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Mar 09, 2006, 07:35 PM
Registered User

correction to wing warrior hints

3. used strapping tape only on bottom span only(about 5 inches of tape spanwise.)

should read:
3. used strapping tape only on bottom span only full length (about 5 inches of tape across chord .) plenty stiff
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Mar 10, 2006, 02:45 PM
Registered User

figure 8 sewing of elevon-zap

forgot to mention....after sewing figure 8 joining the elevon to wing you need to apply foam safe zap to the portion of the sewing that passes thru the wing or elevon. this prevent the thread from slippjng when air loads are applied which would allow the elevon to move up and down at the leading edge. its ok to get the into all of the sewing....doesnt seem to alter the pivot ability at all...
Mar 10, 2006, 03:15 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
gone fishing
Last edited by FRAMEDNLVS; Aug 04, 2006 at 02:34 PM.
Mar 10, 2006, 04:11 PM
Registered User

power setup for wild wing

Great that a simple tape works. Whatever works that keeps the front ege of the elevon from moving up and down is important.

Am using kms21 motor, kms 18 amp controller, 1200 mah hyperion lipo and EP 8040 prop. This is larger than recommended prop, but seems to be a very efficient prop; very thin and lightweight; gets 30 minute flight time in cruise mode yet can go fast (no speed est). At full power draws 13 amps and estimated 2.5 amps in altitude sustaining flight. very good accidental selection of components. Total weight is a little over 13 oz. with no covering tape...anyone else experimented with props with good luck??? attached photos of mods
Last edited by pkfoamer; Mar 10, 2006 at 09:59 PM. Reason: add photos
Mar 11, 2006, 01:41 PM
Registered User
Let's see some videos....
Last edited by whyfly; Mar 11, 2006 at 08:20 PM.
Mar 11, 2006, 06:48 PM
never2old's Avatar

Ww Te

Anybody run a CF spar in front of the TE and not use the included ones?

Maybe I'm missing somethng but the three piece CF rod across the TE doesn't make sense to me. I don't see where it adds any structural strength.

And yes - videos would be cool...

Mar 11, 2006, 07:41 PM
Registered User

3 piece spar is weak

I think the granular epp is very weak at the trailing edge and would crumble from handling. They may have included the CF spars to give a strength to the edge. For sure since the 3 piece spar is not straight and not joined at the 2 places where it meets, it is not of any value as a load supporting spar. To keep the trailing edge from ripping at the joints i epoxied in a very short piece of wire to keep the 3 spars from moving and ripping the wing at the 2 joints. This seems to work so far. The front spars keep most of the wing stiff but do not support the wing in the middle. The strapping tape i used running straight for tip to tip on the bottom and about 5 inches wide (2 2 1/2 widths of tape) is what is doing 90% of the job of keeping the wing from snapping in half in a serious pull-out!!! Was able to keep the wing light with this approach.

I sealed in the two front spars with tape to eliminate the spanwise trench that would be exposed to the lower slipstream. Dont know if this is of any value, cant hurt, i guess.
Mar 11, 2006, 10:02 PM
Happy Trees
m4rs's Avatar
Mine is as stiff as a board, and tough as nails. The only thing I dont like about this kit is the fins. At $19 I expect to overcome some hurdels.
Mar 12, 2006, 09:20 AM
never2old's Avatar
Thanks PK - that makes sense now. I was thinking of maybe epoxying a strip of CF tape across the TE, but I'll stick with the rods. And for $20.00, who cares if i isn't perfect! As long as it flies. I've got and Align 2800KV looking for a home. I'm going to try this motor with a TP 3S 2100 and a 5.5X4.5.

As for the fins, I'm thinking of dumping the ones in the kit and cutting some larger winglets out of 2mm coro. Looks like it will be fun!

Mar 13, 2006, 10:19 AM
High Altitude Flyer
viking60's Avatar

Wild Wing Modifications

New alternate spars, Trailing Edge, Fins, & Motor mount : a build progress report.

After reading other's contributions in this thread, I looked at the Wild Wing core and kit version spar layout, and agreed that there was need of some kit-bashing in several areas.

My concept was to build it up light, for flying either with (or without) a very light weight outrunner brushless motor and a 2 cell LiPoly battery. The motor I am using is a GBv kit motor I built, using a CC Thunderbird 9 ESC, for a weight of only 1-1/4 ounces for the combination. (The flight batery can be as light as two ounces if the wing can be balanced with that light of a battery in the nose.)

