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May 17, 2005, 07:16 PM
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Arubaboy24's Avatar

E-starter building tips/ help.


I just purchased the e-starter kit (single prop), this will be my second airplane, and first "arf" plane. I have a few questions about it and on how to build it. So how exactly does the propeller go on? The instructions aren't very clear on that and the prop doesn't fit onto the threaded shaft. So how do I do that? Oh and if you have any tips on building it or suggestions please feel free to say them, that would be very helpful.
As far as setups go, what do you recommend. What radio, esc, and battery? Do I really need a computer radio? Or could I get this: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXJSH4**&P=0 (of course I would have to get another servo, but that's not a problem). Or if that one isnt good, what would you recommend. Also I want to stick with nimh/ nicd packs, as I don't feel safe with li-po's. So what battery would you recommend? And I'm looking for a longer runtime. Thanks!
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May 17, 2005, 08:33 PM
Smashes Things
RCTyp's Avatar
Arubaboy24,

Good Luck!

Just kidding. You have asked for a whole lot. There is an ultimate estarter thread that you would find interesting. In the thread in many places are tips and recommendations.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...mate+estarter+

The prop shaft with threads needs to have a nut put on it first, then the prop that will fit over the nut (the prop just slides on) and then a washer and another nut. All should be in your kit.

Computer radios are great. Not computer radios cost less but will not grow with you as much. It depends on what you want to spend and if you would be willing to upgrade later. I think it is safe to say that you will need at least a 4 channel radio, but it may take quite awhile to outgrow that.

Check out the estarter thread above for battery advice. It depends on the motor, 350 versus 400.

There are many build tips in the thread above. Hope this gets you started, and good luck

Typ
May 17, 2005, 09:43 PM
Registered User
Arubaboy24's Avatar
But for the prop, i'm saying that the prop doesn't even go onto the shaft, like the whole is too small or something. Should I drill it out more or just try and screw it onto the shaft? Oh ya, I saw that thread, I read a little of it, but that was before I got the plane, so I guess I'll have to check it out again. Oh and this kit has the 400 motor.
May 18, 2005, 05:49 AM
Smashes Things
RCTyp's Avatar
Go here for the list of recommends I wrote for the estarter. Starting at that point are also a bunch of good info.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&page=33&pp=15

I never had the 400 so I don't know and I never heard that. I would just drill it out.

Typ
May 18, 2005, 07:32 AM
Suspended Account
scratchandbash's Avatar
Building tips:
1. Reinforce the elev with bamboo or comparable rod.
2. Clear tape a length of about .020" music wire along the wing rear edge. this will keep it from tearing, caused by the rubber bands. All these foam wing/rubber band holdown types benefit from this.
May 18, 2005, 08:54 AM
WAA pilot #21
Vanning's Avatar
hehe, the prop fit confuses a lotta folks. The 400 motor uses a 4mm prop shaft, the 300 class uses 3mm. Some of GWS props have a 3mm hole, some have 4. In your case, just drill it out, but be careful to keep the drill straight & vertical.

That radio is nice, i have one. I have since bought a 6EXA comp radio & keep the 4yf as a trainer box for teaching friends. If you have the cash, Yes, a comp radio is great. You wont feel the need to buy a new radio later. If youd rather spread out your big purchases, the 4yf is fine. So is the GWS Dreamstarter for that matter. Oh, and i recommend a Hitec HS-81 or a GWS Naro servo. Lemme double-check to make sure your RX doesnt have those new funky Futaba micro plugs...
Dont forget the Speed controller. I recommend a Castle 20amp or a GWS ICS400.

