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Dec 03, 2020, 11:26 PM
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Build Log

Fighter Face Off 2: Park Flyer Fun Scale Ki-27 Nate vs I.E. Brewster Buffalo


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With the great fun and feedback that Paul and I had doing the initial FFO (Curtis Hawk and Polikarpov Rata), we knew we wanted to do another installment. Recently (perhaps due to the pandemic) I had been playing around with some smaller designs and got to talking to Paul about what we should do next. He mentioned he was wanting to do the Brewster Buffalo but had hit roadblocks with the unusual gear the aircraft had. I mentioned about doing a 30” “belly flopper” and her was keen on the idea. I then had to decide what I was going to design/build as an opponent, and I decided on the Nakajima Ki-27.

The Ki-27 or Nate (allied code name) was the main Japanese fighter aircraft during the late 1930s. It featured a radial engine, enclosed canopy, and fixed gear that were streamlined with spats and pants. Interestingly, the Nate saw combat against the Rata in the Mongolian theater. And initially they held an advantage over the Russian design, however the introduction of updated versions of the I-16 soon used their improved armament to wrestle back control of the airspace. The Nate also saw action against the British in the Indies and the pacific, where it came into contact with the Buffalo. The Buffalo had the speed and firepower advantage over the Nate, but the Ki-27s were greater numbers and better trained Japanese pilots that eventually won the tide. The beginning of the war with America saw the phase out of the Nate as front-line fighter, his younger sibling the Oscar became a very effective competitor.

D-Rock
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Dec 04, 2020, 11:49 AM
Still the "Pro"-crastinator...
Steve85's Avatar
Looks great D-Rock. I'm not usually a fan of spats and pants, but the Nate looks well-proportioned. I'll be following!

Steve
Dec 04, 2020, 01:50 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve85
the Nate looks well-proportioned.
if you like (too) short noses... Building the tail very light might be an issue, or lengthening the nose somewhat without spoiling the look.
But a great subject off the beaten track. Reminds me a bit of the Mitsubishi A5M
Lorenz
Dec 04, 2020, 06:33 PM
pilot
jeffh22037's Avatar
Good timing.
I've had three of the IPS class (?) Warbirds ( 30" span) kits on my shelf for a while and just started one of them for this winter's building sessions.

I also have several of the other 30" Warbird kits that Manzano cuts on my wishlist already so i am definitely interested in these kits along with the FW-190.

Appreciate the design effort.

Jeff
Dec 04, 2020, 06:46 PM
Still the "Pro"-crastinator...
Steve85's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyyyer
if you like (too) short noses... Building the tail very light might be an issue
Well, OK. I guess I meant I like it.

Steve
Dec 05, 2020, 12:24 AM
Paul Kohlmann
Longhorne's Avatar
I agree that that nose is very short. But D-Rock and I were talking about how slim the fuselage is relative to the wingspan. That will help a bit.

Koh
Dec 05, 2020, 09:28 PM
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The Design


Thanks guys, Paul and I have been chatting a lot and this one happened pretty quickly. I'm pretty excited to do this one as I normally do not do Japanese aircraft, but the Nate had such character! Now on to a little about the model

When speaking with Paul about the project, we landed on 30” for the wingspan- this is roughly the size of the 400 series of Guillows models. Having done a “Guillow’s inspired” P-40, I know that an 18 gram motor on 2S would be perfect for power. I also chose to use the same 4.3 gram servos that I did in the P-40. I wanted the model to “feel” vintage in its design style and in the look of the plans. To that I end chose to use 1/16” balsa stringers vs. the 3/32” ones I used on the FW-190. Parkflyer Plastics has a standard “bowl” cowl that would be perfect so I used that instead of having to build one from balsa. This should also help to simplify the build and help reduce kit costs. Like the 190, I do plan on covering this one in light-weight silkspan and print the color pattern as well. Having limited experience with spats and pants (at least on an airplane lol) I decided to make them from several layers of balsa and have a ply center “core”. The canopy at this stage is planned to be made from sheet but the build may require a vacu-formed one later.

D-Rock
Dec 07, 2020, 08:38 PM
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Construction


The Nate is a pretty straight forward design, with few “oddities”. The tail sections are built from pre-shaped parts and 1/8” square stringers. I had used 3/32” on the tail for the 190, but since I needed 1/8” elsewhere, I kept with that thickness to reduce the overall number of balsa sheets. The tail feathers go together pretty easily. There are a couple of smaller parts on the horizontal but nothing too difficult. The elevator halves are joined with a “U” shaped piece of 1/32” piano wire. One thing I try as much as possible is to not pierce the wood with the pins, but to use the pins on the outside or inside edges. I also use push pins to help keep parts tight to the surface. Pinholes are not the end of the world, its just a little “cleaner” without them. I also try to orient the parts so the ID numbers/letters are on the underside or inside of the structure.