(1) I wanted to achieve some span-wise structural strength with a minimum of weight; flexing the bare wing core made it apparent that the forward center needed a good cross-spar in the main weight / flight load bearing area. So I took the shortest of the 5 CF tubes provided in the kit, routed a slot with the Dremel router across at the the rear end of the battery mounting area (as shown in the photo) set deep enough so that the outer ends were just at the foam surface, and epoxied it in place. The flight battery fits forward of this added spar, with the lead running under the spar back to the ESC's connector. (More foam can always be removed for final balancing via battery placement adjusting if necessary.)

(2) The three piece tubular trailing edge did not appeal to me from a couple of standpoints; I decided instead to install a one-piece spanwise spar. I am using a 1/8" diameter C.F. Tube that is 29-1/2" long (from ) I again used the Dremel router to route a channel into the foam for this spar. It's 2-1/4" forward from the center section trailing edge.

(3) The motor mount approach was a major issue; others have already spoken of the incorrect incidence / thrust line of the stock molded plastic motor mount. I was already intending to use a different style of motor, and wanted to install it right into the core of the wing, with the wing oriented at roughly one to two degrees positive incidence relative to the motor's thrust line. (I also wanted the option of removing the motor from it's mount quickly and easily, to be able to fly this same Wild Wing on the slope without the power system installed, installing a receiver battery instead.)

Since I built the GoBrushless kit motor with a brass tube mount, I added a plastic tube outer bushing onto another section of the 1/8" tubular C.F., to slip fit inside if the motor's brass tube. (A small screw will be used to lock the motor in place on the mount shaft while flying.)

I routed a channel into the wing's underside for this C.F. tube motor mount; it's front end is just below the radio hatch cover seating surface, while the rear end places the motor centered on the wing's trailing edge. I inset the motor mount position forward into the foam so that the prop will just clear the trailing edge by roughly 1/4"; (keeping weight forward is a good thing!)

(4) I wanted a definite clean hinge line for the ailerons. (The round tube wasn't going to offer this.) I sorted through my 1/4" balsa triangle stock to find a fairly dense / strong grained piece, trimmed the foam back a bit. and epoxied the two sub-trailing edges in place flush with the wing's upper surface. I trimmed away the excess balsa flush with the lower surface after the epoxy had set. With the 45 degree bevel on the balsa sub-trailing edge, the ailerons can now be hinged without beveling their leading edge; (I prefer tape hinges, using 3/4" wide Scotch 'multipurpose' clear tape on both top and underside.)

Oh, and I also filled in that funky notch in the ailerons with more balsa, too!

(5) I wanted the fins / vertical stabilizers to be more solidly attached into the wing core, and I also wanted to enlarge them a bit and extend them below the trailing edge; There's a 2mm wide slot behind the rear wing spar into which these new 2mm coroplast fins will be epoxied once the covering is completed. (see photo.) [The lower extensions of these new fins should also help protect the motor and prop on landings.

I'll be installing HITEC HS-81MG servos, and using a BERG 4L receiver in this Wild Wing. The next step is to get it outside and spray it down with some 3M77 spray prior to adding a modest amount of 3/4" wide nylon filament tape in a few select locations, then adding some covering and trim for high visibility. I'll report further once this light wing is flying!

(Other projects are detailed on my web site: I've been building Electric powered RC aircraft since the mid-1980s. I also build slope ships, foamies, float & ski planes. A page on the Wild Wing bash wil go up once this aircraft is flying.)

Mar 13, 2006, 07:55 PM
Happy Trees
m4rs's Avatar
Cool B, we'll have to race em, or combat em! Id like to do some streamer combat. what is the auw?
Mar 14, 2006, 12:20 AM
Registered User

viking mods

great mods!!!!..the spars across to bottom is the ideal way fix this "design"....they gave us enuf CF rod to do the job right....just that it was cut up into too many pieces.!!!! I dont think the original designer had much in mind except to somehow stiffen up the piece of foam he was given, and just put a few pieces here and there and hope for the best. The c.g. of the final assy is too far back per their instructions....needs to be about 1/2 in forward of specified location....very efficeint wing. flew 35 minutes this morning on cruise control down to 9 volt cutoff..using 1200 mah 3 cell lipo, bp21 motor and ep 8040 prop......launching is easiest by holding wing tip and sidearm throwing it while engine power is up.
Mar 14, 2006, 08:55 AM
High Altitude Flyer
viking60's Avatar

I'm building this one *light*; it should flying at roughly 11 to 11-1/2 ounces when covered & trimmed, but it's a bit early to get a final weight estimate; the final balancing will dictate which battery pack I end up flying, & affect the flying weight.


