Jason, He uses a slider for throttle control. Others (who fly primarily gliders like me) I have seen use a three position switch. Any thoughts on either and do you use your DS12 for F5J or another JETI controller. Specifically, what is your power switch setup?

Thanks for all the great reviews, Dan

Hey Dan,
I use a switch to turn on the motor, then use a slider to control speed from idle to full. Usually I have the slider set to full throttle, then hit the switch with my right finger since I'm a lefty to throw the plane. Then once in the air, I can pull the speed back using the left slider on my DS14 radio.

Originally Posted by Dan Richardson

Jason, He uses a slider for throttle control. Others (who fly primarily gliders like me) I have seen use a three position switch. Any thoughts on either and do you use your DS12 for F5J or another JETI controller. Specifically, what is your power switch setup?
Thanks for all the great reviews, Dan

I use the Jeti DS-12 for F5J. Motor cut switch on a on/off switch. Throttle control is on a 3 way switch (low, launch, full).
Assign the throttle to the 3 way switch, then use a 3 point curve to set the % for each point.

Jason and DT, thanks for the reply.

DT, do you have a "throttle cut" switch in addition to the "on-off" switch? Understand the 3 position switch concept for three speeds. I currently have an additional separate "on-off" in addition to the "throttle cut" Seems redundant to me, but have read more than one person recommending this three switch motor control configuration (i.e., Throttle cut, on off, and three selectable motor speeds).

Originally Posted by Dan Richardson

Jason and DT, thanks for the reply.

DT, do you have a "throttle cut" switch in addition to the "on-off" switch? Understand the 3 position switch concept for three speeds. I currently have an additional separate "on-off" in addition to the "throttle cut" Seems redundant to me, but have read more than one person recommending this three switch motor control configuration (i.e., Throttle cut, on off, and three selectable motor speeds).

Dan, yes I replaced one of the pots of the DS-12 with a 2 way locking switch for safety (done with a logical switch programing).
Then on/off throttle switch that its speed controlled by the 3-way switch. I used a 3-way with down monetary spring for full power. I like the spring for full power, since its being used only for a few sec. When released it goes to the middle speed.

DT, Had the same safety switch setup as you describe but I like the spring loaded full power configuration you describe better! Will have to purchase one. Also, I am considering replacing the locking safety switch function (same as yours) with the DS12 "Throttle Lock" option. My motivation is to stay safe but also open up another switch position for future use. Probably for switch activated altitude, or other telemetry of interest, reporting.

For F5J you really want a low power setting that allows you to slow down to search for lift. All or nothing is fine for ALES but sub-optimal for F5J.

I arm the motor with 1 switch and then have a 3-pos switch with a low barely turning setting to lift searching, a middle setting for launch/no wind, and a high power for wind or max altitude. I use a Futaba 32MZ and 18SZ.

Originally Posted by Dan Richardson

DT, Had the same safety switch setup as you describe but I like the spring loaded full power configuration you describe better! Will have to purchase one. Also, I am considering replacing the locking safety switch function (same as yours) with the DS12 "Throttle Lock" option. My motivation is to stay safe but also open up another switch position for future use. Probably for switch activated altitude, or other telemetry of interest, reporting.

I replaced both pots/knobs with switches. Have enough switches For all the F5J functions I need and for telemetry calling.

I use the flap stick for throttle. Activated with a switch. This enables the throttle, disables the flaps. Allows for very precise control of the motor in low power settings and is consistent with 50+ years of flying powered planes. At 30 seconds or when I want to shut off, switch flip to Flight and stick to the top. Worked for many years. Honestly don't know why more people don't do it this way. Especially those who have extensive power backgrounds.

Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler, AZ
Team Futaba

Originally Posted by dnbarrie11

I use the flap stick for throttle. Activated with a switch. This enables the throttle, disables the flaps. Allows for very precise control of the motor in low power settings and is consistent with 50+ years of flying powered planes. At 30 seconds or when I want to shut off, switch flip to Flight and stick to the top. Worked for many years. Honestly don't know why more people don't do it this way. Especially those who have extensive power backgrounds.

Easy enough to do with a modern radio, but how do you handle repowering when you're not contesting? Flip the switch and its coming on with full throttle? Since it's in the air, I'd assume that's no problem.

Originally Posted by dnbarrie11

I use the flap stick for throttle. Activated with a switch. This enables the throttle, disables the flaps. Allows for very precise control of the motor in low power settings and is consistent with 50+ years of flying powered planes. At 30 seconds or when I want to shut off, switch flip to Flight and stick to the top. Worked for many years. Honestly don't know why more people don't do it this way. Especially those who have extensive power backgrounds.

Exactly the way my setups work. Repowering up? Motor safety on (motor disabled), flight mode back to Launch, motor safety off (motor armed), power ... takes much longer to type or say it than it does to actually do it. I fly a lot of power models, some heli's, many powered sailplanes ... this has worked for me for years.

I'm using Mike Shellim's e-Soar+ program. Have the throttle on a slider of my X10S Express. I use an arming switch per Mike's program. I always first cut arming switch at the end of the final climb or cutoff. Then throttle back to zero to enable restart if needed.

I made this curve to simplify having a "cruise" throttle setting without the risk of zeroing out the recording device. Initial climb out at middle or higher throttle. Cutback to mid throttle detent, then move just below the middle detent. That sets the throttle at a predetermine plateau across a wide range of settings of the slider. Adjust points 3 and 4 as needed for slow level flight. Easy...

The curve may be able to be used on other F5J setups with throttle on a slider.

BTW Mike Shellim's e-Soar+ is a very fine program for F5J with OpenTx. Download templates and setup guide here:
https://rc-soar.com/opentx/setups/esoarplus/index.htm




Happy flying

I'm setting up an Osprey 2 F5J (from soaringUSA)... there will be a battery for the motor and a battery for the receiver... what I wondering, as I do with large gas planes, should I have a backup receiver battery for this big 3.8 meter plane... appreciate any input... thanks

Originally Posted by skymaster_1980

I'm setting up an Osprey 2 F5J (from soaringUSA)... there will be a battery for the motor and a battery for the receiver... what I wondering, as I do with large gas planes, should I have a backup receiver battery for this big 3.8 meter plane... appreciate any input... thanks

This is the topic of considerable debate. The answer will depend on who you ask. My solution is to use the ESCs BEC with a backup battery. I'm aware that SUSA recommends a separate battery for the RX and servos and there's nothing wrong with that other than you're carrying another battery to recharge and the space it takes up. I've never had an ESCs BEC fail, I always use a Castle Lite 50. I do use a backup battery in conjunction with a Zepsus dual input magnetic switch. The Zepsus chooses the higher voltage input to use. Set the BEC to 7.8 or so for HV servos, a small 500 ma 2s LiFe will do nicely for a backup. If you don't have all HV servos, I've used a 4 cell 2/3 AAA pack; also very small. I use OpenTx and have a "special function" to call out battery voltage if the RX battery telemetry is below 6.8 volts. That would indicate a BEC failure, never happened in many years of using this system, but good to know it's there. IMHO this provides redundancy that a separate RX battery does not, though it's unlikely that a separate battery would fail.

LInk to the switch: https://www.soaringusa.com/Zepsus-Du...itch-7amp.html

Here's the LiFe I use: https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...4aAkr1EALw_wcB