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Feb 05, 2020, 09:17 AM
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no, that one shot of the cage with drivers appears to be the standard Yeti cage. It was more of the "will that body fit with the cage" that was confusing me because I didn't know what body you were referring to. The 2 bodies in your pictures look like Trophy Truck and/or SCT bodies, which probably won't fit the standard Yeti cage properly.

Any bodies or body panels designed for the standard Yeti should fit that cage though.
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Feb 05, 2020, 06:54 PM
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kodak_jack's Avatar
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I guess what was clear in my head didn't get transmitted properly. I will get the cage in the picture with the interior piece attached to it. My question was whether the body YOU ended up using on your Yeti would work with that cage. It sounds like it will. The other option, because it doesn't seem to have all of the panels that go on that cage, is to find some plane aluminum panels and put it back to what it should be. I even told the guy if it would cut down on the size of the box and the weight, I didn't have a need for the trophy truck bodies. I think the Poison Spider hood graphic is neat. I might go with bare aluminum panels dunked in a pan of Ritz blue dye and then put stickers and clear on it.
The Axial hub drive scheme seems to have mixed results. Do the aluminum hubs in front of the hex make a difference or are they just bling? As I mentioned, parts aren't out there the way they used to be. In some cases, I find anodized parts, but they're not the right color. I'm talking about going blue and those aluminum hubs are orange.
Feb 06, 2020, 08:55 AM
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I'm using the stock Yeti body, so yes.

In the pictures you posted, I see what appears to be blue knuckles and perhaps blue caster blocks. If you bash the Yeti, those can be vulnerable, like they are on any basher, so upgrading to aluminum can be beneficial. I went with STRC knuckles and caster blocks on my truck, and I have no complaints.

Feb 06, 2020, 03:52 PM
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I should be getting my Yeti tomorrow, so, we'll see what's what. There are 2 Yeti groups on *acebook and I've already been in contact with a guy who would like the trophy truck bodies. It just so happens he works for Holley!! If nothing else, I'll try to weasel some decals! I was thinking that shipping those bodies is going to require a big box and run into big bucks. I know UPS has bags you can use to ship, but I don't know if that would be good enough. I bought a body for one of my 12428's and it made it all the way from China in perfect shape. Others who bought the same body didn't make out as well.
Feb 07, 2020, 03:00 PM
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I got my Yeti today and am more than disappointed. I hooked up my FlySky receiver to my transmitter. Steering is fine, but the transmission sound like a bucket of marbles and NONE of the wheels turn. The guy I traded with says it ran OK when he put it on a shelf a year ago.
Feb 07, 2020, 09:08 PM
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A little long, so, bear with me:
I took off the spur and slipper cover and tried moving the spur gear by hand. I barely got 1/8 of a turn before it bound up. I removed the rear drive shaft and it didn't help. That left the transmission or the front gearbox. I took out the screw that goes through the driveshaft and into the front gearbox input shaft. That let the spur gear and everything behind it turn OK. I took out the front gearbox and it seemed fine. When I put it all back together again, the bind showed up as soon as I put the screw back in. I thought I might try shimming the front of the gearbox. It must have taken just enough stress off of the joint that it started turning OK with the screw in place. I added about .030" - not a lot, but apparently enough. Now, one of the flat head screws holding the bottom of the gearbox to the frame is rounded. I'll try slotting it tomorrow and see if I can get it out and replace it. Remember, stainless steel is good for rust prevention, but it's soft as far as stress is concerned. Thread elongate and heads round easily.
I don't know why exactly, but this one has a centered rear pumpkin. I thought they were all offset?
Feb 07, 2020, 09:40 PM
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Brake Weight's Avatar
I canít really troubleshoot the front diff for you, but it should have an OCP rear axle. Post some pics of it. If itís the same width it may be a better, or worse, aftermarket axle. If the drivetrain will spin freely without the front diff hooked up then the binding is definitely there.
Feb 08, 2020, 07:36 AM
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The rear end is shown in the pictures I posted from the Marketplace ad. I took the diff cover off and it's greased and spins OK. With this Yeti, I also got another chassis minus the electronics and the rear end. All of the drive train stuff on that chassis is plastic and turns as smooth as can be. This one has a metal transmission. I'm not saying that is a problem, just that it's an upgrade/ different. I was more than surprised to take that front gearbox out and find an open bottom on the case. The grease is held by a part of the frame instead of it having its own bottom plate. In any event, I found nothing wrong with the diff or the other stuff connected with the box. All I knew was that when I put the screw into the front driveshaft, it bound up. I added a plastic .030" shim under the box to see if doing that would take any of the stress off of the driveshaft joint and it worked. All of the screws coming up through the chassis are flat heads to avoid them getting caught on anything. That also puts a bind on any adjustments you might think need to be made. Now, I have to get out one of the rounded screws that holds the front gear box to the frame.
Feb 08, 2020, 08:45 PM
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Panels


