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Jan 25, 2020, 07:57 PM
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Willy Nillies Eaglet 250


My first kit I built was a Carl Goldberg Eagle II a little over 20 years ago and when I saw the Eaglet 250 I couldn't help myself.

Willy Nillies has a nice bundle that includes all you need for kit in terms of adhesive, electronics (minus rx and tx), hardware, and covering. All except wheels, which I ordered the 1.25" from them but it isn't made explicitly clear that they are not included in kit and completion package. I won't use the CA glue, I prefer Titebond II at the moment.

I plan to puzzle it together and figured I'd put it up here since I haven't seen one yet.

I got the kit in on Thursday, but when I inventoried the balsa sheets I found that one had split. It looks like it was crushed during shipping and split the front landing gear form and the bottom panelling around the front landing gear. I used the balsa sheet to jig them back together and glued them up.
Last edited by Born2bwire; Jan 26, 2020 at 06:42 PM.
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Jan 25, 2020, 08:01 PM
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The first former is either a blank plynor one predrilled for the motor mount. In its backside is an outline for the front landing gear wire.

I used the patterns from Willy Nillies website to bend out the music wire and sandwiched the front landing gear in a piece of balsa and ply and glued it to former 1. I also installed the blind nuts.

The main landing gear is outlined on former 3, with the outline facing forward. The main landing gear is also sandwiched in two pieces of balsa.

With that, I dry fitted it together with the battery tray and five formers.

Then the fifth former snapped when dry fitting.
Last edited by Born2bwire; Jan 25, 2020 at 09:46 PM.
Jan 25, 2020, 08:06 PM
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So the fifth former is balsa, but the grain runs vertically so squeezing the sides of the fuselage in when fitting it makes it easy to snap.

I jigged that up and glued it together and used a scrap piece of balsa to brace it horizontally.

Then I glued the former's and battery tray in with the stringers in place to set the shape. I should have done a more careful job though because the tail is a bit offcenter.

I've got these balsa biscuits that were punched out from the ailerons on a Steven's Aero kit that I use for all my gluing. They allow me to clamp or rubber band without leaving marks. I can use them to jig up parts and have them take the pins to save marks. Really useful.
Last edited by Born2bwire; Jan 25, 2020 at 08:12 PM.
Jan 25, 2020, 08:17 PM
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Next, I should have glued in the battery wall doubles on the bottom. But I didn't realize what they were till the fuse was done. I was able to get them in regardless.

So the bottom panels go on. The second and third panels are the battery hatch. I glued the two panels to each other and used two ply rectangles for the hatch tongues. I put them in place to set the curve but didn't glue them. The bottom panels have cutouts for the gear.
Jan 25, 2020, 08:23 PM
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Next are two balsa rectangles that are placed horizontally as stringer rests. One goes on the bottom of former 3, the other at the top of former 4. There are two extra balsa rectangles that are not used but I mistakenly installed a third one at the bottom of former 4.

Horizontal notched stringer rests go in the spots without formers.

There are also two pairs of balsa rectangles for vertical braces to be placed at the notched stringer rests.

Then there's a balsa piece for the bottom of the tail tip. It's over sized so I whittled and sanded it down after gluing.

Next come the top panels after sanding them to fit. The one problem though is that the blind nut peeks out of the top of the firewall. I don't have a dremel to cut it back.
Last edited by Born2bwire; Jan 25, 2020 at 08:42 PM.
Jan 25, 2020, 08:25 PM
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Next are the stringers which are placed with the wide side horizontally. There is also a short cross stringer forward of the stabilizer.
Jan 25, 2020, 08:32 PM
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With that, I mounted the motor to test the electronics.

Willie Nillies has a 3D printed Cox engine motor mount that is just fantastic. It looks wonderful. I went with the 500 mah pack and 6x3 prop and boy that motor has a lot of thrust. It definitely has power to spare.