Thanks for the comments; I've never built a flying wing without wing tip plates; being able to discus-launch it with the motor powered up sounds like a great technique!
Mar 15, 2006, 10:11 AM
Registered User

vert stabilizers fall off

I bonded the fins in place using a variety of materials. nothing seems to stick to this epp skin. One came loose in high speed flight, i guess it fluttered. Anyway, ended up bonding 3 short pieces of ny-rod in each fin with ca safe cy and melted 3 holes in the foam put a drop of gorrila glue in each hole. The nyrod seems to have a little give, so maybe thay wont snap off when if carwheel it. Has stayed on good so far. attached photo
Mar 15, 2006, 10:03 PM
Registered User

My Wild Wing Mods

This is my 3rd Sport Flyers Wild Wing. My first Wild Wing was built per instructions and resulted in a frustrating unflyable aircraft. I probably wouldn't be alone in stating "If you build the Wild Wing per the included instructions, it most likely will not fly worth a darn". However, once you locate the correct CG and properly mount the motor, she flies well and fast.

Here are some mods I made to my wing:

The battery- I'm using a 3C 1250 Lipo mounted from the top and on it's edge. I did not like opening the bottom hatch to swap out the battery for several reasons. 1) I couldn't get the battery far enough forward for correct CG. 2) Grass trimmings and dirt got inside after belly landings, even worse if there was any morning dew. For this mod, I had to cut through the top down to the existing battery hatch. I chose this orientation for battery cooling and also to have as much of the original EPP foam at the nose for structural integrity.

The Receiver-I bought this Wing on sale for 19.99 and Hobby People included at free Cirrus 4 Ch receiver, what a deal. I cut a perfectly sized hole to accomodate the receiver from the top. It is on the right side near the nose and further out from the centerline of the aircraft to balance out the ESC which is on the left side and slightly off centerline (See photo of electronics layout). I use an Exacto to score the wing deep enough to bury the receiver's antennae. Pushed it below the foam's skin with my finger nail (time consuming). The corplast battery hatch was permanently taped in place.

Motor: I wanted to use the original motor mount. Prior to the build and to insure the CG would be correct, I taped all the appropriate parts in their correct locations. Then I positioned the wing to hang it's nose off the edge of a table at it's desired CG. I then moved the motor and mount forward until it balanced, marked the location and cut out the foam to accept the new position. I new this cut would be required, so I did not use the smallest carbon fiber rod. I placed the spare carbon fiber rod just behind the battery hatch (see photo of bottom) I used a soldering iron and a straight metal ruler to melt away an channel to accept it (warning: This is a very risky manuever and foam melts fast. I practiced on scrap foam many times before the real thing. Your best bet would be a dremel) Rod was then laid in with epoxy. The motor i'm using is an Align 400 brushless. I opted for a single zip tie to hold it in place. To keep the motor can from rotating the zip tie has a portion of shrink wrap on it. As veterans of the Wild Wing know, the thrust line of the stock mount is all out of whack. I fixed it by cutting a small section of a large zip tie and shimmed it under the end of the can. I just used small sections of strapping tape to secure it and the pressure from the motor also hold it in place. I found that I could slightly adjust the thrust angle by cinching down on the zip tie around the motor. I'm starting with a thrust angle almost parallel to the bottom of the wing. I've had success with this angle in the past. If this isn't enough angle, then the tape can be removed and I can layer another zip tie section for additional shim.

I sanded the EPP Foam and cleaned it throughly with rubbing alcohol before any taping. I did not use any 3m77 on my 2nd wing and didn't have a problem, so i didn't use it here except on the balsa elevons. Any time I taped, I cleaned with alcohol prior. My covering is Ekonocote.

I am not using: Rubber bands, Bottom skid, control horn clevices, red packing tape and the wooden sticks.

Hope to maiden this wing tomorrow if the winds every drop below 20 Kts. Wish me luck.

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