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Feb 08, 2020, 11:14 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
Help!

Jib trim / slot control


Good morning all.

I am thinking about installing a jib trim servo in my new to me older EC12 . I have a Hitec HS 645 MG to do the job. I am planning on using my Spektrum DX 6 transmitter and AR 610 receiver for this project.

My question here is, which control on my transmitter do I use for this operation ? My original thoughts were to use the landing gear or flaps control function. These however, are toggle type switches not proportional control turn type nobs . Is there an easy conversion to do this to my transmitter or is the Aileron control stick the one to use ?

I seem to remember a discussion on this topic either on the forums or somewhere else some time ago. I am just not remembering where or when I came across it.

Any advice, insights or shared experience would be very helpful, welcomed and appreciated.

Thanks.

Art
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Feb 08, 2020, 12:44 PM
a.k.a. Bob Parks
bbbp's Avatar
It may be possible to change out an unused toggle switch for a rotary knob for precise control.

Many DLG pilots change a toggle to a momentary push button for launch settings.

BP
Feb 08, 2020, 01:06 PM
John - In my private capacity
hiljoball's Avatar
For about US$60, get a new radio with the knobs for CH5 and CH6.

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...-receiver.html

John
Feb 08, 2020, 03:25 PM
Brighto?
Mike Denest's Avatar
Mine is a mode 2 set up with the jib trim on the left stick (rudder) and the sheet position (throttle). I don't have to let go of the stick to trim the headsail or the main. If I'm sheeted in and need to open the slot or ease off the main, I simply position the stick where I want it.

Rudder control is on the right stick (aileron).
Last edited by Mike Denest; Feb 18, 2020 at 06:16 PM.
Feb 08, 2020, 04:22 PM
Registered User
I've sailed with jib trim on either the rudder (left stick, left/right), and the elevator stick (right stick, up and down). I'm more comfortable with using the elevator stick, up is out and down is in .
Feb 08, 2020, 04:59 PM
Registered User
If you don’t mind cutting wires. Grab and older fm radio and take the pot out of one the sticks, Cut the wire on the up down stick on the rudder side of your radio. Solder in the the new pot. Remove a switch and put a knob on the pot and install in the hole vacated by the switch.

Or, if you are programmed in aircraft mode, use the gear switch, Just adjust your travel. Position one would be normal sailing, and position zero would be point mode.

I have a dx6i. And Ive done both. I would think the dx6 has a bit more options or a 3 position switch.

A few ways to skin the proverbial cat...
Feb 09, 2020, 11:20 AM
The wind is free, go sailing!
Scratchy101's Avatar
Get a Futaba T6K transmitter.
It has a variable rate dial above the blue light.
Feb 09, 2020, 11:49 AM
The wind is free, go sailing!
Scratchy101's Avatar
Or the Futaba T6L if you want something more basic and less expensive.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/articles/r...-and-receiver/
Feb 10, 2020, 07:12 PM
Registered User
seefest's Avatar
I’ve added jib trim several ways. If your Dx6 is a newer one, you can use the 3 way flap toggle.
The center toggle position is your base setting for your slot. This is where you do most of your sailing. Down toggle, closes the slot slightly and up toggle opens the slot. It’s not proportional, but it works ok.
You can also add an aftermarket pot and knob to an existing radio. It requires desoldering one of the unused proportional channels (rudder on left stick or elevator on right one) wires and soldering them to the pot.
The third option is buying a radio with a proportional channel knob stock. An older DX7S has a knob and can be picked up cheap.
Feb 12, 2020, 03:40 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
Thanks to all you fellows for your input and advice.

I have a few good options before me. Adapting my transmitter sounds straight forwards and easy and perhaps the most sound advice is that if I want a radio with knobs on it ...buy a radio with knobs on it . I understand now.

I think the simplest solution for me is to use the equipment that I have as it is. Utilizing the three position toggle is a very good option but I am tending towards using the elevator control stick or the rudder control stick for a starting point.

I really do appreciate your interest and advice. Thank you.

Art
Feb 17, 2020, 12:17 PM
Registered User
I'm with stevezero, use the right stick, up and down for the jib twitcher. Works really well, get the ractchet piece for your up down stick on the right of your radio, and you would be all set, just have to get used to it. I have this setup on one of my Santa Barabaras and it works very well. Ryan
Feb 18, 2020, 10:07 AM
Registered User
seefest's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rssailor
I'm with stevezero, use the right stick, up and down for the jib twitcher. Works really well, get the ractchet piece for your up down stick on the right of your radio, and you would be all set, just have to get used to it. I have this setup on one of my Santa Barabaras and it works very well. Ryan
He’s not looking for a jib twitcher, he’s looking to add jib slot fine tune. There’s a big difference.

Honestly not sure how some guys can have an additional control on the rudder stick. For jib slot fine tune, that’s means you would have to keep the desired up/down elevator steady while steering the rudder(aileron). I can’t imagine how you wouldn’t have some mixing and interaction between the two controls. I would think the jib slot would be all over the place........
Feb 18, 2020, 11:07 AM
Kevin Gault
poltergeist's Avatar
I'm using a Graupner MZ-24 on all my boats now. On my Santa Barbara, I use the "SL1" and "SL2" sliders on the back of the case for backstay adjustment and jib fine tune. The sliders have an audible beep in their center position, so really easy to have a baseline reference.

Kevin
Feb 18, 2020, 04:02 PM
Registered User
seefest's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by poltergeist
I'm using a Graupner MZ-24 on all my boats now. On my Santa Barbara, I use the "SL1" and "SL2" sliders on the back of the case for backstay adjustment and jib fine tune. The sliders have an audible beep in their center position, so really easy to have a baseline reference.

Kevin
My Hitec Optic 6 which is use for my US1M has the two sliders on the back. I use those for backstay and jib trim as well. More radios should have those sliders IMO. I think those sliders are mainly used for glider applications.
Feb 19, 2020, 11:38 AM
Registered User
[QUOTE=seefest;43849551]He’s not looking for a jib twitcher, he’s looking to add jib slot fine tune. There’s a big difference.

Honestly not sure how some guys can have an additional control on the rudder stick. For jib slot fine tune, that’s means you would have to keep the desired up/down elevator steady while steering the rudder(aileron). I can’t imagine how you wouldn’t have some mixing and interaction between the two controls. I would think the jib slot would be all over the place........[/QUOTEgroundings.



I flew precision/pattern aerobatics and 3d aerobatics with rc planes for a long time. I am comfortable using the traditonal elevator control (right stick, up and down) for my jib trim. I am constantly "flying"(adjusting) the jib, whether upwind or downwind, and during tacks, gybes, and mark roundings. sailing an entire leg of 200 yards at Elon less than. 10 ft from shore allowed the skipper to see how minute real time changes to the slot would have effect on the helm and boat speed. I added a lot of exponential to the rudder channel, to create a soft spot near the center of the stick. that compensates for any unintended movement of the rudder while walking. using a transmitter strap or radio tray also helps a LOT.

theres no one right way to do things, but there can be a lot of not as effective ways for doing things.


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