Piper J-3 Cub Balsa Wood RC Laser Cut Airplane Kit 1800mm/70" (for electric or I.C.)

Experience the thrill and satisfaction of building your very own model from a kit of parts, covering it in your own unique color scheme and watching it fly successfully for the very first time...


From HobbyKing

H-King have made this much easier for you with their range of laser cut kits. For ease of construction all the wooden parts are beautifully laser cut so you can build the perfect model. The laser cutting is so accurate that the parts fit very snugly together allowing them to hold in place whilst you run a good CA glue around the joints.

The subject of this kit is the popular American light aircraft the Piper J-3 Cub. The Piper aircraft company built the Cub in large numbers and it became a firm favorite due to its simplicity, ruggedness, affordability and great flying characteristics. The large wing enabled it to fly very slowly and its benign handling made it an excellent trainer. There are many examples still flying today and they were also used in every theater of war during WW2 with a distinguished career as an air ambulance and observer or spotter plane, one of these was the last aircraft in air to air combat in Europe. So when construction is complete you can finish your model in a variety of color schemes whether it be military or civil, the classic Piper Cub yellow of course being a popular choice.

This kit is an updated version of the original H-King Piper Cub. The improvements over the original version are; streamlined wing struts, improved undercarriage assembly, improved pushrod system, 3 layer tailplane construction for added strength, fiberglass firewall, tail mounted servos for I.C. version, improved battery/fuel tank access and added scale detail. This model captures the very essence of the Piper Cub with its solid yet lightweight framework structure as per the full size aircraft but is built from balsa and hardwoods and includes a molded plastic cowl and windscreen. Also supplied are a pair of scale aircraft wheels, carbon tube wing spars and joiners plus a comprehensive hardware pack that includes nuts, bolts, control horns, rods and connectors etc.

The Piper J-3 Cub has been designed to use either a 35~42mm brushless outrunner motor with 500~600 watts of power or an equivalent gas/nitro engine. No flaps are fitted to the full size or the model so all you require is a 4 channel radio with 4/5 servos, all this keeps it nice and simple.

Overall this is a fantastic kit and due to its ease of construction, it is perfect for the seasoned builder or those with limited building experience. Once finished in an authentic color scheme and with the addition of scale accessories such as a pilot and instrument panel this scale looking Piper Cub will look the part and turn heads when performing lazy aerobatics or low, slow passes at your local flying field.


Laser cut parts for accuracy and ease of construction Fiberglass firewall Carbon spars and wing tubes Molded plastic cowl and glazing Sprung loaded and functional landing gear Authentic streamlined wing struts Comprehensive hardware pack


  • Wingspan: 1800mm (70")
  • Fuselage Length: 1150mm (45")
  • Flying Weight: 2.8Kg approx (will depend on power train chosen)
  • Motor: 3520~4250 (500~600 watt) brushless outrunner motor or gas/nitro equivalent
  • ESC: 60~80A suitable for up to 6S Lipo battery
  • Propeller: 11" or larger depending on power train chosen
  • Battery: 3000~6000mah 4~6S Lipo battery

Learn More

Go to HobbyKing for more info on this plane...

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Aug 21, 2020, 12:26 PM
Registered User

its the "dancing wings" piper cub

Nothing new and even hobbyking already had this one before.
Got one and can't really recomend it.
Its clearly not designed by a experienced modeler; for example the "struts" are heavy sollid strips of soft aluminium.(NOT "streamlined")
The landing gear is a joke ; some furniture hinges bolted to aliminium plates and lite ply at the other.
The door.... really ? not scale in any way.
There are no cap strips on the ribs so those need to be modefied to make room for them.
Tubes are GLASS not carbon and there is no instructions on how to keep the wings from sliding of the 2 tubes. Small self taping screws are not going to be strong enough nor will last being taken apart more then a few times (expected lifespan of the model ?)
Mounted hooks on the root ribs that screw into blocks that are glued to the spar. Slots in the fuse to poke trough and then a rubber band between the hooks secures the wing in a way that is easy to undo at the field and will last.
Added captive nuts at all places that may need to be taken apart like struts, landing gear and firewall.
Pusrods are the red sullivan supported at every former for a smooth strong connection between the servo and rudderhorn.
Used proper hinges and on the tail removed the hinge pins and replaced it with a single long piece of music wire so the rudder and elevator can be removed for service and repair if needed

But the biggest "joke" MINE HAD WOODWORM !! serious So had to replace some of the balsa that makes up the tail.

