I must have deleted the pics of your fans, Shane. Could not find them. Isn't one in the Cougar? Well..off to work. Xmas time and when over, I'll have muscles in the stuff that goes in the toilet.

Mike, EDF's are not different than props. Just more efficient with the stators and shroud. Just shrouded props. Same rules apply, really.

Fuzz

Hi Fuzz,

Yes my (your?!) original Fuzz fan is in the Cougar.

For Mike, the geeky EDF fan speak: this is a Wemotec Minifan Pro (5 blade rotor) with Fuzz custom made rolled plywood shroud. Why? - cos it's lighter and stiffer than the plastic shrouds - equals more 'round' than the standard plastic moulded shrouds. This allows the rotor gap (between shroud and rotor tips) to be smaller, thus more efficient. It's running on 4s lipo, and is a standard 70mm Wemotec Minifan. The fans we've been discussing so far are all trimmed to smaller diameter.

It sounds good in this model with it's large cheater hole in the bottom fuselage. that's a bit like putting a big low pitch prop on a model: geared more for static thrust / lower top end speed than a fully sealed inlet duct.

Details of this Cougar model (A foamy!), and my first Fuzzmotec fan can be found on my blog under "Resurecting the dead".

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...9&postcount=44

Shane Cougar 27 Jan 2020 (2 min 31 sec)

Shane.

Good idea to bevel the nose and sides. an idea I've copied (glad this is a dual build so I get that sort of help along the way) before wrapping this up tight in about 2 - 3 metres of elastic -the pressure points aren't on the frame but the excess molding that will be cut off., whilst some polystyrene glue (courtesy of Jim) sets. Put the sticks for the second side of the nose down and left the glue to set on that whilst fardling (a great word for modelling when you aren't quite sure if you've got it right) with the moulding.

I have been AMAZED how cleanly the parts have slotted into place so far, only filing of flash from popping out the pieces and a little from the notches of the f1s and the noted angle adjustments in f6. I think I could get used to this kit building lark....


Anyone wanting an entertaining Hunter story?
One way to shake up parliament -

RAF Hunter Pilot Goes Rogue over London 1968 (4 min 49 sec)

That looks good Vicky,

I'll be curious to see how the plastic cement works glueing the plastic nose to the balsa frame. I hope you don't get distrotion of the molding form the solvent softening the plastic under your elastic strapping.

Anyhow, I've got both sides done, molding trimmed and sides glued together. now I'm off to spend the weekend doing other stuff with Michael so you can get caught up!

Shane.

IIRC, I used amber Gorrilla PU after washing the plastic in dish soap/water and roughing up the inside. I think washing all moldings, glass and plastics is a step most modelers do not perform. I'm sure as your a proficient(read excellent) plastic modeler, you know this Shane. If one was to read many free flight plans from Sterling and others, they actually suggest using plastic modeling cement for plastic/wood. The reason being most wood model cement is acetate and will not melt and adhere the plastic. Esp., if it's fuel proof wood cement. The older wood cement was cellulose, but they stopped making that about the time they changed from celluloid canopies to acetate. Only plastic model cement is cellulose. And some or all of that is probably acetate now. Cellulose/celluloid has pretty much been phased out. Most are Butyl.

I friend in N.H. emailed me he had the BAE Hawk kit, he will sell me for 200$. He has had it for years and will hold it for me, so he can see it built here. Another candidate for the McFuzz-Fan "65". I have one more 505 Evo rotor left. Found it during the moving clean-up...moving can be a good thing.

Fuzz

[QUOTE=St. Martin;45877301 I'm sure as your a proficient(read excellent) plastic modeler, you know this Shane.

Fuzz[/QUOTE]

I wasn't going to tell him this, I don't want his head to explode before we've finished the Hunters
Hope the move is going well Fuzz

The plastic cement seems to have worked OK, I've got a slight distortion in one of the panels right by the join but that is all there has been and it hasn't melted through it and caused any bubbling or anything sinister. More sinister has been a little goof I've made with the second side now corrected., Which I'll show when I get the pics posted up later.

In the past I've come across things like 'plastic weld' which pretty instantaneously melt whatever they can, including my barrack block sink (or the surface of it anyway)....though that may have been a reaction with traces of cleaner of tap water on the sink. before you ask I wasn't throwing it down the sink I thought I'd quickly rinse a brush under there before rinsing properly with the brush cleaners.

