Originally Posted by Hokieskins

Where can one purchase a scale pilot to fit within the canopy, something light and low cost.
Similar to the one in the 6.5m version

That pilot in the 6m version looks way to small and I think if you do the measurements and math you will find it to be the case. Pilots shoulders should come right out to side.

I have the 4.5m version and have been looking for a pilot for 6 months. The couple of 1/3 I have found are to big, Great Plains and Hangar 9, to big across shoulders. I have printed "Gary the pilot", to my scale and should turn out great. Will post info and pics soon.

Might add the Ka8b kit I got was nothing short of appalling, disappointing, atrocious are words that come to mind. Had I known what I was getting into I would not have bought it.

Originally Posted by BlRDMAN

That pilot in the 6m version looks way to small and I think if you do the measurements and math you will find it to be the case. Pilots shoulders should come right out to side.

I have the 4.5m version and have been looking for a pilot for 6 months. The couple of 1/3 I have found are to big, Great Plains and Hangar 9, to big across shoulders. I have printed "Gary the pilot", to my scale and should turn out great. Will post info and pics soon.

Might add the Ka8b kit I got was nothing short of appalling, disappointing, atrocious are words that come to mind. Had I known what I was getting into I would not have bought it.

Sorry to hear, my ARF turned out great, short of the rotation pin coming loose from shipping and extra work to install spoilers. Assembly was simple and maiden went well, thinking of buying a 2nd as an aero tow.
Please post pics of the 3D printed pilot, don’t have a 3D printer, maybe an excuse to invest in one.

Hi,
For anyone that has flown this glider how is the cg? I am about to start mine this coming week. It will be set up for aerotow. Thanks very much.

Joe

I have read the comments in the threads for this post and appreciate the insight thus far.

I am an experienced RC pilot of various genres and am interested in purchasing this plane as it would be my first larger scale glider in the hangar.

For those of you that flown this model a bunch, can you comment on the fly-ability of the plane now that you may have one or two summers under your belt? Is it a good flyer in general or is it a dud?

For those that are Aerotowing, are you using a dolly or are you ground sliding or hand launching? I'm not adverse to any of the techniques but am curious what others are doing.

For you e-power enthusiasts, any regret putting e-power in your plane? Are you launching off a dolly or hand launch?

Any more comments on the general fly-ability of the plane would be appreciated.

In general, would you recommend getting this plane? I'm looking for some gentle nudging to purchase from folks that have had positive experiences with this plane.

Thanks in advance if you would take the time to respond.

I'm finishing up my Ka8, it's set up for Aerotow and self-launch. Installing the tow release was a bit fussy but manageable. I'll post some photos soon. I'm hoping that with the Hacker motor and 6S Lipos I can hand launch, otherwise a dolly. I'll test the motor/prop combo after an Aerotow launch. This will give me a clear sense of whether this model can be hand launched which I would prefer over a dolly.

I've owned the 6 meter version from Phoenix and know guys with the 3.5M version. Both fly well and based on that experience I bought the 4.5 meter. It's a great value. Clearly Phoenix has improved their construction techniques and I expect this model will be a good flyer. Maiden will be at the Binghamton Aerotow in October. Will post a flying report at that time.

Steve

I have about a dozen flights on my 4.5 M. and I think it will be a great flier. Mine is one of the first run and the fuselage does not have the "new" plywood. Like the 3.5 that I have the fuselage is tender, already had to put in some doublers even without an abrupt arrival. So, treat it gently when approaching firm objects.

Once I can fly again, due to back issues, my plan is to dial it in more. I have already increased the aileron throw by 25% over stock and have about 30% differential programmed in. All of my gliders have low rates and expo on elevator and ailerons , which is where I fly them the most. But, with this one I felt on the first flight needed more full rate throw than stock. I use full rate on departure to help prevent an OOH NO. After my last flight at Owatonna I noticed I had quite a bit of down trim, so I may need to add a shim or two at the LE of the horizontal.

Mine is set up for aero towing only and I needed to add a little over 2 lbs. of lead and epoxy to the nose to balance with the supplied balance rig. I have 2 2500 mah. 2S A123 packs as far forward as possible adding to the nose weight. Due to the size and weight of this airplane I would be wary of trying to hand launch it for motor climb flights. A bungy and/or a dolly I think would be recommended.

In the air it handles well, but it will bite you if you let it get too slow in a turn. It signals lift well and thermals well. So, the CG may be very close with the stock balance rig. The air at Owatonna was not booming, but I caught one ride at under 300' (my buddy thought I was setting up to land) and climbed out to about 1500'.

Mark

Thanks for the flight feedback, Mark. Have you or anyone else come up with a way to easily remove the stab/elevator assembly for transport to/from the field. The current long steel pushrods are beyond dumb and make stab removal a real PIA. In the off season I will most likely mount a pair of elevator servos in the back of the fuse.

Any insights greatly appreciated,

Steve

Thanks for the responses. Really appreciated.

I'm assuming from very early threads in this post that the wings DO HAVE carbons spars?

Steve, I have found the horizontal can be removed without removing the vertical on mine. Using two Sullivan 3 mm. ball links and a pair of the Du-Bro large scale "T" control horns it's a simple job to attach or remove it. I have fat fingers and my dexterity has been lost due to age so I use a pair of forceps to remove/or install the ball links. Now, only two tools to do the deed! If I have time later I will try to get a couple of pictures on mine. BTW, I used the stock pushrods and had to order the ball links direct from Sullivan.

https://sullivanproducts.com/product/s593/

https://www.dubro.com/collections/co...-control-horns

FL, yes there is substantial carbon in the wings, both inner and outer panels. I won't say you can't do it, but you will be hard pressed to damage the wings with normal air loads.

Mark

Thanks Mark for confirming the cf spars....much appreciated!

I have ordered one and will have it ready for next Spring up here in Alberta. We're likely only 3 weeks away from some snow flurries.

Thanks again for the insights....keep them coming all if you may.

Here is a picture of how mine looks installed with Items I posted earlier. Sorry the lighting isn't very good. One of the benefits of using the horns and ball links I did is the pushrod can be arranged to have a straight low friction geometry. I always try to do that in a model, since it reduces the chance of poor centering and power consumption, In addition blow back of the surface is reduced when the pushrod stays in column.

Thanks Soarmark. Here are some photos of my tow release install, Hacker motor mods as the Rimfire is out of stock and my mods to install elevator servos and quick release Sullivan ball links. By eliminating the long steel elevator pushrods, the servo linkage is direct and slop-free.

Turn the elevator servo arm 180……the linkage will work much better and be up out of “harms” way…..

I stand corrected...tried your servo arm approach and it is much better...thanks!

Finished and ready for the maiden on 10/8 at the Chenango Bridge NY Aerotow...be there or be square! Ballast box uses motor bolts to secure, 6S Lipos, Jeti RX plus R3 to ensure good link to the TX with all the carbon in the fuse, Jeti Main Switch, Vario, Talon 90 ESC, Castle 20 amp BEC.