Good is that when its on sale its cheap and most of the issue an be corrected if you are into scratch building and don't mind to replace almost all hardware.
So challanging "project" sure , simple "quick and easy" low cost model ... not so much
Last edited by cmulder; Aug 21, 2020 at 12:43 PM.
Aug 21, 2020, 12:43 PM
Registered User
racer256's Avatar
It looks like one of those planes the Wright brothers flew. I'm pretty sure I have a picture of this plane. I believe there is a replica in our Air and Space Museum in Dayton, Ohio. I'm gonna have to go look at my pictures on my social media page. Definitely a cool place to check out next time you're in the states. Just make sure you have an ID or passport.

Adding: Nope, the Wright Brothers plane is in DC. Never been there but I wanna see the Smithsonian museum. The Dayton is the Air Force Museum. Still a thumbs up place to visit and we've been there several times but they have a Piper L4-A Grasshopper which is the military version of this exact plane.
Last edited by racer256; Aug 21, 2020 at 12:52 PM. Reason: Comments
Aug 21, 2020, 03:44 PM
Entropy is happening!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar

Mostly good!

I am building one of these. I bought the kit second hand, still in the box unopened for A$100, which seemed cheap.
This is my first kit plane in many decades: I mainly build self designed, composite models and some built up from Pauwlonia.
The work in the laser cutting design and cutting is impressive, I think. I'm enjoying building it. There were only one or two small mistakes in the wood framing work.
I am now making a much better and lighter undercarriage than the rather crude one supplied. I will take some pics when I have it done and post here.
I have some large soft wheels that might have been for a Timber or similar craft.
Also, I am making lighter and more streamlined struts than the basic guillotined aluminium ones supplied. The sub struts (strut stabilisers) will be from bent bike spokes and will be foldable for transport.
Lastly, I am cutting the wing control surfaces in two to include flaps.

More later...........

Last edited by Jim.Thompson; Aug 21, 2020 at 03:52 PM.
Aug 21, 2020, 04:47 PM
Registered User

streamlined struts

Did not make any struts yet but am thinking of taking a 4mm carbon tube and glue that against balsa.
Then sand the balsa down to end up with the teardrop shape.
Cover with the same film as used on the plane.
Glue a tread coupler like used for clevis in the tube and a ball joint screwed on that as coupeling.

The design of this kit is mediocre even compaird to for example the goldberg piper cub.
It is a good base for kit bashing though ; not much to loose if it does not work out.
Mine is "awaiting motivation" the wings are done; covered and decorated , even the servo's are in place. The tail is covered but the hinges still have to be glued in, The fuse is also covered but still needs to be decorated. Will leave the "windows" closed and just simulate them with black (the whole model is yellow with black "sun burst" stripes.

WHen covering tried to avoid seams as much as possibe so the wings are covered starting from the top trailing edge, wrap around the bottom , over the leading edge and sealed around the trailing edge again with as much tention as i could pull onto the film, then sealed the bottom of the wing tips and then the top and around the wing root rib.
A heatgun with a oven glove was used to tighten the film and push it into the wood. This way there is no leading edge seam to get loose over tme. Same for the rear of the fuse; started at the top stringer on the tail wraped arround to the top again, Did need to cut at the corners of the fuse and the with of the film reached to past the rear windows. the front part is also most just one and the nose is black.
Used the hobbyking "chinacote" film and must admit for the price its quite good so far. Have to see how it will hold up in the sun outside .

Am contemplating if to make the tail a bolt on unit to make storing and transport easier
Mine will be engine powered but have not desided on either glow or petrol. A .40 woudl fly it "scale performance" and the 9cc ignition one should be a little more powerfull and much longer flight times.
Last edited by cmulder; Aug 21, 2020 at 04:59 PM.
Aug 21, 2020, 04:54 PM
Registered User
racer256's Avatar
^^Did I have the right "model" to show you? Won't the colors fade in the sun?? I honestly think the black will fade over time but I would think you could repaint it if it's able to be. You talk about a heat gun, is that same as a hot glue gun? If not, can you not use a hot glue gun on wood? Any pictures or video when done with your product??

