Back to the first wings I have completed before (one with no ailerons). I gave the whole wings a sanding, gradually moving to a smooth sand paper.

Then I spent an evening reading through all those pages on a wonderful thread here on rcgroups on how to work with Solite by Martin Hunter, found here:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...arfilm+solite+

Btw, I had ordered the Coverite 21st Century Microlite, which is "So-lite".

I proceeded with the covering. I did not experience the film rolling back on to itself once I had removed the protecting mylar film from it. Not sure if it was the static that held it down, or the fact that I unrolled the whole roll and let it rest flat for a few minutes. I did what the article suggested that tacking down the tips and then the edges first with the heat-iron, and then using a heatgun and shrink the film. Then I continued with the heat-iron to push down on the areas where the plastic is in contact with the balsa, to ensure the film sticks on all surfaces. I never used this "So-lite" before, I previously used monokote, but I found this so-lite to have an incredible shrinking characteristics. All the wrinkles disappeared easily. Also, I dont find this film to be fragile or weak. I mean if you push your finger in an open bay, it will resist you a bit. Of course monokote is stronger. I think I should stop here, I am getting over excited. I chose to put dark blue on the bottom of the wings and white on top. As mentioned previously, the white is translucent milky color, whereas the dark blue is fairly opaque.

Anyway, here is the covered regular wings and the stab/elev.

getting close , nice work..

cheers
doug

Thanks doug.

Ok, here is the modification I did to use 1 servo for both ailerons but on a 2 piece wing. I like how the plans shows using a single servo and flexible pushrods, but it was for a single piece wing. I wanted to make a simple mod with minimal alteration. I'll get into more of the advantage to this way at the end.

To start off, I should say that it would be better to do this way DURING the construction of the wings, rather after, like I did here. It would be much easier, but oh well.

Firstly, I marked off using a pen all the places where the BOTTOM of the wing is in contact with anything solid on the fuse. In my case I have a wing mount place in the fuse which would contact the leading and trailing edges. In the middle there is a former. Then I marked off where the ribs suppose to be on the wing, which you can't see since its sheeted. I also marked where the pushrod tubes are. Then, I measured how long and wide the pushrod cuplets or sleeves are and the amount of travel required. Then I added some extra dimension to these measurements.

Next, I marked off a slot which will be cut out for the pushrod ends on the wings. Note, I only did this on the BOTTOM of the wing, not top. When the slot is being cut, only cut the bottom and side of the wing, again, the top is not cut.

I then realised that when I will add webs to the sides of the slot, that will decrease the open space. So I cut 3/32 on either ends of this slot to compansate.

At the end of the slot I cut an indentation to the sides of it, this will be for a web to go in and to increase surface contact for it....too complicated to explain for me, but you will see in the photo what I mean.

Then, I cut webs from a 3/32" balsa sheet and glued them into place. Sanded the bottom of the wing smooth.

Here is a photo of the pushrod end inside the slot. Then same thing is done to the other wing. I made sure that the slot openings of both wings are inline with each other.

The single servo will be basically outside the wing, on the bottom. This will be located over the spar and infront of the leading edge. The reason for this location is that it is exactly on the C.G. so no nose weight or tail weight is required. The servo horn or wheel on my case will be exactly positioned at the center where both wings meet.

Next, I will make a servo mount to hold the servo. This mount will be glued on to only one wing. Screws will hold the servo to the mount. The good thing about this is that when you do not want to use ailerons, then unscrew and disconnect the servo and take it out and then tape the aileron's so that it will not move while in flight.

I should note that the slot is located just behind the spars, facing trailward. The servo control arm or wheel here dips into this slot, so the pushrod ends do not protrude out.

The modified aileron version of the wings is now completed.

Back to the fuse. Here is a photo of the wing mounts I have included. I had basically cut out a rectangle of 2 layers of 1/16" ply...to get a 1/8" thickness and I glued that on top of a 3/16" thick balsa. I glued this whole thing at the formers where the wing is mounted onto the fuse. I put one at the leading edge and the other at the trailing edge. I lowered it down into the fuse about 1/16" down from the rim of the fuse because the center of the whole wing is angled down by the dihedral.

I decided to drill a hole at the leading edge and the trailing edge, about 1/4"-1/2" inward from the edges. Each wing will have 2 screws holding it onto the fuse. This may be overkill, but it doesn't hurt. I used 1/8" diamter brass screws.

