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Jun 29, 2020, 06:20 PM
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DJI OcuSync Air System Upgrade

Alright, I'm dusting of the Tonka Summit for an upgrade! I bought the DJI Goggles Racing Edition and Air System (with external fan). I've been waiting for a long time for a long-range HD system to become available that wasn't proprietary but it looks like that might still be a ways off and DJI has the longest range so I took the plunge. The goggles are bulky and not as light and comfortable as my old trusty Headplay's and I can't seem to focus the screen without reading glasses so I bought some diopters. Weird I don't need diopters for the Headplay's but I do with the DJI Goggles. I'm going to make a new aluminum pan/mount for the DJI camera. I have a 3D printer but I just still really prefer using aluminum since it has lasted all these years with no issue. The one thing that's missing is audio so I bought some small UHF walkie Talkies. Audio just helps interacting with others, avoiding pedestrians, traffic and I like hearing the motors to tell if they're straining going over obstacles. I also bought a small USB drive-looking audio recorder so I can marry up the audio to the video later if I record anything interesting. I'm also replacing the horn with one that I can customize by uploading an mp3. I'll post my progress!

I went with the DJI Racing Edition Goggles over the DJI FPV Goggles because the Racing Edition has dual band Ocusync (7 km vs 4 km), built-in battery, built-in head tracking, additional analog receiver, higher resolution and HDMI input.

DJI Digital FPV System VS Ocusync Air System Goggles RE - What System Is Best For You (16 min 54 sec)

Here is how to set up untethered head tracking using the RMILEC PPM->PWM converter discussed in this video. I'm still using my old 72 MHz Futaba as that gives me plenty of ground range and hopefully the video will go as far.

DJI Goggles Ocusync Air System Head Tracking Setup & Info (3 min 38 sec)

I ordered two different horns to try out. One is advertised as a USB programmable 12V car horn that I was planning to run on a 3S battery and trigger using a BattleSwitch. I also ordered a second much smaller and cheaper Dixie horn from the same company and just as I suspected it is USB programmable as well. There isn't a USB pigtail coming out of it but there's a Mini USB (not micro) port on the board. This is great news as I won't even have to modify that horn to fit under the Tonka's hood and I can load whatever mp3 sound I want. They're both the same wattage and speaker size just a much smaller form factor for the second horn not to mention it was only forty dollars versus sixty.

I made the pan tilt mount this weekend. If it looks familiar I just shrunk down my old design. I extended the aluminum as before and screwed a hex bolt through the top and cut off the shaft so the hex bolt head fits into a recessed hole in the ceiling. That way the camera has two pivot points and won't shake. I had to mount the camera a little lower than the GoPro since the DJI Air System camera cable is so short but it turns out I would have had to do that anyway to give the servo arm enough clearance. I just stuck the servo on with servo tape aka clear VHB tape. There's not as much surface area for the servo to stick with this smaller camera but it seems secure enough. Since I had to mount the camera lower, the lip of my aluminum bed mount would come into view when I looked straight down so I trimmed it to make it narrower. You could still see a very tiny bit of the left corner so I "carpeted" it with velcro to camoflauge it and reduce any reflections. I'm still using a Turnigy TGY-R5180MG 180 Degree MG Analog Servo for pan and an EMAX ES08MA II 12g metal gear servo for tilt. I bought a knockoff ES08MA from Amazon and it was terrible. Very jerky like it had half the resolution of a genuine EMAX. I dug around and luckily had one leftover genuine EMAX from a previous build and it worked perfectly; Very smooth. As a matter of fact I would probably avoid planning to use this particular model servo altogether simply because it's just about impossible to find a genuine version since there are so many knockoffs out in the wild.

I wound up using the circuit board from the USB horn that had the USB pigtail but putting it in the smaller housing. That way I can upload new horn sounds without having to take everything apart. The horn is small but there was only one angle where it could be mounted where it wouldn't be seen without heavy modification and I couldn't secure it with velcro so I bolted it in. I used one screw at first but it would twist around too easily when inserting the Tonka interior into the metal body so I added a second screw. That black "spacer" is from an empty Amazon doggie poop bag roll lol.

One random tip for anyone using DJI Goggles: I had a hard time finding the back button by feel so I cut a little square of velcro and stuck it on there so now I can find it easily when navigating the menu.

Last edited by replayreb; Jul 01, 2020 at 09:56 PM.
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