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Sooner or later it is a good bet that someone will give it a try. |
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Last edited by Lufo; Jun 28, 2020 at 07:47 AM.
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Did I say anything was hidden?
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Why do you wish to be offended? You used the word inconspicuous, below is the definition. Most would add a definition of 'hidden' to that as well.
If it pleases you, I will edit my post and change the two uses of 'hidden' to 'inconspicuous'. Just let me know. Regardless, there was nothing hidden or inconspicuous on the manufacturer's site. in•con•spic•u•ous ĭn″kən-spĭk′yoo͞-əs►
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No I'm not offended at all, you just made a judgement call. Anyways, I'm looking forward to this model. It's the perfect setup to toss in the car and catch a flight at any time, any where. I might paint the fuselage black. This blue color reminds me of 3D printed plastic, which obviously is not the case for this model. |
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Ah! Thanks, Lufo! I missed those tabs first time I followed the link. Now I also know that the recommended motor size is 1106 5500-8000KV (or 1105 with adapter). That's much higher KV than I would have expected for a 2S LiPo. But I guess higher RPM is needed for a fast-flying hotliner. Looking forward to first flying reports! |
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Latest blog entry: Explore new (old) forms of flight! :)
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Any Updates, builds or video on the Spin? Thanks Roel
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Spinn Electric Review/Tips
Hi Everyone, just wanted to share my experiences with this little gem. I got my Spinn from Kennedy composites in mid-August and it took me some time to get it built and flying due to work. This is my first “baby” electric as I’ve been an F3B pilot my whole life so getting used to these “feather weight” models has taken some getting used to. This entire plane ready to fly weights less that the stabs on my old F3B ships.. Here are some things that I learned during the build and suggestions to help others with their build/setup/tuning: 1. Pay very close attention to the illustrations in the build instructions. You have to really make sure that the servo horns, orientations and linkage setups are per instructions. I “thought” I got everything correct but little things like the direction that the “Zee” bend goes through the servo horn DO make a difference. 2. Make sure that the flaperon horns are as perfectly mirrored to each other as you can so the geometry is symmetrical. I know this because I had to dig one of the horns out and re-glue it as the geometry was asymmetrical which cause the control throws NOT to match (Thank you Sherman Knight for the tips). 3. Be gentle with the stab mounting screws, support the nylon post when screwing in the retaining screws as you can easily twist the mounting post. (I almost had this happen to me) 4. Double check the music wire “L” bends on the teeny tiny carbon pushrods. I use a micro tube dispenser to put the smallest drop of CA on the shrink tube to add a bit of strength there. BE CAREFUL NOT TO GLUE THE “L” BEND TO THE CONTROL HORN… don’t ask me about that experience.. 5. I used a Spektrum “A6335 Nanolite” receiver which required replacing all the servo plugs with the tiny JST 1.2mm pitch connectors but that allowed me to get rid of excess wire and slide the Rx on top of front (elevator) servo. I drilled a tiny hole in the side of the fuse for the Rx antenna to stick out.. 6. I used the recommended Dymond 47 analog servos.. 7. The battery pack that I found fits the best is a 2 cell, 240mAh 7.4v with JS connectors made by “ProTek”. 8. After a few flights, during a preflight the elevator servo went to full lock and upon checking, it turns out the servo burned out.. I suspect that the freshly charged 2c LiPo overvoltaged the servo. The ESC that comes with the power setup doesn’t have a voltage regulator. A friend suggested a “Wolfwhoop PW-D Control Buck inverter volt stabilizer” to put inline between the ESC and the Rx/servos. Since doing this everything has been stable. 