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Feb 05, 2020, 02:32 PM
mth
mth
Registered User
Thread OP
Discussion

3D printed servo tray


Are 3D printed trays any good? Is there a certain type of plastic that should be used? What’s the best way to glue them in ca or epoxy?
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Feb 05, 2020, 03:19 PM
Registered User
This can be pretty heavy.
better to laser cut some balsa.

If you want to print go with PETG.
it is not as brittle as PLA or ABS and can withstand some temperature. If you are flying in the summer sun, PLA will deform.

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Feb 05, 2020, 04:06 PM
mth
mth
Registered User
Thread OP
Thanks. Maybe I’ll stick with plywood
Feb 05, 2020, 04:37 PM
In F3J size does matter!
roydor's Avatar
I’ve been using PLA for years. Once you glue it inside the fuselage it doesn’t deform
Feb 05, 2020, 05:57 PM
solastagia
kcaldwel's Avatar
A decently designed 3D printed tray works great, and will be lighter than plywood. It is certainly more precise than anything I can make from plywood without a CNC machine. The tray for my Falcon was about 2g. I use PETG. It is quite strong, temperature resistance, and holds screws well. Glues well with CA.

Kevin
Feb 06, 2020, 10:40 AM
iVoid Warranties
flyinghedgehogs's Avatar
I use 3D printed trays in my contest models. They need ti be thicker than plywood trays for strength, so they have extra glue area too. PLA. You can also print in pull string guides and tilt on your servos.
Feb 06, 2020, 04:06 PM
1 revolution and throw!
Quote:
Originally Posted by kcaldwel
A decently designed 3D printed tray works great, and will be lighter than plywood. It is certainly more precise than anything I can make from plywood without a CNC machine. The tray for my Falcon was about 2g. I use PETG. It is quite strong, temperature resistance, and holds screws well. Glues well with CA.

Kevin
Did you print these servohorns?
Feb 06, 2020, 04:09 PM
mth
mth
Registered User
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyinghedgehogs
I use 3D printed trays in my contest models. They need ti be thicker than plywood trays for strength, so they have extra glue area too. PLA. You can also print in pull string guides and tilt on your servos.
Do you print them yourself?
Feb 06, 2020, 05:02 PM
solastagia
kcaldwel's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by krikkens
Did you print these servohorns?
Yes, I printed my own pulleys and inverted servo arms. It is the only way I could make the 11mm thick Graupner servos fit in the Falcon.

The servo splines came out far better than I thought possible with my $200 home built FDM printer, and are certainly up to DLG servo loads. The output shaft on the Graupner servos is bigger that the KST and BlueBird servos and has 23 teeth rather then the 25 of the KST servo, so the splines are a bit easier to print for the Graupner servos. BB has 19 teeth, so it might be a bit easier than the KST splines.

Kevin
Feb 07, 2020, 12:20 AM
Adam
xStatiCa's Avatar
kcaldwell, That is very interesting that PLA is working for you. Have you checked temperature of the tray after the DLG has sat in the sun for awhile? When on the field and in the prep area in the hot Florida summer sun, I bet the temps get up there quite a bit especially for black DLGs. PLA gets soft around 130f. Maybe PETG is high enough to handle the heat better but PETG is not as stiff as PLA. Thickness can make up for that but maybe it isn't enough to matter depending on the tray design.

I have annealed some PLA and PLA+ prints (heat treating) to make them handle much higher temps (higher than PETG). Using PLA+ or HT PLA as that will only shrink by 1%. Regular PLA shrinks by about 3% and deforms a little more during the annealing process. Unfortunately annealing causes shrinking in a non-uniform way depending on how the orientation of the pla being laid down but you can compensate for it a little bit by making your prints slightly larger (1%) before printing. Depending on the design, annealing might deform too much to be useful.

Anything that goes outside, I use white or clear (white is less brittle) so that the sun's direct heat doesn't affect it (based on my experience). In direct sun while PLA only got to around 101f or so in 93 degree heat. If it is next to something black though... that area will be hotter of course.

To anneal PLA, I use water at a temp where it just barely starts to have bubbles forming and suspend it with aluminum foil so that the object is just under the water and not near the sides or bottom of the pot. I find it a bit misleading that PLA+ or HT PLA is sometimes advertised as handling higher temps than regular PLA but the fine print (if there is even any) really specifies that is only after annealing.
Feb 07, 2020, 01:32 AM
solastagia
kcaldwel's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by xStatiCa
kcaldwell, That is very interesting that PLA is working for you.

I don't use PLA, I said I printed PETG. It is a bit cooler on Vancouver Island than Florida, so I've never had any temperature issues with PETG. I have black PETG parts on my bicycle, and they have worked well through two summers now, in direct sun. But we rarely get past 30C here.


Kevin
Feb 07, 2020, 03:35 AM
1 revolution and throw!
Quote:
Originally Posted by kcaldwel
Yes, I printed my own pulleys and inverted servo arms. It is the only way I could make the 11mm thick Graupner servos fit in the Falcon.

The servo splines came out far better than I thought possible with my $200 home built FDM printer, and are certainly up to DLG servo loads. The output shaft on the Graupner servos is bigger that the KST and BlueBird servos and has 23 teeth rather then the 25 of the KST servo, so the splines are a bit easier to print for the Graupner servos. BB has 19 teeth, so it might be a bit easier than the KST splines.

Kevin
I have some of these servos myself and a fuselage to small to fit them too..
I also have a printer and petg......

Can i perhaps use you drawing to print these and see if these servos will fit my fuselage?

What voltage are you running them on?
Feb 07, 2020, 11:52 AM
solastagia
kcaldwel's Avatar
I've been running the little Graupner servos on 1S for many years, they've worked great for me.

Now the only issue is remembering which of the 36 versions of arms and pulleys I actually ended up using... I think this is them. I can upload an On Shape, Rhino or Solidworks CAD file of them if you want to modify them?

I think I ended up using a 6.5mm (rudder) and a 5.5mm (elevator) pulley, and I made a left and right version of the arm so they would be aligned the same on each side (offset the splines).

Kevin
Feb 07, 2020, 01:19 PM
Barney Fife, Vigilante
tom43004's Avatar
I always use PETG or ABS and have been printing servo trays for all my ships for about 5 years.

I am even printing servo horns now for my stuff on a DLP printer. Awesome technology once you pass the learning curve.
Feb 07, 2020, 03:36 PM
mth
mth
Registered User
Thread OP
I might have to look I to getting a 3D printer.


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