I set it up on my DX 9. Your blade needs to be powered on then I just used auto configure and it finds it as a receiver battery not a flight pack

That worked! Thank you.

Re-posted here

I recently purchased a nice PO Blade 200 SRX and to me it looked like a bigger heavy duty (Brush-less motors, etc,) version of my Blade 120 S.

The 200 SRX has had MH blade grips installed on it and I noticed how similar they are to the the MH blade grips on my 120.

Long story made short,: I installed a spare set of 200 SRX blades on one of my 120's and it fly's wonderfully! 'Super-stable, and being into "scale" flight; the extra 1.5" blade length fills the gap between the main shaft and the tail on my scale bodies.

To me; The 120 S with 200 SRX blades was more stable and less affected by light winds than it was with stock 120 S main blades.


Important note! The 120 S that I used has a HH Jet Ranger body installed, the stock 120 S does not have enough distance between the main shaft and tail blade to fit 200 SRX main blades, so you'll have to extend the boom by about 1.5".

The 200SRX is now sitting in a box as I really do prefer my 120 S', With a bit of ingenuity the mechanics fit nicely into the HH/EFlite CX2 Jet Ranger and the Esky (EC120 Colibre) Hunter body.

'sorry for being a bit inactive here, Between moving from San Antonio to Las Vegas and my work requiring a lot of over time; I've had no time to work on my heli's.

The tail motor assemble rotated about 20 degrees when I crashed my 120 S2. I want to twist it back, but don't see any screws to loosen it. Is it a friction fit, or glued into place. I don't want to twist it and break it.

Originally Posted by Joggingon

The tail motor assemble rotated about 20 degrees when I crashed my 120 S2. I want to twist it back, but don't see any screws to loosen it. Is it a friction fit, or glued into place. I don't want to twist it and break it.

It's just a friction/pressure fit. You should be able to turn it back or pull out and put back in straight.

Hey guys...just received my S2 version. Manual says I should assign channel input 6 aux 1 to "I" but on my DX6 it is marked inhibit and I can't seem to change it. Any ideas?

Another weird deal...when I move the throttle all the way off it takes 2-3 seconds for the throttle to "cut" and quit.

Finally, sometimes I have to move the rudder stick a long way before it will start to swing. Almost like I have 100% expo...but I don't.

I had to take my stickers off my brand now eflite batts to get them into the battery tray.

thanks in advance for any thoughts.

So I changed it from heli to airplane model type as stated in the manual and "poof" all the settings became accessible. It still delays in motor off when you drop the throttle to 0. You have to move the sticks a long way to get the rudder to swing the tail. Using low rates helps a lot with smoothness, as does putting in the throttle curve suggested above.

Its almost like the old RC cars in the 70s that had "non proportional control"...just Full left and Full right....is this like that?

The telemetry is worthless....400F temp, 10,000+ rmp and voltage that is nowhere near accurate.

Originally Posted by corsair44

The telemetry is worthless....400F temp, 10,000+ rmp and voltage that is nowhere near accurate.

I believe the only telemetry it sends is the battery voltage and it ends up being shown RX voltage for some reason. At least that's what I've seen people post. You might try manually configuring telemetry.

Did a live chat with HH tonight and learned some things.

Yes, you are supposed to set this up as an airplane as stated in the manual...not a heli. He recommended removing the blades and running the drift calibration on a flat surface. The only telemetry is volts that shows up on the main tele page with volts at the top, rmp and temp below.

He said to bind it holding full right rudder to help the rudder. Yes the motor runs for a bit after you go to 0 throttle to protect the gears.

At 5 minutes my batts are at 3.7v....not flying hard at all, just hovering about 3 ft off the ground right now.

If I boot up without throttle hold on, it seems to drift less and be more stable.

I have the tail wag every time I move the tail after coming to a stop.

Are the main rotor blades the same as the SR? I can't find SR blades anywhere.

Originally Posted by CarToon

Are the main rotor blades the same as the SR? I can't find SR blades anywhere.

No .. in fact the 120SR blades won't work on the 120S. They are much thinner. I have a set and tried it once.

Originally Posted by BrokeDad

No .. in fact the 120SR blades won't work on the 120S. They are much thinner. I have a set and tried it once.

Thanks. Are there any other blades out there that will work?? I don't want to have to order them from Australia or somewhere!

Originally Posted by CarToon

Thanks. Are there any other blades out there that will work?? I don't want to have to order them from Australia or somewhere!

There are a few sets for sale on EBay. Here's one: (Just search BLH3116)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Main-Ro...6/323591891991

Thanks, BrokeDad. I just found them in Florida, using the stock number. I am broke too, after buying all this heli stuff lately!

So I realize this is an inexpensive helicopter....but does everyone else have the tail wheel "surge" randomly from time to time?