Any filler you need on the plastic, plastic model filler or the red automotive glazing putty works great. Here in the US we have Squadron plastic filler. It comes in white and green. White is course grain, which is best for us. I'm sure you have the equivalent over there. Most of these are cellulose base, so they do soften plastic a little for adhesion. But the plastic in the Hunter kit is quite thick. Fill the seams before any sanding. Then use a sanding block w/300. Dust a little baby powder or corn starch on it for dry lube. The paper will not clog.

Fuzz

Brilliant Fuzz,
Thank you. see I don't even need to ask. I'll order some up.

Vicky

No problemo, Vickyreno!

Hi Shane and All,

Before you gallop off into an early and uncontrollable lead, next time you are looking at this one I notice that the instructions talk about the gear pretty early on. If I'm going to cut holes in ply for them I'm going to need to know what gear I'm using. I'd pretty much like to go for something in the hitec range (since I've always seemed to get on well with them in the past) any recommendations or alternative suggestions for the shopping list for the gear for it would be much appreciated.

Thanks
Vicky

Originally Posted by fairweatherflyer

Hi Shane and All,

Before you gallop off into an early and uncontrollable lead, next time you are looking at this one I notice that the instructions talk about the gear pretty early on. If I'm going to cut holes in ply for them I'm going to need to know what gear I'm using. I'd pretty much like to go for something in the hitec range (since I've always seemed to get on well with them in the past) any recommendations or alternative suggestions for the shopping list for the gear for it would be much appreciated.

Thanks
Vicky

Hi Vicky,

For Hitec servos I would go with HS45 or perhaps HS40 (No ball bearing less torque, but better form factor, ie thinner and shorter). the latter is probably perfectly adequate for the job. I've even done the shopping for you but I haven't done any UK price hunting!
https://www.modelshopleeds.co.uk/cat...ducts_id=43026
https://www.modelshopleeds.co.uk/cat...oducts_id=1353

but for me, I'm going a different way (hey, what do you mean youre not surprised!). I have got to like Power HD servos and I'm going to use the same as I have in the Mig 15 and P-80 and that is Power HD DSM 44. A far better servo than the Hitec's (in my opinion!) and only slightly dearer. At only 7mm thick they can go further out in the wings to drive the ailerons at mid span (better than per plan driving from the aileron root end). I'll ditch that big heavy ply aileron servo mounting plate and make some nice little hatches like I did before.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Junsi-Corel.../dp/B01B998M28

Anyway I think I'm off to wrap some balsa around that nose....

Shane.
PS re the prospect of an early and uncontrollable lead, that is why I am planning another parallel build. ( this one a bit bigger though).

Originally Posted by Shane McMillan

Hi Vicky,


but for me, I'm going a different way (hey, what do you mean youre not surprised!). I have got to like Power HD servos and I'm going to use the same as I have in the Mig 15 and P-80 and that is Power HD DSM 44. A far better servo than the Hitec's (in my opinion!) and only slightly dearer. At only 7mm thick they can go further out in the wings to drive the ailerons at mid span (better than per plan driving from the aileron root end). I'll ditch that big heavy ply aileron servo mounting plate and make some nice little hatches like I did before.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Junsi-Corel.../dp/B01B998M28

Anyway I think I'm off to wrap some balsa around that nose....

Shane.
PS re the prospect of an early and uncontrollable lead, that is why I am planning another parallel build. ( this one a bit bigger though).

Hi Shane, OK so I need to work out now whether to stick to the plans or take the same option as you through this part of the build. You put in a good sales pitch for your version of it, and it will be easier to follow if I do the same. I dislike this kind of plagiarism but feel that it might be the right course of action this time.

Righto then,

After a couple of hours mucking about in the shed (no Vicky, not 'mucking out the shed'!) I now have a sheeted front fuselage section. Photos....

So, now I'm off to find something else to do while the rest of the field catches up..


Shane.

Originally Posted by fairweatherflyer

Hi Shane, OK so I need to work out now whether to stick to the plans or take the same option as you through this part of the build. You put in a good sales pitch for your version of it, and it will be easier to follow if I do the same. I dislike this kind of plagiarism but feel that it might be the right course of action this time.

Follow along! Isn't that the reason for this dual build in the first instance?

You may have to extend that battery tray rearward shane. Look at the pics on my thread. I had to splice another section on the original Easier to do now than later.(as I found out.

Fuzz