Testing the motor on my Willie Nillies Eaglet 250 (0 min 6 sec)
Jan 25, 2020, 08:37 PM
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So that's pretty much it for the fuselage. I put on filler and gave it a good sanding. I'll place the throw rods inside before I cover since you can't guide them through the holes in the former's afterwards.

Even usingTitebond, this only took up my Friday evening. I'll do wing next but I may need to wait for my servos to come in.

I think with this motor I'll try covering with silkspan and doing on a paint job. Weight shouldn't be a problem, the FAA already has my five bucks.
Jan 25, 2020, 08:57 PM
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And in the interim, the shop hound, who demands my time when I wait out Titebond's 30 minute clamp time.
Jan 26, 2020, 03:51 PM
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I found a slight problem is that the rudder control horn will be above the horizontal stabilizer. So I need to route one of the pushrod through the top of the fuselage. But since I want to do silkspan, I do not want.to ha e the control rod poking out. So I installed a guide tube that runs through the top of the last former to the guide hole in the next former. That way I can open the hole to the tube and feed the rod through with the covering on.
Jan 26, 2020, 03:57 PM
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Now the wing. I was going to start by gluing the ribs into the leading edge, but I found that one of my ribs was damaged by the laser cutting. It looks like the wood smoldered and burnt away.

I dug out the ashes and made a jig by sandwiching two other ribs on either side. Then I could build up the rib with balsa filler. This took about three or four sessions to compact the filler and make some overhang to sand away. I then sanded it down and put a few drops of thin CA to harden the filler.
Jan 26, 2020, 04:06 PM
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So I built up the wing by notching the ribs into the leading and trailing edges and then putting on the top and bottom wing spars. The wing doesn't jig together as tightly as the fuselage. I ended up adding a slight warp to one wing and I'll have to try to remove that when I cover.

There are blanks that go in between the ribs on the leading edge side of the spar to split the leading and trailing edge bays. I had hoped to use these to twist out the warp a bit but no luck.

I was confused a bit about the ends so I did those separately. The first rib from the root is the smaller rib with two holes. The second is the rib with the cutout for the servo. The wing tip is made by placing the blank rib perpendicular to the last rib. The wing tips is one of the few things I used CA on.

I intended to first set the dihedral and then glue in the first ribs. But I found it difficult to know how much of the spar to sand back. So I ended up gluing in the first ribs, installing the dihedral ply gauges on one side, and sanding down the first rib and spar edges of the other rib to set the angle.
Last edited by Born2bwire; Jan 26, 2020 at 07:12 PM.
Jan 26, 2020, 04:17 PM
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Next I installed the sheeting with the exception of the sheets that cover the top of the servo bay as I need to wait until I get my servos in.

I sprayed one side of the sheeting with water to give it a bit of a warp. Then I used sandbags to set the curve. When set, if there is still a gap, I use thin CA to fix it up.

I found that the forward sheets were too long. I think that they were to go over the blanks that sit between the ribs, but all my web sheets were the same size. So there is a gap above the blank that needs filling and the front of the sheets need sanding down.

EDIT: It turns out that there are two extra web sheets and that they are not to be installed in the middle bay. That would solve the top sheeting fit problem. However, I did get one web sheet that was undersized and did not notice until I installed it.

I shaped the sheeting, ribs, and leading edge by running my bar sander down from the spar and rolling it down over the leading edge to work up the curve. For the trailing edge, I ran the bar sander straight back from the spar. This worked up a good method for shaping the edges and sheeting.

That's all I can do this weekend. I've got a shipment from Brodak coming in on Monday so I should at least start covering the fuse and stabilizers.
Last edited by Born2bwire; Feb 01, 2020 at 01:40 AM.
Jan 26, 2020, 11:40 PM
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Awesome build log! Thank you for sharing!

We just finished up our company display/demo Eaglet 250 tonight. Ready to fly! Stop by an we'll take her for a spin! :-)

Sincerely,
Doug and Becky
WillyNillies.com
Last edited by Dhart1971; Jan 26, 2020 at 11:43 PM. Reason: Add pictures
Jan 27, 2020, 04:15 PM
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Looks good!


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