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Oct 14, 2020, 12:04 AM
Registered User
mdxp67's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by kuzmick
FWIW, I tested this last night concerned with the same thing, I plugged an old 3s into my para board with the 2s cheater plug still hooked up, I got an instant warning alarm from the toolkitrc m6 so at least some chargers have protection for this.


EDIT: dont do it, i just killed a 3s battery because i forgot i had the cheater plug in, i think the octopus cables are a better choice
Ooops, I feel your pain. Octopus cable is safer.

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/jst-xh-p...xjst-xh-1.html

For this Hobbyking cable assembly, one can easily modify one of the 6 output cables to have main plug fitted.
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Oct 14, 2020, 07:09 AM
Tarot 550/600 & OMPHobby UK
Smoggie's Avatar
Full product specification attached:
Oct 14, 2020, 03:20 PM
Registered User
Preorder for m1 batteries

https://ohiomodelplanes.com/collections/m1-heli-parts
Oct 14, 2020, 09:30 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smoggie
Full product specification attached:
Thanks for the spec file. Wow what a nice, clean and well engineered machine.
Btw, do you know if we can get access to the main ESC settings? Is it BLheli_32 ESC ?
Last edited by ptern; Oct 14, 2020 at 09:38 PM.
Oct 14, 2020, 10:26 PM
Slideways at warp speed.......
kiwi_craig's Avatar
Thread OP
I'm wondering how durable the cantilevered main shaft bearing holder - servo mounts will be longer term, only fixed into the chassis at the base ??
Oct 15, 2020, 01:54 AM
Tarot 550/600 & OMPHobby UK
Smoggie's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi_craig
I'm wondering how durable the cantilevered main shaft bearing holder - servo mounts will be longer term, only fixed into the chassis at the base ??
The idea is the same in concept as the Goblin chassis. You have a main 'transmission plate' onto which the main bearing housing and servo mount structure bolts. The motor is also mounted direct to the plate, like the Goblin. The rest of the chassis hangs off the plate.

It works great on the Goblins so I dont see any reason why it wont be equally effective here.
Oct 15, 2020, 02:14 AM
Slideways at warp speed.......
kiwi_craig's Avatar
Thread OP
yeah get the general idea, just the two spars look very thin - light....... LOL we all know the goblin is built like a brick.........
Oct 15, 2020, 08:31 AM
Registered User
mdxp67's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi_craig
I'm wondering how durable the cantilevered main shaft bearing holder - servo mounts will be longer term, only fixed into the chassis at the base ??
I actually did a real life empirical study on this accidentally. In the full power upside down smack down into hard asphalt, the mainshaft tripod mount and the aluminium beam were unaffected. The impact energy was absorbed by the hollow mainshaft getting
bent about 30 degree at the main hub end. The feathering was very slightly bent but was still useable. If it was grass, I am sure the heli would escape unscathed.

The fix is mainshaft replacement. 5 mins easy job. Straight forward access, nothingelse need to be removed. A pack of 2 mainshafts costs 20CNY (about 3usd), same price as for K110 sub quality shafts
!
Step 1. 1.5 hex bolt at motor
2. 2 phillips screws at the the midshaft locating bush.
3. Disconnect 2 swash links and pull up entire head assembly together with shaft.
4. 1.5mm hex bolt at main hub.
5. Transfer hub to new mainshaft. Install shaft. No second guessing position of bolts and screws. The holes and grooves are accurately predrilled. Done.
Last edited by mdxp67; Oct 15, 2020 at 10:15 AM.
Oct 15, 2020, 08:43 AM
Registered User
mdxp67's Avatar
Look at the prices of the high quality parts. They are similar to the meh quality k110, k130 or e160 parts. The dogbones link is so cheap but it is of high precision moulding and high quality plastic just like the M2. Makes me cry when I look at the k130 or e160 sub quality dogbones which wear out or crack in flight and cause the heli to self disintegrate.
Oct 15, 2020, 09:04 AM
Registered User
mdxp67's Avatar
Kiwicraig, when I first saw the initial pictures of the M1, I had concern like you about the cantilever design of the mainshaft/servo tripod mount which didn’t look like a good design from the structural point of view. But perusing it in real life, I realized the sturdy servo metal cases actually provide structural support to the entire assembly because of the high precision tolerances of the tripod.
I paid a lot extra for the metal servo introductory heli bnf set but in hindsight it is worth the money. Beside the structural strength, the servo is so buttery smooth and powerful to boot.
Oct 15, 2020, 09:07 AM
Registered User
thanks for the price list on replacement parts, that's great news. Im ready to stock up and it hasn't even shipped
Oct 15, 2020, 09:58 AM
Registered User
mdxp67's Avatar
Kiwicraig, regarding your previous comment about adding support rods to the tail boom. Again the engineer in us think about the disadvantage of cantilever beams. But I have concluded that I rather live with easy replacement of cheap aluminium booms compared to the complication of adding support rods which may lead to failure of the main plastic frame. I have mentioned before about how nil soldering or messing around with wire connectors are required like on the k110, k130 or e160. Just pull the wire and connector through the new boom.

I am not sponsored in any way by OMP. I am just an aircraft engineer who loves to tinker with rc helis and appreciates good sound engineering design and quality. That is why I am waxing lyrical about this heli. There are just so much thought put in.

It is virtually impossible to have accidental rub through of servo cables or power cables due the design of the tripod and component layout. Another nasty point on other helis.

These parts I would think are bullet proof: the plastic main frame(an engineering marvel), the alu tripod and main beam, the tail motor mount/fin and the landing skid. All are top quality materials.

The control board and ESC has a few Murphy proof designs and have zero cables between them! I thought about the possibility of impact and whether a plastic housing would provide protection. Yeah maybe. But the plastic canopy is very strong, not like the paper thin canopies on the other micro helis. The canopy is very thick and I am not sure what kind of colour printing process was used but the orange colour scheme has similar solidity and opaque quality as a fibreglass canopy. The colour appears to be a laminate layer that is bonded to the canopy. Really nice.
Oct 15, 2020, 01:51 PM
Slideways at warp speed.......
kiwi_craig's Avatar
Thread OP
that bent main shaft is proof the the main sub assembly is pretty strong !

the injection moulding on the chassis using the same technique as Walkera employed on the 450Do3 with all curved rounded sections which is very nice, would have been a very expensive master die to have had made though with new CNC machines I'm guessing they whizzed it out nicely. Allot of design time would have gone into making that die for the chassis.

seems there is a new canopy manufacture process available, the newest Eachine canopies are an injection moulded - printed product, no more easily split vac moulded foil canopies !

I do agree that a simple plastic box around the FBL board would be a nice finishing touch - and in keeping with the quality theme generated through out. could be a 3D print job !
Oct 15, 2020, 06:01 PM
Registered User
After burning up a 3s battery, I idiot proofed my 2s parallel charging with a piece of plastic in preparation for the m1.one of these days I'll remember to put the heat shrink on before soldering too
Oct 15, 2020, 06:04 PM
Folding Spacetime
navigator2011's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by kuzmick
After burning up a 3s battery, I idiot proofed my 2s parallel charging in preparation for the m1.one of these days I'll remember to put the heat shrink on before soldering too
It would be so much easier to just pull the trigger on a 150X charging cable from BuddyRC.


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