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Well should have been working on the cap tonight, but decided to go out and throw a plug in the back yard before dark:
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Don't worry too much about the covering; if you are careful not to let it stick to itself (!), the lite films are very forgiving. They shrink like crazy, which to me makes them easier than a lot of the heavier films. Just experiment with heat and don't let a heat gun get too close or linger over a spot too long! BTW, heat guns are a great accessory-get one and you will not regret it!
Keep going, the build looks great so far! |
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I am just taking my time with this plane. I have not been at it at all this week since I finished the fuse because I just purchased the 3s2p lipo packs and have been playing around with them in other planes. I am very glad I decided to splurge and get the Lipo packs, I do that think the Cap 232 would have been nearly as much fun on 8 and 9 cell GP 3300 cells.
As I flew my other planes with the weight difference of the lipos, I am becoming convienced I really want to build the Cap super light. So I will probably order the Solite film instead of using standard ecno films. Bill Stevens (designer) notes that this will save anywhere from 5-6 oz on the plane. Check out my Lipo tests at: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...50#post3900994 Mike |
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Hi,
Nice work with your Cap. I too am a novice (8-9 months of hobbing-off) and I just would like to stress to you to get the C.G. correct on this and every model. I took my big Cap out this morning, and after moving ths 3s2c 4000 pack forward 3 times for C.G. if "figured" I had it. I took her off and she went straight up along with my H.B. I pushed the stick and it flipped over like a 3d thing. Two minutes later and 5 extremely sketchy passes of the road the plane was almost down. Almost I write because it skimmed over the road, almost hit my G480, and then the it winged into a fence at a 45 degree angle. The tail swung around and slapped the fence as well. The plane was barely controllable all becasue my C.G. was incorrect by .5-1 inch. Bad, bad, pilot! Its funny, but I can barely make out where the wing hit, and if the fuse wasn't cracked in a few spots I think I could have flown it right away. The way it hit and the noise it produced I thought it was done with out a doubt. When I mend the fuse I will balance the plane with every pack I plan on using making marks on the battery tray. Also, I like using 5 minute epoxy on the battery trey cross supports. I don't always land smoothly and have found using just C.A. not strong enough. I tried using the magnets from my Stella kit for the hatch and they weren't strong enough to keep the heavier hatch down. They are about 5 mill is dia. if that helps. Good luck, have fun and don't do what I did. |
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wheh, what an end of June. Thought I would never get back to the CAP.
Got to do a little more work on her tonight. Sand, Sand, Sand. Sanding the tail feathers to fit the fuse just right and sanding the fuse and all to be real smooth. Coming out very nice though. I picked up some Solite a week ago, but only got 2 rolls. Found out in another thread that it will take just over a roll of the one color I got to get the color scheme I am looking for. So I will most likely order another roll. Problem is - wife hit the roof . Bag of parts from tower $100. CC Pheonix 45 brushless ESC $65 (yes a good deal). Lipo Batteries $170. Covering and blades $33 Having your wife PO'd at you for 2 days when the master card bill comes in ... Priceless I think it may have something to do with having 6 fully ready to fly models in the shop, all purchased in the last 8 months. The bad news is (if not having enough covering - and not having any money to buy another roll is not bad enough) - I DONT HAVE A MOTOR YET !!! And now I don't know when I can get good consensis on getting one. So it may be late july before I actually fly this bird - might even be August. Sorry so much build up here. But I will keep building and posting until I run out of supplies. I'll Keep you posted. Mike |
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Quote:
Scott |
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Hi Scott,
Thanks for the advice. I continue to gain info on flying and always glad to know others are watching my back in these threads. I am guessing you are the author of "Mastering RC flight". That is a nice read and I thumb thru it several times a week. My usual proceedure is: Read book / Try on simulator (G2) / Read book again / sim / real world flight This is working pretty well for me - thought I cannot get a plane it G2 to flat spin yet. Perhaps this is an easier manuver done with a 3D plane. (I have tried the caps and some of the trainers) Any way, thanks for the good read. Mike |
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Well nearly finished with the frame now. Got all but Wheel pants completed - and then just loose ends: Tail Wheel, Dye the Canpoy, paint and cover, etc.
My friend Fred should be back from his month of travels soon and I think I will be ready to cover upon his arrival. Very excited about getting this plane done as I continue to read what a great flier it is. In G2 Sim the caps there tend to tip stall to one wing or the other. From all I have read the SA Cap 232 does not. This ought to really be a good flier. |
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Main wing, while each individual piece is very flimsy, the completed structure is quite sturdy.
Assembly was basicly a non-issue. I pre-sanded all parts and this helped in fit. Nothing had to be forced or trimmed. I broke one of the sub ribs, but this was do to my heavy hand - I tend to over press, over glue and over sand things. I have the turtle deck so thin in places you can see thru it when held up to the light I am finshe sanding the whole model now using a 100 / 250 / 600 grit reduction step by step. Finish produce is very smooth and ready for covering. I noticed in the instruction that there was no instruction for the installation of the pieces that hold on the wing to the fuse. I posted in the other cap forum and then saw on the plan sheet that it uses 3/16 inch dowels inclued in the kit, but as you assemble, it does not say so in instructions. Just a small foot note. I knew it was held on with something, I just had to study it some. Here are some pics: |
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Here is the finish so far. Just the wheel pants left to go. (and of coarse I still need to find the cash for a motor - this is all I lack)
A look at the final so far: Mike |
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I plan to use either the AXI 2820-10 or the new Hacker A30-10XL. Leaning toward the A30 because it is very complete (motor, prop adaptors for forward and rear mount and a plywood jig for mounting) all for $89, where as all this is extra with the AXI motors.
The MP-Jet is still and option and I may get one to try with one of the other 2 above. That way I can have yet a second brushless for my World Models Fun World EP (my favorite plane - but heavy after the rebuild). |
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I also have a recently purchased Castle Creations Pheonix 45 that I purchased from Adam of DraganFly Innovations. He sold me the ESC for $65.
I asked for the latest firmware, but have no idea if he updated it before shipping. I have read in other threads somewhere (after I purchased my CC 45 ) that the CC 45's were having problems with outrunner motors. I did not know this or may have reconsidered the ESC. Does any one know what that issue is or if it had been address in later models of this ESC? Or how to fix it if it is a problem for me. Guess what I am asking is what computer settings on the ESC should I use? Mike |
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Quote:
I am using a CC 45 controlling the following outrunners with no problems at all. AXI 2826/10 AXI 2820/10 Plettenberg 15-18 & 15-16 Hyperion 3025-8T The CCs are all using the 1.14 version software. The only changes I make to the settings are delayed soft brake and high timing. Like I said many flights on the above outrunners with no problems. Doug |
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