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Mar 27, 2005, 12:50 PM
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Schweizer 1-26 One-Design Build-up


While building up the SGS 1-36 Sprite, I will be constructing my personal 1-26E from our kit components to fly at Wilson Lake and the upcoming Kansas City Aerotow.

I will post the buildup in a thread here on RC Groups. Attached is image one, the components and parts laid out before beginning the build. The color scheme is undecided.

SPECS
Scale: 1:5
Configuration: Shoulder mount wing, conventional horizontal and vertical tails.
Wingspan: 96" (2.4 meter)
Dihedral: 3.5 degrees each wing (7 degrees total).
Wing area: 857 square inches
Wing aspect: 10:1
Channels: 6 (elevator, ailerons (2), rudder, dive brakes, tow release).
Fuselage: epoxyglass with carbon tow reinforcement.
Wings: CNC Wire cut EPS, pulltruded carbon spar, wrapped carbon sleeve,
obechi sheeting.
Carry-through: 13/32" brass sleeve (11.5mm) OD, vertical grain balsa
fillers, 1/8" (3mm) tabbed laser cut ply box attached to full bulkhead.
Joiner rods: 3/8" (11mm) OD solid carbon rod (2) 8" overall length each side.
Landing gear: Nose skid (aft of CG) 2 1/2" (63.5mm) diameter main
on 5/32" steel wire axle with stop collars in 1/8" plywood mounts.
Canopy: vacuum formed clear lexan on 1/8" (3mm) ply frame,
side-hinged left side as in full scale.
Instrument panel: 1/32" G-10 glass laser cut with bezels, clear lenses, and
full color instrument faces.

The second set of laser cut parts assembled without cement in the foreground illustrates what the finished internal structure is comprised of and how easy it is to install and jig together.

Tom
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Mar 27, 2005, 12:58 PM
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Here is an image of a full scale 1-26E to show what our airframe will look like when complete.
Last edited by mmartin55; Mar 28, 2005 at 08:41 PM.
Mar 27, 2005, 01:49 PM
Increasing my carbon footprint
very cool tom!
is this build pretty much going to be like the 2M one i have? except the fuse of couse:P

later
tim
Mar 27, 2005, 02:36 PM
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Yes Tim,

The wings are foam with obechi or balsa sheeting and 3/8" OD carbon tube spars, but yes, all parts are designed to interchange from our woody kits to our composite ships.... EVERY PART!

Tom
Mar 27, 2005, 02:38 PM
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SGS 1-26 Fuselage Assembly


FUSELAGE ASSSEMBLY
Here is what you will need for the first operation:

3M Scotch-Weld DP 460 epoxy adhesive,
Mixing cups,
Sticks for mixing and applying adhesive,
Masking tape,
Rotary tool with a cutoff wheel for cutting and trimming fiberglass,
Electric drill,
5/16" drill bit for 8mm nose release
13/32" drill bit for wing joiner openings in fuselage
Hobby saw,
Hobby knife,
Sanding block with medium paper for trimming 1/8" ply as needed,
Two small woodworking "C" or quick clamps,
Small tubing cutter,
Pencil or fine felt-tip pen,
Small tape measure or ruler,

Plan drawings for the model,
Instruction book,
Glass fuse,
Laser cut parts kit,
Pushrods,
Brass joiner sleeve,
Supplied template for landing gear wheel well opening
Last edited by mmartin55; Apr 03, 2005 at 10:33 AM.
Mar 27, 2005, 02:56 PM
Mr. Innocent's Avatar
JEEZE! its rare I even have 4 of the items that were reccomended when building a plane...
Mar 27, 2005, 03:23 PM
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Tools of the builder's trade


Well you could just use a flat-blade screw driver for everything. Do you have one of those?

I am just showing the tools I use. It will make things more enjoyable if you have the right tool for the job. But that is why everyone is going to ARCs and ARFs. It doesn't take that long to build, but one must have a passion for it.

....or just send me money and I will do it for you. We will offer any of our kits in an advanced state of completion. The 1-36 I am building on this forum is going to a customer when complete.