For the battery, an 8cell KAN 650 pack will fit (i believe) without modification or for longest runtime an 8cell KAN 1050 but will require major hacking to the battery bay. The added weight is also very noticeable.
I recommend www.cheapbatterypacks.com, but if you wanted to keep everything in one order from tower, their Electrifly packs should work. You'll need 2/3A (1050~1100 mah) or 2/3AA (650~700mah). 8 cells. Nimh only.
May 18, 2005, 01:03 PM
Registered User
Is the 28 grams wt. diff. between the 650 and 1050 THAT noticeable?
May 18, 2005, 02:22 PM
Night Flying
Ron H's Avatar
Actually, it works out to 66 grams or 2.3oz. For comparison, a 400 weighs 2.6oz. Try flying a plane with an extra 400 strapped on, I think you'll see the difference.
May 18, 2005, 03:16 PM
Registered User
My bad - I meant 48 gr. I see your point about the extra weight though. I just didn't figure the Estarter was so sensitive to wt. but given the typical AUW, it makes sense.
May 18, 2005, 06:14 PM
WAA pilot #21
Vanning's Avatar
It is to an extent. Ive flown the ES with a 350 and a 7cell 1050 and its good. With the 2s lipo its a dream. A 3s lipo and a 400 is a great setup too. Something like a TP 1320~1500 or so. 3s wont fit in the battery bay though.
May 18, 2005, 06:21 PM
Registered User
Arubaboy24's Avatar
What are KAN cells? I've heard of them before, but never understood what they were. Is that just like saying GP3300? Can I charge them on a nicd/ nimh charger? I've been into rc cars for like 5 years now so I have a good peak charger. Ok, well then maybe i'll go with a computer radio. Would this one be good: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXJUV7**&P=0 ?
And I would really like to stick with nimh and nicd batts. Would I be better off buying a 350 motor? Or could I just stick with the 400?
May 18, 2005, 07:34 PM
Smashes Things
RCTyp's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arubaboy24
What are KAN cells? I've heard of them before, but never understood what they were. Is that just like saying GP3300? Can I charge them on a nicd/ nimh charger? I've been into rc cars for like 5 years now so I have a good peak charger. Ok, well then maybe i'll go with a computer radio. Would this one be good: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXJUV7**&P=0 ?
And I would really like to stick with nimh and nicd batts. Would I be better off buying a 350 motor? Or could I just stick with the 400?
I too have the 6Exa. I like it a lot and I don't think I will outgrow it unless I get into Heli's or something more exotic in planes than i have seen so far (I am still new to this but I have been through the very first phase).

KAN is a brand that people respect. The number is the number of milliamphours. So 650 is 650 milliamphours. There are two relevant numbers, the mAh and the volts. As far as I can tell the volts are the same per cell for all NiMh batteries. The 7 cell ones are about 8.4v and appropriate for 350 motors and somewhat OK performance for 400 motors. The 8 cells are better for 400 motors, but the cell size should be such that you do not have a huge pack. I don't know what to recommend for the 400 motor.

The radio in your link is a good one (IMHO) but it come bundled with some stuff that you may not want. You can get just the plane (ha ha ) radio for less than $100 and then add servo's and a receiver al'acarte (sp?). For the eStarter you need 3 servo's and a 4 channel radio.

People who I think are "in the know " on the forum really like the Berg receivers. They have less glitches than the GWS ones. All I know is that the GWS ones have some glitches but for the eStarter that is not tragic. I have moved to a Corsair now and a glitch at a high speed low pass is more of a problem. I just ordered a berg.


Write if you have more questions. I was where you are not too long ago.

Typ
May 18, 2005, 07:41 PM
Smashes Things
RCTyp's Avatar
Oh, and the volts per cell are much different for the LiPos. That is another whole discussion. If you already have a Nimh charger, just start with a Nimh battery and learn to fly. It probably will not be too long until you go Lipo, but the $15 you put into the Nimh battery is not much of a throw away. The Lipos have many other considerations including a more expensive ESC, danger when crashing, more expensive charger etc.

One more thing, I would recommend the ICS480 speed controller since it is only about $14 comared to about the $10 for the ICS300 (or is it 350?). That adds flexibility but you will have to cut wires and solder more.

One more tip, Deans Ultra connectors for the batter and ESCs. They are heavy duty. You will have to solder them on but they work. Also the instructions are wrong so put the female one on the battery.

Typ
May 18, 2005, 09:37 PM
Registered User
Arubaboy24's Avatar
Ya, I have been looking at lipo's and I'm definetely going to stay away from them, for now at least. So KAN is just the brand? Just like in "GP3300" where GP is the brand of the cell? (GP cells rule) A brand of nimh/ nicd (not sure which one) battery cell? Ya, I use deans with my rc car battery, they are awsome, they knock the socks off those tamiya type battery plugs, I fried those suckers. And so would I be better off with a 350 size motor? Oh and thanks for all the comments, they have been very helpful!
May 19, 2005, 05:24 AM
WAA pilot #21
Vanning's Avatar
Yes GP cells do rock, And they make cells that'll fit the ES as well - they just cost a lot more than KANs. Peruse the website www.cheapbatterypacks.com and see whats available.
As for the 400, it'll be fine assuming you feed it well. 400 motors like voltage. less than 8cells wont fly it to its potential. 3cell lipo (11volts) kick butt.
300/350's dont like volts. 7cell maximum for those.
The 400 is two to three times more durable. Huge brushes, magnets (heat dissipation) and the gearbox/shaft is much beefier too. That all comes with a weight penalty.
I would stick with the 400 for now and get a kan 650 8-cell pack or two.


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