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Jan 27, 2020, 09:58 PM
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Build Log

Miss Severn - 1922 Hacker Gold Cup Boat 2020 Build


I was hesitant to do a build thread on this as there are a few already and I have done many airplane build threads. But I thought, what the heck, might as well as it helps me to chronicle a build for future reference on other builds. So after much delay, as I’m currently in the middle of building a basement under our house and I just received some missing parts for the kit which Mack Products sent out immediately (Great customer service!), I have started.

First up was marking lines on a laminated particle board shelf for the build board which was harder than you think as nothing would make lines on it as the board is very smooth and slippery. I finally used a fine tip sharpie marker and it did the job, but was a little tricky.

Next I’m cutting and releasing the laser cut parts for the first few pieces that will form the keel and the heart of the boat framework.
Last edited by nhk750; Jan 27, 2020 at 10:06 PM.
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Feb 02, 2020, 10:13 PM
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Been working on the boat a little this weekend and ran into an issue. The stempost parts are 1/4” thick and should be 3/16” thick. See picture, and I haven't glued to them to keel yet. I am trying to sand down to correct thickness by hand with a sanding block I made out of plywood, but might need to get another S6 and S7 stempost 3/16”, incase my sanding skills don't pan out. Mack Products is really good about taking care of any issues and he will probably send me out some more parts next week.

So, I almost have the stempost sanded to correct thickness then I dropped it and broke it, but a little epoxy and it looks good as new. I still need to sand off another 1/16" so I am hoping the epoxy doesn't interfere with that. I don't think this will be an issue with strength as the stempost is supported by many other parts, like the sheers, chine, planking and so on, plus I can reinforce later if I feel the need. I am not sure how accurate I need to be on the sanding down of the stempost, but tomorrow I will work on it some more. It seems to me that there is a little leeway in this area after looking at the directions and build thread. But if anyone has any input that would be helpful. I am pretty good as sanding but it may be off by a mm or so when done as I am not a laser sanding machine...
Feb 02, 2020, 11:32 PM
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Mack Products just answered my question and said no need to sand down, just center the piece and glue to keel as you will later sand the part to match the v shape of the hull later. So I will just finish up sanding a little to even things out and glue. Sometimes I over think things a bit as I'm too much of a perfectionist...
Feb 04, 2020, 12:49 AM
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Got the stempost glued to the keel and looks good, tonight I brewed up some epoxy and glued a doubler onto the keel. Feels good to be building again, it's been about 6 months since my last wood hobby project.
Last edited by nhk750; Feb 04, 2020 at 01:04 AM.
Feb 04, 2020, 09:50 PM
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I got the stuffing boxes cleaned out nicely and the other keel doubler epoxied on tonight. I was very careful not to get any glue in those areas while assembling.
Feb 04, 2020, 11:36 PM
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Good start.
Sorry I didn't notice you'd started a thread otherwise I could have eased your concerns about the stempost. You end up sanding a V into it to shape the bow so it really doesn't matter what thickness it is so long as it's centred. But I can see why it would create confusion.
I have to say I loved this part of the build.
Feb 05, 2020, 10:12 AM
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Thanks, I actually sanded the stem post down to the same level as the keel so they match very closely now and I am trying to get the keel as perfect as possible as I think since it's the base of the framing it needs to be. I am sure using your thread for helpful hints along the way and also other threads, but yours is a great addition to the original build thread from Mack Products. Thanks for the help.
Feb 08, 2020, 01:14 AM
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Some slow progress.
Feb 09, 2020, 10:26 PM
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Framing begins


Made some good progress today and the next few steps go pretty quickly with results that start to look like a boat. I was a little confused with the shear installation as they are labled left and right, but is it left if the boat is upside down for construction or left if the boat is upright? But, I figured you want the laser etching and joiner pieces to be towards the hull side of the boat so they are hidden from sight and I installed left and right in reference to the boat being upside down. See pics.
Anyway, I haven't glued anything yet and wont until tomorrow night (as I have to work) so if anyone sees anything wrong let me know.
It was an excersize in patients getting all the frames into the keel, but after a few tries I managed. Also, remember the stempost issue I had earlier in the begining of this thread? I did need to sand down a bit more to get it to the same thickness as the keel or the F1 frame would not fit, but it was an easy sanding session and came out good.
Feb 10, 2020, 11:29 AM
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I did notice one thing while studying other builds, some people glue in the blocking on F-7 at this point in the build but the instructions don't really tell when to do so, except around later in the build when the hull is righted. So, I will wait until later to glue the blocks in as they are really easy to access later. I don't want to pull out or mess around with F-7 right now as everything is loose and I will glue later tonight when I get home (I'm at work right now and probably should be working).
Feb 12, 2020, 12:01 AM
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F7 was a little warped coming off the laser cut sheet, but I will straighten it out as I glue the chines on. The keel and shears are all glued into the frames now.
Feb 13, 2020, 11:14 AM
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working on chines


I haven't had much time to do anything lately, but did manage to get started on the chines. The directions say " At the stem post the chine slot bottom must be angle cut to receive the chine batten for gluing" but, there is no picture of how much to sand the angle down to. So, I looked at pictures of other builds and the instructions and used some common sense - sand enough so the chine baton will sit naturally in the slot when connected to F1 (not bowed out or sprung into the slot and enough so it will meet the other chine in the middle). I think I got the stem post slot at the right angle and will start gluing tonight.
Feb 14, 2020, 07:14 PM
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My chines are a little indented around f7 but I can work it out later. Woodworking is never perfect, you just fix as you go sometimes... I used Titebond III to glue the batons in as I felt that a 36" bead of medium CA would be hard to manage. I did however glue the points at the stem post with CA as then I could work the chines back with Titebond to the stern easier. You can see I used plenty of clamps here and one side dried overnight before I did the other, as I don't like rushing Titebond, even though the the III dries faster than II or original.
Feb 15, 2020, 11:12 AM
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Continuing on with using Titebond III for gluing on the batons as it gives me time to position and clamp. So far it’s looking pretty good.
Feb 15, 2020, 06:14 PM
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Problem with side baton alignment


So, I am running into problems with the side baton alignment in frames F5, 6, and 7. It looks like the slots were laser cut off a bit (way off on frame 6) and so the baton will not install without bending at a weird angle. See pictures.
It looks like an easy fix of just cutting the slots to fit correctly and I have checked everything over closely and it's nothing I did wrong, they just look to be cut off a bit. SO, I will wait for a few and see if anyone comments before cutting and gluing. I have looked at other threads and the build instructions and the side batons should be nice and straight for the most part with a natural flow from bow to stern and no crazy crooked spots. This is the same on both sides, and so far everything else is lining up properly, so I am sure it was just a mistake on the laser cutting.


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