Planning ahead is quite important as in waterproofing and painting the inside of the hull before you close off access and before you mount RC and power systems components and wiring. Also a good idea to mock-up and adjust location and mounting of battery pack(s) and other weighty items to achieve proper balance of hull in the water when you have the outer hull waterproof and removable cabin assembled in place. (similar to model plane assembly to check CG ) . Having a good check-off list of items you have already, items to buy and sources, and ordering ahead so that progress is not delayed , and updating list as needed, is another good idea. Looks like you have things under control. I am about to start cleanup refinishing, and modernizing my CC 63 Foot motor yacht that has been sitting on the shelf for over ten years. Also have Sterling Century Sea Maid about 1/2 finished. I bought the dilapidated model from a young man who had inherited it from an uncle. Had to add missing mahogany rails and side curtains (plastic window shade material). I hollowed out leadloy running lights and spot light and installed grain of wheat bulbs that seem to last forever. I found some faux incandescent lights and fixtures in a model train shop that mount in the overhanging structure over the rear deck. I hand carved grampa and grampa figures sitting on mahogany deck furniture watching a portable TV with a gow bulb inside and a piece of 35mm slide film to simulate a color TV screen. Doll house minatures look about right scale. I have a bicycle horn that beeps, interior cabin lights, rotating search light and other stuff actuated by small servos , micro switches and pushrods with "cams" to operate the microswitches. I will probably convert old brush motor and speed control to brushless with reverse, and round cells to Lipos. I may replace servos, and cam-operated micro switches with electronic switches. Thought you might be interested !

Didn't your 63 play music as well? OBW has his engines mounted upside down hanging in mid air.

I laid on the starboard side double balsa sheet this afternoon. I found that Windex with ammonia works pretty well to soften and allow the sheet to form to the side of the hull. As the plan suggested, I used lots and lots of pins to hold it in place while the glue dries. I ended up using a hobby C-clamp in the triangle corner of the sheet. The discovered the sheet had a hairline crack that opened when I started pinning the sheet in place. The clamp held the crack together. The sheet fit perfectly to the hull and lined up nicely with the chine and top gunnel of the top deck sheer.

Originally Posted by norgale

Didn't your 63 play music as well? OBW has his engines mounted upside down hanging in mid air.

No, but a small cassette player or mini-tape recorder would work for deck talk and 50's music

I worked on the port side skins this afternoon. Windex certainly does a great job of softening the balsa sheeting and making it he sheet flexible to make the curves. Both sides and he port side bottom are now on and drying.

I’m planning to add the bow balsa blocks and start the planking process of the bow next on my task list.

It’s my intention to cover the hull, once it is done with fiberglass cloth and resin.

I’m also starting to think about the power system I’ll put in this boat. I’m going to use a dual electrical motor and two rudders. Does anyone have a recommendation of a motor system that you would recommend for a boat like this.

Don

The last piece of bottom balsa sheet went on today. Nest step is to start the bow planking process.

Looking good.

Started the bow planking process this morning. 4 planks on and who knows how many more... This is going to take a while.

Started laying down the bottom hull planking today. Slowly making progress. Lots of pins and glue...

Continuing to build out the bottom hull planking.

.Last piece of planking went in on the bottom starboard side. Start on the port side next.

Laid the last piece of bottom planking this afternoon. I’ll let the model dry overnight and then start the sanding process.

Started shaping the bow and keel balsa blocks this afternoon. I used a coping saw to cut away as much balsa as I dared to cut off. I then used a 120 grit sand paper to start shaping the bow and planked front of the hull, being very careful not to sand away what I have created. The port side top of the bow has been roughly sanded in the correct contour.

Finished the rough shaping the bow and front keel today with 120 grit sandpaper. My next step is to completely sand the entire with 220 grit and fill in any dings and hold with balsa filler. The 120 grit sand paper left the finish pretty rough. The 220 grit should smooth it out quite a bit.

I’m at the point where I now want a smooth hull and bow on this model. I was able to smooth out most of the planks so that they are contoured with those on either side, but there were some planks that just wouldn’t cooperate. I have used Bondo Glazing Putty on several others models and thought, why not. I applied it with a plastic applicator and now allowing it to dry. Next, I’ll come back and sand and apply more glazing putty if needed.

I’m planning to attach the transom next in my build process. A question for those who have done this before me, If I stain the transom with mahogany stain, will it look ok after the hull is fiberglassed? Is there anything I should be aware of before I start down that path?

Don