I've been watching this thread with interest and this camera does seem very good for the size and battery life - good work by those who helped to develop this!

If the resolution was 4K, I would have probably bought one by now.

Originally Posted by sacmiata

My video/photo preference via software as well as mode selection via the power button is working fine. I am guessing your pushing the set parameters button to write the change.

Yup, I do that and get the happy confirmation message that my changes have been set. Settings are correct, at least in the mSetup GUI they show up as I set it up.

Just found another niggle: tried video timelapse a couple of times, and most of the times the yellow light blinks away happily indicating recording is going on, but nothing is saved to the (32GB Samsung Evo Plus/U1/class10) card

Originally Posted by Pixelpeter

First little niggle I found: I set up my #32 (via mSetup) to start up in video mode; upon startup the yellow-light will come up first, but the camera will settle on red (= photo mode). Press on the mode-button will put it in video-mode, but still ... Changed it back and forth a couple of times, but the behavior persists.

I'm assuming you've set and confirmed "Power On Default" is set to "Video Mode".

To turn on the camera you only need to press the Power button for 1/2 second. If you press the button too long the camera will turn on and then, because the button is still pressed, think you want to change modes. So, press the power button and release it immediately you see the red LED turn on.

Originally Posted by Pixelpeter

Yup, I do that and get the happy confirmation message that my changes have been set. Settings are correct, at least in the mSetup GUI they show up as I set it up.

Just found another niggle: tried video timelapse a couple of times, and most of the times the yellow light blinks away happily indicating recording is going on, but nothing is saved to the (32GB Samsung Evo Plus/U1/class10) card

How long are you waiting before you stop the recording?
For example, if you set the time-lapse to 1 minute then you must wait 1 minute for one single frame to be saved. If you stop the recording before the 1 minute time is up then there will be no recording.

Whenever you record video, time lapse or not, the yellow LED will blink normally every two seconds. Unlike time-lapse photos, it does not blink each time a frame is saved.

EDIT. My mistake, you should get at least 1 frame when you start the time-lapse recording - at least with the 1 min. example I gave above. I assume you press the shutter button to correctly stop the recording?

Originally Posted by Isoprop

I'm assuming you've set and confirmed "Power On Default" is set to "Video Mode".

To turn on the camera you only need to press the Power button for 1/2 second. If you press the button too long the camera will turn on and then, because the button is still pressed, think you want to change modes. So, press the power button and release it immediately you see the red LED turn on.

Yup, Poweron Default is set to VideoMode. But you maybe right that I press the powerbutton slightly too long; will keep an eye on that

Originally Posted by Isoprop

How long are you waiting before you stop the recording?
For example, if you set the time-lapse to 1 minute then you must wait 1 minute for one single frame to be saved. If you stop the recording before the 1 minute time is up then there will be no recording.

Whenever you record video, time lapse or not, the yellow LED will blink normally every two seconds. Unlike time-lapse photos, it does not blink each time a frame is saved.

EDIT. My mistake, you should get at least 1 frame when you start the time-lapse recording - at least with the 1 min. example I gave above. I assume you press the shutter button to correctly stop the recording?

So far I only tried video-timelapse on 1 s and 5 s intervals, while the camera is set to 5 min poweroff standby, so it shouldn't be the camera that's switching off. I think I did properly stop all the recordings (observing the camera still blinking yellow before stopping), but will make sure the next time I try video-timelapse. Will report back.

EDIT: just ran 3 video timelapses (on 5 sec) and all 3 recorded to the card First two I stopped myself (camera blinking yellow), the third one was created when the camera ran out of juice, so it's good to know it'll finalize a file before shutting down

Observation: cannot say that I'm impressed by the image quality though; kinda expected a bit more from its 1080p, eventhough it's a small camera and lens.

Originally Posted by Pixelpeter

Observation: cannot say that I'm impressed by the image quality though; kinda expected a bit more from its 1080p, eventhough it's a small camera and lens.

hello , please could you post some samples?

Originally Posted by giovanni67500

hello , please could you post some samples?

So far the weather isn't cooperating: dull grey skies and rain all the time over here

Originally Posted by Not a Number

Oh, nice upgrade from the #16. The longer recording time is a big plus.

If possible could someone post so low light video samples?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xC8...ew?usp=sharing

Actually was interested in this myself. Did the same route mounted to my bike and going up and down the street as it progressively got darker. Its not that bad. Definitely gets grainy as it gets darker but that's to be expected. All shots are 1080p and 20mbps - apologize for the slow shaky ride along

Running it through the video editing software makes it look alittle worse but my opinion is its pretty good for what it is at dusk.

Originally Posted by hamael

I've been watching this thread with interest and this camera does seem very good for the size and battery life - good work by those who helped to develop this!

If the resolution was 4K, I would have probably bought one by now.

For 50 bucks you can get a used gopro 3 on craigslist (actually thats my normal action cam) or spend more and get even better quality video. I should post a comparison but its apples/oranges. For what I have found in this size and price range this really was the best option in my opinion.

I wanted something small and light for rc car racing and small UMX planes that a gopro is just to large/heavy. I also hate how hot my gopro runs and wanted to add a chase cam angle in my race car. Plus the kids needed a web-cam for there zoom classes so it checks that box as well.

If I had a wish list it would be a larger lens/sensor if it could fit and 60 or more FPS option (even if at 720P). But that would probably drive the price up to more then what I wanted to spend anyways!

Originally Posted by sacmiata

If I had a wish list it would be a larger lens/sensor if it could fit and 60 or more FPS option (even if at 720P). But that would probably drive the price up to more then what I wanted to spend anyways!