Tom
Mar 28, 2005, 09:24 PM
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1-26 Fuselage Step 1


MARKING/CUTTING THE WHEEL OPENING

Test fit all laser cut plywood 1/8" parts inside the fuselage and align as shown on the plan drawings until you are familiar with the assembly and fit. Sand or plane any edges that cause the bulkheads to fit too tightly or require forcing them into position. They should be able to be easily fit into position. (You will not be able to seat the two wheel well mount longerons completely until you have finished the steps below but you will be able to see how they ultimately fit with the other parts and the fuselage.)

Mark the landing gear wheel well opening on the bottom of the fuselage:
With a tape measure make a small mark on the fuselage lower center line 32 3/8" from the end of the tail cone. Next, measure and mark a center line on the marking template supplied.

Place the back end of the template on the 32 3/8" line and center it on the fuselage center line. Trace it out with a pencil or felt-tip marker and cut out the marked opening with the dremel and cut-off wheel leaving the pencil line to allow for trimming if required.

Test fit the wheel mount longerons in the outer slots you've just cut and trim the opening if needed with a small emory board or file so the parts fit flush and square. Small imperfections can be cleaned up more easily with file and or filler after they are cemented in place.

NOTE: You can use the wheel well marking template as a spacer or square to make sure the longerons fit square and parallel to each other and the fuselage prior to proceeding to the next step when they are cemented into position. It is important to check for squareness to see that the axle center line is 90 degrees to the fuselage center line so the wheel tracks straight.

Total time for step 1 about 30 minutes.
Mar 29, 2005, 06:14 PM
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I should note that the markings are on the outside of the fusleage but picture better through the epoxyglass. Use fairly high speed for dremel cutting epoxy glass. It tends to want to heat up and melt so more light passes is better than cutting all the way through at once.

If you are using a flat-blade screw driver to make the cut like Mr. Innocent above, I can't help you with technique. Probably want to get it real sharp on the ole grindstone first though .

Tom
Mar 29, 2005, 06:20 PM
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whats the point of having two build threads that are pretty much the same exact model..? that's kind of just cluttering the boards... like my useless postings....
Mar 29, 2005, 07:09 PM
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Don't tell the brother's Schweizer or an aerodynamacist that they are pretty much the exact same model. That's heresy. And hey, we don't' have to pay for server space or bandwidth, plus it'll get interesting when we start building up the tails. They are very different.

And, when we get em all painted out and in the air, we can combat and make book at each thread on who is going to win out, me on the 1-26, the customer with his 1-36, or legliderman and his P-40.

Tom
Mar 29, 2005, 10:23 PM
Registered User
Hey,

I am in the middle of building my 1-26, the 60" EPP version. I've been taking pics and waiting to get some good progress before I do a build thread. Anyone interested in seeing an EPP build thread?
Mar 29, 2005, 10:38 PM
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Count me in!
Mar 29, 2005, 10:53 PM
All work and no play
legliderman's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDSUX
Hey,

I am in the middle of building my 1-26, the 60" EPP version. I've been taking pics and waiting to get some good progress before I do a build thread. Anyone interested in seeing an EPP build thread?
YES! Its always cool to see a plane come together.
Mar 30, 2005, 09:28 PM
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1-26 Fuselage Step 2


PREPARING THE WING CARRY THROUGH

The next step in constructing the fuselage is to prepare all of the parts for assembly of the carry through spar. The carry through consists of two 13/32" O.D. brass tubes which serve as the receiver sleeves for the 3/8" O.D. solid carbon wing rods. The sleeves are bedded in a 1/8" laser cut tabbed and jigged box attached to the main bulkhead, and sandwiched between vertical end grain balsa fillers.

The theory behind the tabs and the extension of the bulkhead and box front beyond the tab slots of the top and bottom caps is to provide more adhesive surface area to the box and prevent blowout of the top and bottom under severe loads.

First trim of the long grain ends off of both sides of the block with your hobby saw. These should remove easily since you are cutting with the grain. Be careful to keep the saw square to the laser kerfs.


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