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Jun 26, 2011, 05:10 PM
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Murman's Avatar

Did someone say "lawn dart"?


You know that little screw that comes with the servo to secure the servo horn to the servo? Well.....Yeah, I forgot to use one of them on the elevator servo. I had about a 5 second flight before it released and caused the plane to dive into the ground. I am not a happy camper.
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Jun 27, 2011, 11:19 AM
In the 20' glider range
anti-gravity's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hance View Post
I just run a 4.75X4.75 on mine all the time. We are going to do combat with them at some point this summer but I am sure streamers wont be involved. They are so small and fast the odds of a collision are pretty small so we will risk trashing two planes at once.
When you get your butt to boise we will do this
Jul 11, 2011, 11:23 PM
Registered User
tripleup05's Avatar
I made a stupid mistake. I set the fuselage on the right hand side of the tail instead of the left, as shown in the picture. Is this OK, or do I need to make a trip to the LHS and pick up some debonder and re-do it?
Jul 11, 2011, 11:24 PM
In the 20' glider range
anti-gravity's Avatar
I think you should be ok...
Jul 13, 2011, 03:08 PM
Registered User
tripleup05's Avatar
Here is the new plane. Hopefully it doesn't end up taking a dirt dive on its 2nd flight like my first AR. It weighed in at 3.8oz with a 3s 300mah Grayson Hobby LiPo. It is heavier than I was hoping for, but there are a couple of things working against it. The paint adds some weight, but how much, I'm not sure. It will make it easier to see, and look cooler IMO, so I'm ok with it. But, for whatever reason, I couldn't make my 5g servos work without interfering with each other. The control rod for the left aileron would hit against the elevator linkage and make it go haywire. I didn't have this issue on my first AR, so I don't know what has caused it now. I ended up sticking a HXT 9g servo in for the aileron instead. It sits a few MM higher than the 5g, so it works. It is just heavier.

As you can see, I have ALOT of servo wiring. That coil is actually the 9g servo lead wrapping around the 5g lead. I think the 9g has like 10" of wire! Should I cut that back to a more reasonable length? Or would the weight of solder and shrink tubing on the three wires negate any weight savings of shortening the lead?







Last edited by tripleup05; Jul 13, 2011 at 04:30 PM.
Jul 16, 2011, 08:12 PM
Expo is built into my thumbs
Hance's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murman View Post
You know that little screw that comes with the servo to secure the servo horn to the servo? Well.....Yeah, I forgot to use one of them on the elevator servo. I had about a 5 second flight before it released and caused the plane to dive into the ground. I am not a happy camper.
I did the ole lawn dart to mine this morning. Full throttle straight down. It was one of those episodes if people were around and your going to try something stupid you say hey everybody watch this Already got the replacement built but now my Adrenaline Rush stock is completely gone. I guess its time to place another order.


Untitled by Hance1976, on Flickr
Jul 17, 2011, 08:36 AM
Registered User
boingk's Avatar
tripleup05 - I reckon you've done a good job mate, just check the CG is right with the battery fitted and that all the control surfaces are throwing the right way... then go fly that sucker!

Hance - Dang. Had the jet in my avatar nose in the other day as well - still flies but the repair job isnt very pretty.

Cheers - boingk
Jul 18, 2011, 08:32 AM
Registered User
tripleup05's Avatar
The maiden didn't go so well. I think I had my CG too far forward because it would nose down hard, then I would correct it, then it would nose down hard again, etc. I was fortunate that I set it down smoothly with no more damage than a broken prop. I guess it could have been trimmed badly, but it took ALOT of up elevator to level it out, thats why I am thinking it was a CG problem.

I moved the battery back a bit, put on a new prop, and started the motor to try again. Within a few seconds, and thankfully before I tossed the plane, the motor started making a terrible sound and the motor shaft started vibrating really bad. I guess a bearing or other internal part grenaded. Needless to say, my Blue Arrow 4200kv from Hobby King is toast.

So what kind of 12mm inrunner options are out there? None of the LHS around me carry any. I could buy the same motor again with my next HK purchase, but honestly, I don't think that motor was really up to snuff. I think somebody said this to me in an earlier post that they also felt there BA 4200 was underpowered. I know SA carries the Hacker 4300kv for $29, but after shipping that will be almost a $40 motor. It isn't that I'm not willing to spend $40 on a motor...but if there are cheaper alternatives...I'd like to hear about them
Jul 18, 2011, 09:04 AM
DFC~ We Do Flyin' Right
Vapor Trails's Avatar
I have been putting off building mine, despite it being so simple to assemble...

My only hesitation is in the sanding of the wing. I simply have no understanding of the concepts of washout, and very basic understanding of how airfoils work.

It is my understanding thinner is faster, but at what point do you risk structural integrity?

How Thin do I make the trailing edges? Should I sand from the top or from the bottom? Is it a combination of both? How thick do I leave the leading edges?

I am an avid rc pilot and have high performance planes that go up to 130mph, but somehow I got to this stage with practically zero experience building with wood... testament to growing up in an ARF era. Imagine without ARFs, it would have probably taken me several months to a year to build my Sundowner.

I was also curious, what is everyone treating their wood with? is anyone fiberglassing the wing?

Thanks for the Guidance!

BSB
Jul 18, 2011, 10:06 AM
Registered User
boingk's Avatar
Triple - try a turnighy 2211 or similar 3000 kv outrunner from hk. I've had good experiences with the 24g hextronik outrunners. Prop with a 4.5 x 4 prop and go flying.