9. Limit the throttle to 70% max otherwise the little ESC overheats (I thought I burned it out but a solder joint just melted… easy fix) 10. Keep an eye on the temp of the esc and motor, they can overheat quickly. DON’T do static motor runs for more that 2-3 sec.. that little ESC gets toasty. 11. I haven’t measured the control throws (gotta do that and report). I’m using as much elevator and rudder as possible with the linkage setup. 12. Differential is about 60% up to 40% down but I’ve been adjusting and moving towards 50/50. 13. Landing flaps drop to about 60 degrees and a “curve” down elevator compensation is highly recommended as the amount of down elevator required changes dramatically with the flap deployment. 14. CG is CRITICAL a few grams in the nose move the cg a lot. I strongly urge using one the electronic CG scales. (Kenney Composites sells a nice unit). I started at 64mm as the instruction call for but find that 62mm is not as “twitchy” and allows me to fly when the breeze pick up. 15. Anything over about 5 mph breeze the Spinn is just a “leaf in the wind” you can fly it but its not much fun. I’ve found that mornings & evenings with calm to 3 mph and small bubbles is just sooo relaxing and stress busting. I’ll report back on the control throws but I HIGHLY recommend investing in one of these little “smile generators”. Big Lift to All. |
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Steve,
Are you aware that Spectrum considers the 6335 rcvr as an indoor or micro plane rcvr ? I am using a Lemon 6ch dual diversity end pin rcvr in my Elf Pro which uses standard connectors and fits on top of the elev servo. I would love to hear some of your flight reports including flight time ,motor run time, does it thermal etc. I am having great success with my Elf with flight times up to 20 minutes on less than 2 min motor run time. I am considering getting a Spin but would like to hear a little more about about how it thermals. Thanks, Tom Unger |
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Hi Tom,
1. Yes, I realize the 6335 is considered for "micro/indoor" but I have found that even at the limit of my eyesight, there are only a few dozen frame losses and no holds so I'm comfortable using this Rx everyone has to decide for themselves. The main reason I use it is that there is more room in the fuse. I tried a regular 6 ch and the standard servo connectors just take up too much space. 2. I typically get 15-20 minutes of flight time on each 240 mAh pack that I limit to 1:50 run time using 65% throttle to prevent ESC overheating. 3. YES IT THERMALS! After flying F3B "heavy" gliders most of my life, this little dust mote really will thermal in "gopher farts"..LOL.. 4. As I mentioned in my write-up, I'm moving to 50/50 differential and am playing with the rudder mix to optimize thermal turns. I tend to "fly the rudder" too much in thermals and need to dial in the mix to reduce pilot work load. 5. I HIGHLY recommend getting one of these little "giggle generators".. Flying these featherweight planes (Ihave a Snipe Electric as well) is just a hoot.. After flying for an hour, you have this big grin on your face and all the stress from COVID and daily life is GONE... I'll post my control throws this weekend. I normally say "Big LIft" but with this gem, you only need Gopher Farts... Steve |
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Spinn Setup Update,
Apologies for delay but here are the throws and current setup for the Spinn E that is my COVID stress reliever.. 10/16/20 - Throws / CG for Spinn Electric • Elevator Up = 9mm • Elevator Down = 8 mm • Rudder = 8mm right & left • Rudder/Aileron mix = Rudder ~2mm right & left • Flaperons = 12mm up 11 down • Landing = ~35mm down • Elevator Down with full Flaps = 4mm (on a curve) • Tx Throttle limited to 80% to preserve ESC CG = 61.5 mm from LE (can go to 63 but it's very unstable/twitchy) Battery = 300 mAH 50C/100C 2S 7.5v 2.2WH "300 HV 4.35V www.gaonengbattery Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DDFC57H..._cpeJFbVZ5ERZ5 I HIGHLY recommend a voltage regulator between the ESC and reciever/servo.. I use Wolfwhoop PW-D Control Buck Converter 6-24V to 5V 1.5A Step-Down Regulator Module Power Inverter Volt Stabilizer Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076P4C42B..._mqeJFbSS2YMZ7 Disclaimer: these are just my recommendations and opinions, you have to do what you think is right |
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