Sounds like you would have preferred the Mobius Mini. Made by same people as 808 #16/#32. Just a bit bigger, 28g, bigger lens, 1080 60fps, double the price.

[CA$118.23 8% OFF]Mobius Mini 1080P 110 Degree Wide Angle Super Light FPV Full HD Camera DashCam 60FPS H.264 AVC RC Parts from Toys Hobbies and Robot on banggood https://banggood.app.link/jQY6M7uscdb

Originally Posted by sacmiata

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xC8...ew?usp=sharing

Actually was interested in this myself. Did the same route mounted to my bike and going up and down the street as it progressively got darker. Its not that bad. Definitely gets grainy as it gets darker but that's to be expected. All shots are 1080p and 20mbps - apologize for the slow shaky ride along

Running it through the video editing software makes it look alittle worse but my opinion is its pretty good for what it is at dusk.

Excellent! Thank you.

I have one on order (in transit).

Was able to squeeze out some (4) video-timelapses today; no hickups this time, but yesterday of the three I tried, only the third one wound up on the card (camera shutdown after running out of juice)

Looking at the image, I get the feeling my camera just isn't focused correctly. Everything looks a bit blurry. Guess I have to open it up, and start picking away that glue on the lensbarrel.

EDIT: it wasn't too bad to remove the glue/seal of the lens; once you got some off, it peeled off in one go. And refocussing did improve IQ for my copy of the #32, although it's hard to find its sweet spot for things further away. I connected my #32 with the provided cable (and without the card!) to my PC and used a little webcam prog called "MyCam" and tried and focussed on things further away. Tests show a nice improvement

Originally Posted by Pixelpeter

Was able to squeeze out some (4) video-timelapses today; no hickups this time, but yesterday of the three I tried, only the third one wound up on the card (camera shutdown after running out of juice)

Looking at the image, I get the feeling my camera just isn't focused correctly. Everything looks a bit blurry. Guess I have to open it up, and start picking away that glue on the lensbarrel.

EDIT: it wasn't too bad to remove the glue/seal of the lens; once you got some off, it peeled off in one go. And refocussing did improve IQ for my copy of the #32, although it's hard to find its sweet spot for things further away. I connected my #32 with the provided cable (and without the card!) to my PC and used a little webcam prog called "MyCam" and tried and focussed on things further away. Tests show a nice improvement

Do you have any before and after pictures?

Originally Posted by Pixelpeter

Was able to squeeze out some (4) video-timelapses today; no hickups this time, but yesterday of the three I tried, only the third one wound up on the card (camera shutdown after running out of juice)

Looking at the image, I get the feeling my camera just isn't focused correctly. Everything looks a bit blurry. Guess I have to open it up, and start picking away that glue on the lensbarrel.

EDIT: it wasn't too bad to remove the glue/seal of the lens; once you got some off, it peeled off in one go. And refocussing did improve IQ for my copy of the #32, although it's hard to find its sweet spot for things further away. I connected my #32 with the provided cable (and without the card!) to my PC and used a little webcam prog called "MyCam" and tried and focussed on things further away. Tests show a nice improvement

My lens D version arrived, and it looks like it was focused for close-up -- like 5 feet or so. (I seem to recall that was usually the case with the #16, too.) As you say, the glue is easy to remove, and I was able to get better focus for distance with a little clockwise turn. (The rubbery glue was all the way around the barrel, but after breaking through in one spot, the whole thing easily peeled off in one piece.) It's still pretty soft focus at distance compared to the Mobius or Mini, however, and I suspect that the problem is that the tiny lens doesn't quite have the resolving power necessary for the tiny pixels. It's not bad, though -- even with the softness, it's better than the #16 overall, and definitely better than the "fake 1080p" (up-sized) Mate808 that was released a few years ago.

EDIT: My lens A version arrived right after I posted this. It's gotten cloudy, so I'll need to wait to test again with good light, but it appears that this lens is in better focus than the D was, and I may not need to refocus it. As for field of view, as Tom's samples showed, it looks like a telescopic lens compared to the D lens, but I like that for most things because of the greater detail and negligible barrel distortion.

Originally Posted by RogerDH

My lens D version arrived, and it looks like it was focused for close-up -- like 5 feet or so. (I seem to recall that was usually the case with the #16, too.) As you say, the glue is easy to remove, and I was able to get better focus for distance with a little clockwise turn. (The rubbery glue was all the way around the barrel, but after breaking through in one spot, the whole thing easily peeled off in one piece.) It's still pretty soft focus at distance compared to the Mobius or Mini, however, and I suspect that the problem is that the tiny lens doesn't quite have the resolving power necessary for the tiny pixels. It's not bad, though -- even with the softness, it's better than the #16 overall, and definitely better than the "fake 1080p" (up-sized) Mate808 that was released a few years ago.

Lens focus accuracy seems to be a common issue with the #32... I experienced it on my beta test cameras as well, but as everyone has said, it's not hard to free the lens for better focus. I would not be surprised if they get the lenses focused for distance better right from the supplier.

I'm pretty anal about focus, and usually re-focus all the camera lenses if they don't look good out of the box. I've got the #32 to it's sweet spot, and at the 720p resolution, it's pretty close to the #16, with the bigger difference being the #16's image looking to have a bit more contrast. At 1080p, though, it can't match the sharpness of the larger Mobius cameras, at least not yet.

Advanced IQ functions are being worked on for the #32, so we should ultimately have the ability to tweak the IQ (e.g. saturation, contrast, exposure, and hopefully sharpness) settings along with maybe WB and metering options? (a guess on my part at this point).

I also suspect the lens resolving power is lacking as well, but new lens options are also being sought.