Using the OMP protocol really is for someone who has no experience with helis it's like the horrible built in mixing in the blade nano s2. With a satellite it bypasses it and gives you full control with your TX. I fly a OMP protocol and SFHSS both with satellites, they both fly great. Try the satellite.

Spektrum satellite receiver will also work with the omp model too, just have to get over the binding hurdle.

You can buy satellites with built-in bind buttons, ScotiaRC sells one which is perfect, also available on BG.

The only hurdle is that you have to hold the button while powering on the heli, and it's very stiff. Then I realised you can also hold the button while plugging it into a powered heli which is much easier.

Originally Posted by daveapplemotors

As of now it is just a heavy, slow 2S heli that doesn't perform as well as my ancient much modified mcpx's My mcpxs ARE ROCKETS.

Cool, then your modification must be a jet engine for the mCPX .Please post a video of your highly tuned mCPX so I can compare the performance with Jonas' heavy and slow stock M1.

OMPHobby M1 - 6000RPM - 3D Flight (2 min 59 sec)

My normal modified (DFC, alloy/carbon) mCPX BL 1 and 2 are lame ducks against the M1, I'm really looking forward to your video.

Originally Posted by Mopatop

Then I realised you can also hold the button while plugging it into a powered heli which is much easier.

Top tip!

Originally Posted by daveapplemotors

Hey Sim597
I, too, have been very frustrated trying to get my OMP protocol M1 to fly with stability mode. I bought a Jumper T18 with OpenTX.

I have been flying it without rescue or stability.
I have been through all the videos about three times. When I try to include "Gyro" the throttle or pitch goes nutty. Different variations of "SNAFU" with TJ's, Jonas' , Ali's or John Salt's versions.

As I said in post #3377, a few before yours, the OMP protocol receiver was only ever intended to work with the OMP T6 transmitter. Use with a multi-protocol transmitter is an unofficial 'hack' which even the people behind the multi-protocol development openly admit "is known to be problematic".

Has anybody else noticed that the servo arms get separated from the connecting rod real easily? Evidently the screw that holds them together strips the servo arm threads and once stripped the arm needs to be replaced or it will separate at the slightest stress. You can tell when the thread is stripped when the screws just keeps turning. The heli can actually be gently flown that way but cyclic management has to be perfect (I found out the hard way).

Also, I'm sure most know this already; even though there are 2 holes on the servo arm, only the inner one is usable due to the tight fit on the frame.

The servo arms are designed to fail. Ideally you will be replacing cheap servo arms instead of servos.

After they pop out I put a drop of CA in the hole, screw in ball link and hit with kicker. They still pop of in a crash but not in flight.

Originally Posted by Trashley

After they pop out I put a drop of CA in the hole, screw in ball link and hit with kicker. They still pop of in a crash but not in flight.

What a top tip... I have been 3d flying the ass off my M1 and after numerous crashes Ive only had the ball links pop out from the servo arms (plus one broken blade tip - trying the soft blades next).
It does seem as durable as a k110 - obviously flies 100 times better, no complaints here, I have dialed back the TC to about 80 - other than that I have stock settings (not using omp tx).
I am going to try the CA fix instead of new servo arms.. that being said, I haven't had the ball links come off in flight - maybe all the cyclic practice is paying off?!

Soft blades are great but not as much pop. I fly one with and one without. With soft ones you need to drop the pitch/roll gain down to 1 or you get oscillations. Throttle curve no more than about 65%. I use the soft ones for back yard flying. 281 flights, 100+ crashes into trees, fence, self , house and once in the pool. Never had to replace blades main shaft of spindle. I call them Nerf blades, seem to soften to blow from a crash. Just don't expect to be able to do hard tic-tocs, fly about the same otherwise, maybe a bit smoother.

Originally Posted by Trashley

Soft blades are great but not as much pop. I fly one with and one without. With soft ones you need to drop the pitch/roll gain down to 1 or you get oscillations. Throttle curve no more than about 65%. I use the soft ones for back yard flying. 281 flights, 100+ crashes into trees, fence, self , house and once in the pool. Never had to replace blades main shaft of spindle. I call them Nerf blades, seem to soften to blow from a crash. Just don't expect to be able to do hard tic-tocs, fly about the same otherwise, maybe a bit smoother.

Thanks for this. I have just fit these blades and I am waiting until it's safe to go outside.

I'm currently practicing my tick-tocs and I'm doing them over about 30°, you think they will manage it?

Yes, they still will tic-toc. Just not hard and fast. I'm no 3d expert, just tail down tic-tocs for me. Just nailing down tail down inverted funnels. Soft blades great for that on my small 2500sq foot lawn.

Sounds perfect thanks.

Try aileron tick-tocks to the right. The tail rotor provides appreciable lift making them easier.

Thanks for the tip on dialing down the gains on the soft blades. I’ve dropped my headspeed to 3600rpm and loosened my blades which has helped, but I still get slight oscillations.
Will try dropping the gains. (Once I learn how ��)