I decided to go about drilling holes like this, first I joined both wings together and taped off the edges. Then I positioned the wing onto the fuse, making sure the center of where both wings are joined is positioned at the center of the formers. Then, I added a pin at the center of the nose, and attached a single thin wire (a string will do nicely as well). I pulled the other end of this wire to one of the wing tip, marked it with a marker. Then I pulled the same string to the other wing tip. Now, I checked if the "marked" spot on the wire is same for the wing tip as for the other wing. It was. The wing is now centered. If the marking was longer or shorter than the wing tip of the other wing, it means the wing is not aligned in center, and adjustments needs to be made and re-tested.

Now, I got some pins, and pinned down the wings into the fuse. This is to make sure the wing does not move while I am drilling. I planned on drilling the holes into the wing and into the wing mounts of the fuse all at the same time. This garantees that both holes will be aligned. Using a dremal, I installed a drill bit slightly smaller in diameter than 1/8". Carefully, holes were drilled out, while constantly checking the dremal is at 90 degrees on all directions.

Once that was done, using some downward force, the screws were screwed into the wing and mount. I did a test on how long it takes to screw in both wings, with this setup. It takes about 2 minutes to screw in 4 screws, a little longer than what I expected, but its ok for now.

Words of caution, its better to use a "square" holed screws or "alley" screws (hexagon holes). I used a flat edged screw driver to screw in the screws, and now and then, the screw driver slips out. In one instance it made an indent into the top wing sheeting.

I forgot to add this, but for the wings, I cut a small rectangle white covering out, using a hobby knife, from the top of the wing near the center. Then I cut a small cube of balsa, trimmed it to conform with the curved wing surface. I then glued this onto where the plastic covering was cut out from. I made sure that the top of this balsa piece is levelled with the bottom of the wing. Then I added 1/32" ply on top of this. This was done so that the screws can be at 90 degrees to the fuse wing mounts and it provides support for the screws as well. This was done at the trailing edge too. I should also add, that this step was done before the drilling began.

Next steps I will do in the coming days is too install motor, prop, servos, etc.

Installation of electronics into the fuse began.

First I installed the AXI 2208/20 into the nacelle tube. I hooked up the wires from the motor to the wire leads from the fin. I think in the future I might just simply solder them together. I then re-installed the nacelle tube to the nacelle mount on the fin. By the way, the photo does not sure it right, but the propeller blade does in fact have clearance from the fuse and fin. The clearance is about 1/4", so the blade will not hit anything. I will get a better photo of it later on.

Secondly, I moved on to the pushrod tubes which were dangling inside the fuse. I cut squares from the 1/16" ply, with dimensions roughly 3/4" square. I positioned them on the formers and marked off roughly where the tube will go through it. Then I drilled these squares. I sowed the squares through the pushrod tubes and glues them to the formers and the tube.

Thirdly, I cut 3/8" wide rectangles from the 1/16" ply, and double layered them to get 1/8" thickness. These will be the servo mount bars. I made two of these. I installed them into the fuse and checked for correct measurement. Then I checked and marked off where these mounts will be glued inside the fuse. Glued. Originally, the plans called for the servos to be located just behind the formers underneath the wing, where the leading edge is. But, since I am using a lighter LIPO pack, I had to shift whatever inside the fuse more toward the nose to counter balance this. I moved the servos up one compartment.

Fourthly, The former infront of the nose former where the servo wires leads are dangling down in the photo, I cut a small piece of the cross bar of the former off to make room for the LIPO pack.

Now, comes the Lipo installation.

As mentioned before, the cross bar from the second former from the nose was cut off to make room for the lipos. I am using an E-Tec 1250HP 3 cell lipo pack. This installation was a but hard for me, meaning, how to orient this block into a tiny space in the fuse nose. Finally, I ended up positioning it flat on its side and I move it toward the nose as closely as I can, leaving some room for the foam pads.

I played around how to pad the lipos while trying to leave as much surface expose for ventilation. This method I made seems to be good. First I had some of that foam pad that Hitec supplies with its recievers. I use that, and cut thin strips about 1/4" wide. I added these to the areas where the lipo pack are in contact with the fuse sides and bottom. I did not add these pads to the sides of the second former because the lipos are so wedged in, that they cannot move side to side, thus not touching the second former sides. Secondly, the heat shrink blue covering the lipos have seems to get caught in these pads and makes it difficult to pull out. You see in the photo that I had to wrap a thin strip of white electrical tape around the front part of the lipo's to give me a smooth caught-free installation/removal.