Well, it's pretty dang cold and I got tired of reading, so, I made some body panels. The only real problem I'll need to deal with is the readily available material I had is Galvanized sheet metal. I'll have to treat and prime it before paint.
Getting back to the front gearbox, I found this picture that is supposedly an XL gearbox. Since it's a bigger buggy, is it a different gearbox (larger)? The reason I ask is because this gearbox look as if it has a bottom to it. As I said, this is my first Yeti and I was very disappointed to find a completely open bottom.
Along with the full Yeti, I got a second chassis and a big bag of parts on parts trees. Does that mean one or both were kit versions? Also in that bag of parts was 1/2 of a centered rear axle housing with grease still in it. The axle housing on the Yeti has a diff cover with a lot of screws in it, not the 4 screws I see on the aftermarket covers for the AR60 off center rear end. I don't know how clearly that showed in the previous pics.
Feb 12, 2020, 03:04 PM
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Help!!


I'm stumped and hope someone has an answer. My Yeti came with BF Goodrich Baja T/A tires mounted on plastic wheels that say "Method" on them. I also got a set of BF Goodrich Krawler T/A tires mounted on what I assume to be stock plastic wheels. I have nothing available that can reach down into the center of the wheel and tighten the locknuts!! A Metric socket has too much wall thickness and even a cheap plastic nut wrench that comes with many vehicles won't get in there either. Any ideas? Is there a special wrench?
Feb 12, 2020, 04:55 PM
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Brake Weight's Avatar
I have a metric allen wrench/nut driver set that fits mine.
Feb 12, 2020, 10:23 PM
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kodak_jack's Avatar
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The nut is way down into the wheel and a standard Metric 7 MM socket won't fit in there. I searched through other sockets I had and found a 1/4" drive 7 MM socket that is necked down considerably and it just fits down in. I now have the BIG Krawler wheels and tires on it.
Feb 13, 2020, 02:40 PM
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odd. I never found the wheel nuts to be a problem on my Yeti. The typical t-shaped wheel nut that comes with RCs seemed to be fine, as is my 7mm nut driver that I use for all of my RCs.
Feb 13, 2020, 08:02 PM
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My plastic T-wrench wouldn't fit. I thought of grinding down the outside to make it fit, but then there wouldn't be anything left to work on the nut. The Craftsman socket I got to work is #: 43503

https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Poi.../dp/B078GFG4HZ

The shoulder that's formed where it is necked down just barely made it in far enough to do the job. The OD was the same way. The adapters have a raised boss that sticks up through the wheel that also narrows down the opening.

http://www.axialracing.com/products/ax80128
Feb 23, 2020, 11:10 AM
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kodak_jack's Avatar
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A follow up on the original problem with the front gearbox being locked up:
I originally took the front end apart and pulled the gearbox. I didn't find anything wrong with it that would cause what I had. I ended up shimming the box with a 0.030" shim and it freed up. Today, I took it apart again and discovered that one of the screws holding the box to the frame was a lousy 1 MM longer than the others. It turns out that, if in the proper side, the screw can come up through the box and hit the diff gear!! As the cigarette commercial used to say, that silly millimeter longer did make a difference. Adding a 0.030" shim took up that much of the 0.040" extra length. While it's apart, I'm going to replace the gears. I'm not exactly thrilled that a vehicle that costs this much is held together by C-clips. I guess I had better get a few extra.


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