The fuse is built on a keel with the left side attached first. There is 1/16” ply in the design and that allowed me to offer a small 90-degree triangle with the model. This has notches to identify different wood thicknesses as well as wire diameter. Except for F-1, the formers are from 1/16” balsa. Once all the formers are in place, its time to add the 1/16” sqr. stringers. I ordered 2 sheets of Guillow’s stringers. I like theirs as they are denser and less “noodley”. Starting at the center stringer, add each one except the top stringer- this will be added later with the hatch. There is a separate stringer just for the horizontal so reviewing the plans will assist with this. The stringers needed to be “cracked” at F-2 due to the change in shape of the fuse at this point. The outer wing saddles are added at this time- one may need to soak the rear of them to allow for the curve needed to sit on F-5. The battery mounting tray/servo mount is made up from cut parts and its best to mount the servos at this time. The fuse half is removed from the board and the mounting tray is slid into place- this also helps keep everything aligned. Once this is glued in place, the other half of the stingers are added.

The hatch is built in place before the final stringer is added. The front former of the hatch has a 1/16” sqr stinger added ad a 1/16” shim added to the front before it is slid in place and pinned. Next the lower hatch rails are cut from 1/16” x 1/4” balsa cut to length. These are glued in place and rough sanded to match the contour of the fuse sides. I then added clear tape (as seen in the pics) to help prevent the upper hatch rail from being glued to the lower. Once the upper is added, the tape is carefully removed and both the top and bottom rials are blended into the fuse. This completes the major sections of the fuse, the wheel pants will be next.

D-Rock
Dec 07, 2020, 11:12 PM
Paul Kohlmann
Longhorne's Avatar
Dern it—the Axis Powers have leaped ahead again!

Looking good, D-Rock.

Koh
Dec 08, 2020, 02:19 AM
71% of the world is runway . .
Bart83's Avatar
Nice project,will follow this one also . . .

Have fun,

Bart
Dec 08, 2020, 03:50 AM
Big gov never Works
St. Martin's Avatar
Derek, because the Guillows stringers are saw cut, many sand each stringer individually. Try this: Cut all the stringers free, bunch them with a small rubber band on each end. And, roll them gently between the palms of your hand. Watch the unwanted chaff fly off. It gets easier as you do it. And the corners of each stringer remain pretty sharp. Don't recall when I learned that, seems forever.

Fuzz
Dec 11, 2020, 06:15 PM
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Thanks Fuzz, I always pick some great tip up from you

The wheel pants/spats are made up from ply and balsa- both 1/16” and 1/8”. The wheel is a Dubro 1.5” foam tire. The order of the parts needs to be followed per the plans as there is a left and right have version. The outer most part (WP-6) has the top beveled before attaching. I then spent a few minutes outside in the great Phoenix weather sanding them to shape. The wing is up next.

D-Rock
Dec 14, 2020, 03:53 PM
Wanted for breaking Ohm's Law
Dennis Sumner's Avatar
Love the triangle tool.
Latest blog entry: RC Throw Gauge
Dec 14, 2020, 09:01 PM
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Just wing'n it


The wing is a flat bottom design and can be built directly over the plans with no tabs or jigs. The leading edge is 1/4” in thickness and approximately 3/8” in height at the root. To save time later, I pinned the LE in place and then used the ribs to mark the height on the rear- then this was removed from the board and then trimmed. I pinned W-2 in place as well as W-8- this allowed me to get the bottom stringers in position. I did not pin them in place yet as I wanted the ability to adjust them as needed for the other ribs. The root rib (W-1) is at an angle (for the dihedral) and there is a guide to get the required tilt. This same angle is used on W-3 and W-3A- these are where the wheel pants are mounted. The trailing edge is a 1/16” part as well as the aileron leading edge. The tip is made from 3 parts and is glued in flat on the board. The main stringers are 1/16” sqr. and all are added at this time. The rear spar for the aileron is made up from the top and bottom rear most stringers. The space between is filled with scrap 1/8” sheet to allow for more hinge gluing surface area. There is an option to use 1/32” torque rods but I chose to mount two 4.3g servos- one in each panel. Once all the ribs, sub ribs, and stringers are in place, the ailerons are cut free- the 1/8” scrap infill is added at this time. Once the aileron is cut free and sanded, it is hinged with thin strip of “CA hinges”. Masking tape was placed over the ribs just behind the leading edge- this protected the LE as it was shaped by a block plane and then sanded to the correct contour. The full size Nate had a large amount of dihedral and the model kept the same amount. Once both panels were built, they were glued together with Titebond.

While this was drying, I worked on the cowl. The main portion of the cowl is from a Park Flyer Plastics standard 3.5” cowl. Only about the front 1” is needed. Using a pencil taped to the sanding block (oddly this was the perfect height), I marked and then cut the unneeded rear portion away. There is cowl ring from 5 parts. I glued all edges together except one, and then placed the ring into the cowl bowl. This allowed me to mark where the ring needed to be trimmed for a perfect fit. We are getting very close to the framework “glamour shots”- I should be able to post them soon.


D-Rock
Dec 15, 2020, 01:07 AM
Paul Kohlmann
Longhorne's Avatar
D-Rock--we're runnin neck and neck!

Good idea on your field fitting of the cowl ring. This ol boy would have sanded. A lot.

Koh


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