On airfoils, do some legitimate research as there is more than I can say here. Basically, sand from the top as you don't want a symmetrical airfoil. The peak of the airfoil profile should be around thirty percent of the chord of the wing back from the leading edge. Taper from this point to form leading and trailing edges. Don't go too thin on the trailing edge . I will post pica of my wing if you want.

Cheers - boingk PS excuse typos fusing a smaaallll smartphone.
Jul 18, 2011, 10:38 AM
Registered User
tripleup05's Avatar
BSB,

I was in your posistion not too long ago with my Adranaline Rush. It was my first build, and I was nervous as heck about screwing up the wing. Now that I have completed it, and it turned out good, I can confidently tell you to take a deep breath and relax. It isn't that bad at all. Go ahead and re-read the instructions regarding the wing sanding. Although I had a lot of questions myself, the instructions actually explain almost every aspect of it.

After a couple of the fellas on here gave me some confidence, I grabbed my sanding block I got from SA and set to work. I used the coarser grit for most of the work. I think it is 120. I don't know how other people do it, but I only sanded in the "push" direction. I would set the block on the 25% mark that SA etched on the wing, and then push the block towards the trailing edge. Re-set the block and repeat. I would work down the wing, moving the block over about half the width of the block each time (basically each stroke would overlap the last by 1/2, if that makes sense). Then when I got to the wingtip, I would work my way back up the wing. Do this until you get to 1/16-1/32 of an inch (per the instructions). I went to 1/16 to make the wing stronger. Once I got to 1/16, I flipped the block over and used the 240 grit to smooth it out.

The leading edge is even easier because it doesn't have to be sanded as thin. I can't really give you any measurements because I didn't take any as I was sanding. Just try to mimic Bill's pictures from the beginning of this thread. I know the pics are on the instructions, but they are black and white. Much better pics here on the thread. Once I got the leading edge sanded to what I thought was the right thickness (by looking at Bill's pics) I used the block to round it off. Most of that was done by rounding the top of the wing, but I rounded a little from the bottom too.

I didn't try and add any washout. If a noobie like me could land just fine without it, I am sure an experienced hi-speed fella like yourself will be A-Ok without it.

Now for the fine print
I'm totally new at this myself, and it wouldn't surprise (or upset) me if someone came along and said what I am describing to you is wrong. All I know is that it worked.

To be honest, I haven't been really successful with my two Adrenaline Rushes. The receiver failed on the first one, and my second one didn't fly well due to having the CG screwed up. I fixed the CG, and then the motor came apart on me. With that said, I have taken both planes into two different hobby shops to get them looked over my someone with experience. I was complimented on the airfoil on both planes in both shops by the resident balsa gurus. It's easy. If I can do it, you can do it

PS- My dad is carpenter, and I grew up around saw dust. It never bothered me. But there is something about balsa dust that will just drive your lungs crazy. Wear one of the bird flu masks while sanding!

PPS- Search for my postings on this thread. I have asked alot of questions, some regarding sanding. Read my questions, then read what others, like boingk, have recommended.

Just go for it!
Last edited by tripleup05; Jul 18, 2011 at 10:44 AM.
Jul 18, 2011, 10:41 AM
Registered User
tripleup05's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by boingk View Post
Triple - try a turnighy 2211 or similar 3000 kv outrunner from hk. I've had good experiences with the 24g hextronik outrunners. Prop with a 4.5 x 4 prop and go flying.
Thanks for the advice boingk. My only concern is that I have the GWS heat sink epoxied on the carbon fuse. If I were to go with a outrunner, it would have to be removed. Is there any way to get that sucker off without tearing up the fuse?
Jul 18, 2011, 10:57 AM
Expo is built into my thumbs
Hance's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by tripleup05 View Post
The maiden didn't go so well. I think I had my CG too far forward because it would nose down hard, then I would correct it, then it would nose down hard again, etc. I was fortunate that I set it down smoothly with no more damage than a broken prop. I guess it could have been trimmed badly, but it took ALOT of up elevator to level it out, thats why I am thinking it was a CG problem.

I moved the battery back a bit, put on a new prop, and started the motor to try again. Within a few seconds, and thankfully before I tossed the plane, the motor started making a terrible sound and the motor shaft started vibrating really bad. I guess a bearing or other internal part grenaded. Needless to say, my Blue Arrow 4200kv from Hobby King is toast.

So what kind of 12mm inrunner options are out there? None of the LHS around me carry any. I could buy the same motor again with my next HK purchase, but honestly, I don't think that motor was really up to snuff. I think somebody said this to me in an earlier post that they also felt there BA 4200 was underpowered. I know SA carries the Hacker 4300kv for $29, but after shipping that will be almost a $40 motor. It isn't that I'm not willing to spend $40 on a motor...but if there are cheaper alternatives...I'd like to hear about them
I use the 2730 3000 kv with a 4.75*4.75 prop on all the ones I build. That setup pulls about 20 amps a hauls butt. Lots of details of how I have built them a few pages back.
Jul 18, 2011, 11:57 AM
Registered User
tripleup05's Avatar
Hance,

What ESC are you using with the 2730-3000kv?
Jul 18, 2011, 12:10 PM
DFC~ We Do Flyin' Right
Vapor Trails's Avatar
Thanks a million for the support fellas!


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