Is it a good thing to start out for a beginner? Easy to put together? I know my husband and I have been talking about drones or as y'all call them, quads, but now I am beginning to understand why you do this. Fun hobby that my hubby and I can enjoy together. Easy to fly? If I "crash and burn" is it fixable most of the time?

If you ever come to the states, you'll have a tour guide of the museum. My hubby and I've been there several times.
Last edited by racer256; Aug 21, 2020 at 05:26 PM. Reason: Added comments.
Aug 21, 2020, 06:00 PM
My Quads Better Than Your Quad
racedouge1's Avatar
The thing is 109 dollars...Smash it into the ground and build another, You'll still be ahead.
Aug 21, 2020, 06:06 PM
Registered User
racer256's Avatar
Well that's good to hear that it is only $109. Maybe we should start with an airplane instead of a quad but now I'm 1000x more interested in quads after watching youtube videos��. Still cheaper than going to zillions of WWE shows (over $150/ticket each show times 2!)��. Maybe I should've met cmulder 20 years ago when he me to come visit him!
Aug 22, 2020, 04:02 AM
Registered User
Having built and flown one, powered by sc48 four stroke, I can say that this is not suitable as a trainer. The take off is scale with a tendency to swing that has to be caught with rudder. Turns must be made with rudder and aileron to look OK. Otherwise it flies well and lands well, the undercarraige though appearing crude works well. I hold the wings on with a bolt through the fuselage into a captive nut in the wing root, the hatch in the roof is removeable for access to the bolt. I did modify the starboard door to open like the full size but there is not enough wood in the fuselage to make the door the correct size and it is too small. Overall a kit that is easy to build and can be easily improved with a little work, a good flier for a pilot with some flying experience.

Aug 24, 2020, 05:58 PM
Registered User
jgg12002's Avatar

Get a Sig cub instead

Doesn’t look very scale with that landing gear / door / stubby nose. The Sig cub is $108 and comes with great quality gear and you can slip the battery through the scale door and window area. The sig cub fly’s like a dream.
Just my 2 cents
Aug 24, 2020, 06:05 PM
Rabid Rabbit
PookaHat's Avatar
Originally Posted by jgg12002
Doesn’t look very scale with that landing gear / door / stubby nose. The Sig cub is $108 and comes with great quality gear and you can slip the battery through the scale door and window area. The sig cub fly’s like a dream.
Just my 2 cents
Are you talking about this one? https://sigmfg.com/collections/sig-k...er-j-3-cub-kit
Aug 25, 2020, 01:09 AM
Entropy is happening!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar
Originally Posted by jgg12002
Doesn’t look very scale with that landing gear / door / stubby nose. The Sig cub is $108 and comes with great quality gear and you can slip the battery through the scale door and window area. The sig cub fly’s like a dream.
Just my 2 cents

I have no doubts about that. However, due to prohibitive international US shipping rates, it kind of excludes anything from the US for most of us outside of America. Given that a lot of us a budget for our hobby.
I don't have enough experience to argue with what you claim.

Last edited by Jim.Thompson; Aug 25, 2020 at 05:28 AM.
Aug 26, 2020, 01:44 PM
Registered User
E-Challenged's Avatar
When I look at laser-cut light ply (?) model designs, I think "too heavy" as compared to traditional balsa/ply "stick-model" designs. After poor experience with an overweight Maxford model, I would not likely buy a model kit designed like the subject one.
Aug 26, 2020, 03:36 PM
Entropy is happening!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar
Originally Posted by E-Challenged
When I look at laser-cut light ply (?) model designs, I think "too heavy" as compared to traditional balsa/ply "stick-model" designs. ..................................
I can see what you mean.
However, the only reason I am building one is that my local small flying group has at least 3 of these flying and members have been coercing me for some time to build a kit that one of them had stored never built. He sold it to me half price.
All of them fly well at slow speeds even though they are over the 2 kg AUW range. They are almost in the "floater" category in my estimation.
But................I don't have much electric powered model experience.
Aug 28, 2020, 04:52 PM
Entropy is happening!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar

Flaps or not?

I am at the stage I will have to choose wether or not to cut the ailerons in half to make flaps/ailerons, or to go with just ailerons.
My flying buddies who have these advocated the fitting of flaps.
Not sure yet.


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