Will this file import into the DX8G2?

Originally Posted by Timber816

Will this file import into the DX8G2?

If you mean the model file for the S3, then No, that is for OpenTX transmitters with multi-module support. If you get the S3 working with your DX8G2, it would be great to hear how it behaves in each mode, especially at the end of drift calibration.

Hello folks, first time posting after getting lots of great info from the community/site.

I may have a solution for the drift calibration everyone including myself has struggled with on the Nano s3, haven't tried it on the old s2 yet.

For those that manage to get the solid blue/green (I dont believe colour matters as long as it turns solid) light to come on after the calibration procedure I had the same issue where I thought it wasnt saving the calibration and it made no difference.

What I found was I had to continue to give the cyclic control the same input to maintain the hover after I landed, keep holding the cyclic in that position THEN complete the procedure by activating panic.

That did the trick for me using a DX8 G2, hope it helps!

Originally Posted by SmokyMcSoberlife

I may have a solution for the drift calibration everyone including myself has struggled with on the Nano s3,

What I found was I had to continue to give the cyclic control the same input to maintain the hover after I landed, keep holding the cyclic in that position THEN complete the procedure by activating panic.

That did the trick for me using a DX8 G2, hope it helps!

That seems to work on my OpenTX (TX16S) using the model file I posted above. I had to move my panic switch from the right to the left side of TX to avoid moving the cyclic. Even then I still tend to move it after landing. However, this definitely changes the calibration: each time I do it I get a different drift. I am wondering if applying trim, then landing and hitting panic will get a more precise calibration. Out of the box in Z mode, my S3 was amazingly stable, but once I leveled the swashplate it threw it out. The factory must have an automated way to calibrate the model.

Originally Posted by helifun15

I am wondering if applying trim, then landing and hitting panic will get a more precise calibration.

I just tried this and it appeared to work:

1. Enter drift calibration mode.
2. Take off and set throttle to a low hover.
3. Use left (throttle) hand to adjust cyclic trim while moving cyclic to prevent S3 from hitting walls, doors, me, and the cat.
4. Once trim is adjusted, land model and switch on panic mode.
5. Set cyclic trim back to center

It didn't seem to matter that I was flying the model all over the place as I was adjusting trim. I would do a small trim adjust, center cyclic, adjust again, etc. So the model was moving a lot. My S3 is now very stable in Z mode--not hands free, but any drift seems slow and probably more due to ground and wall effects in the small space I have to fly in my house.

I wonder if it would be easier to just trim the right stick while you're flying and then land and press the panic button and then recenter your trims

Hmm yeah the trim adjust while calibrating sounds like a great idea as it is indeed very hard to keep the cyclic stick exactly as you had it during the hover.

I'd say the actuall flight while in calibration mode has no effect on the adjustment and it really only comes down to your final cyclic input when hitting panic to end the calibration process.

Oh and I also found that the swash wasn't level or anywhere close to 0 pitch at center stick from the factory either.

It seems Horizon can be clear as mud when it comes to set up/instructions haha.

Originally Posted by SmokyMcSoberlife

It seems Horizon can be clear as mud when it comes to set up/instructions haha.

Clearly. However, nothing beats the "Borken" Chinglish in the XK K110 manual. In most cases, there is absolutely no way to even begin to interpret what is stated in the manual. I had to watch videos to set it up. And if you don't have a K110, the borken is still printed on the main blades after years of production. They contain the warning "Do not fly with borken or damaged rotor(s)-may cause damage or lead to injury." The manual is far worse. It contains such useful instructions as: "The determination of when the code is not the same type of remote control to turn around, so as not to impact on the code." ???? It is worth buying a K110 just for the entertainment of reading the manual (ok, its a nice heli too).

If they had a nano sized heli it would be in my shopping cart right now!

Dunno. The K110 has a reputation for being good but they didn’t follow through and to be honest the K130 is not such a good copter.

Wish I hadn’t bought it and there are very few in my hangar I feel that way about.

And while I think, Rakon has 40% off until tonight Code BIG40.

I already have another 230s frame and three blade head ordered with them so something else may go in the shopping cart

I have a 230s as well. I doubt I will be buying any more heli's that don't use an electric tail motor. I never want to deal with belts and tork tubes again and I don't fly in a way that I feel limited with tail motors :-)

Wrong thread but I have five 230s v1s including one for spares and two v2s.

Anyway ... off topic.

Originally Posted by stevea3342

I have a 230s as well. I doubt I will be buying any more heli's that don't use an electric tail motor. I never want to deal with belts and tork tubes again and I don't fly in a way that I feel limited with tail motors :-)

Direct drive motor only works up to a certain size. There's a reason Horizon doesn't do direct drive tails larger than a 230.

Originally Posted by Palm_Pilot

Direct drive motor only works up to a certain size. There's a reason Horizon doesn't do direct drive tails larger than a 230.

I don't disagree with that, but I'm not going to go bigger. I forgot that I sold my 230v1 and bought the 250cfx, I don't think I would ever go bigger, certainly no bigger than a 330 though there's nothing available in that size with brushless tail motor anyway.

Regarding dx8 g2 and trim flights. Channel 5 on green mode is 100 in Green and panic is 150 (on the Spektrum scale).

Not sure how I missed this thread. I received my S3 on Saturday and after spending a couple of hours watching videos on the S2 , S3, and CP heli's in general I adjusted the DR/Expo on my DX6e. (I have a few flights on a CP S that I bought used last so I was a little aware of what to expect from a heli this size).

After an easy bind I spooled it up and the S3 lifted off nicely. A few orientation flights around my living room and I was amazed at how stabile it is, In a shoulder high hover it stays where you put it other than the tendency to drift backwards as others have stated. I fly in Z (green light on) mode and I couldn't wish for anything more in performance and handling that fits my needs.

I'll reread this thread about calibrating and maybe be able to correct the drift?

The best $100.00 that I've spent on "heli stuff" ever!

'hope that everyone is off to a good week.