Trug,

You da man

I can't believe I didn't think of something so simple as bending the wire over the elevator linkage. DUH! I guess my mind is so complex it can't process simple things

That is a great idea about removing the heat sink. I will give it a shot!
Jul 20, 2011, 08:04 PM
Registered User
boingk's Avatar
Triple - Use a triangular jog with one bend going up at 45' and the other down. This should be stronger than the tophat type bend and has worked for me well in the past. Of course, the tophat does give better clearance.

Cheers - boingk


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