I order for the lipos not to move back into the fuse (since I caught away the cross bar of the second former), I had to attach a new cross bar, like about 1/2" back. I had also added this pad strip onto that.

In the small space from the nose block and the front of the lipo's, I added a piece of gray sponge which I had cut to shape.

I think with this setup, I can added maybe slightly larger lipo packs into here.

Next comes receiver and speed control. These, as you probably have guessed, goes into the compartment between the lipo pack and servos. This space is not tight, which is good to work in, but the only problems I have had is the stiff wires from speed controls. They are flexible, but making tight bends in a small fuse offers a challenge. The receiver on the other hand was an easy installation, and the servo leads are very easy to bend or fold.

Just to note, the receiver I used is a Hitec micro 555, but instead of wraping the whole thing in that "large" pad of foam that they supply, I simply, yet again, cut small strips and glued them to the sides of the receiver. I think I simply had too much fun with cutting and glueing this foam pad to things.

The receiver's antenna wire goes back to the center of the fuse where the wings are located. I had shown earlier that I made one wing with an antenna tube, which runs all the way to the tip. The wires would goes through this in an attempt to move far away from the battery wires and motor wires, which would be generating an electrical field, in order to reduce interference on reception.

The receiver and speed control are not glued or pinned into place. I added another piece of gray sponge between these two. It seems everything there are held in nicely.

Just to note in the photo, I decided to make a ventilation hole on top of the fuse, at the front top end of the canopy.

your running the receiver wire in the wing? just a quick qeustion , what happens when you have a crash where the wing comes off , does that include the antennae...

just wondering?

cheers
doug

Well, I wont crash

But, seriously, if a crash occurs, I mean a bad one, I won't be worrying about the antenna wire, since its cheap to replace and easy to resolder, I would be worrying about the other more expensive things inside the fuse. I don't think the center section of the wing will come off. If the tip of the wing hits ground first, most likely, due to the weak nature of the wing, the middle or tip of the wing will break. And if that wing has the tube, the tube is fairly strong to not "shear off". Most likely the tube will hold the broken wing together instead of pieces flying all over the place.

Thanks for the question, I had thought about this as well.

Ok, great news people. I have completed the covering and other minor details. I added the basic covering scheme I have thought of (only seeing CompositesRC's windex build webpage and not seeing the greekwings windex pages) when I first order the plans. Havent decided on what other detail in covering I should add to this. I will post photos later on, but need to charge up the battery for the camera first.

I will have a test flight soon. I had balanced the whole plane and then weight it. I had to add about 18 grams of nose weight. Possibly in the future I will simply get a lipo pack thats closer to balancing it. My current lipo pack weighs 85 grams, + 18 grams nose weight. So I will later on find a lipo 3 cell pack which would weight roughly around 100 grams. The overall weight is 569 grams (20.07 oz.) I was hoping to get 19 oz. originally, but I am happy of this too.

I'll give an update this week on the flight.

Hello all,

Here are some photos of the completed plane. The covering job is about 90% completed. I left the nacelle bare, but I think I will paint it with white acrylic artists paint. This would be much easier than to try to add solite to it. Also I was thinking of cutting out some pattern from the excess blue solite left over, for the fin section. I was thinking of adding text which would run diagonally across the fin, with the words "WinDex" and "1200C" in smaller letters right below it. Or something else, havent decided yet. But for now, all white will do.

Well, I went for the test flight on Friday July 1, as the club field. When I got there, and got out of the car, there was HUGE winds, and this was at around 9:00am. Usually the winds tend to pick up velocity in the after noon. The winds were around 25-30ish km/h. With this fragile structured, light weight plane, I decided not to test fly it. I am gonna try next weekend.

wow the windex looks amazing , Im glad that you decided not to fly in those winds it would be a shame to lose such a gorgeous model ..

ive been thinking of how you should attach the antennae ...

like most slopers do , with a joiner pin so you can take the wings off for transport also if need be later on it makes receiver changes easy..

cheers
doug..