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Jan 21, 2020, 05:37 PM
A man with too many toys
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Ehab
Now, does any one know how to identify if this is a Rossi 40 or 45? Case unmarked. I assume it is a 40. I think Rossi marked the 45 case....anyone?
I have both and the 45 has a "45" under the exhaust port in raised numbers. The 40 has no markings.

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Jan 21, 2020, 05:52 PM
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Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by RC Man
I have both and the 45 has a "45" under the exhaust port in raised numbers. The 40 has no markings.

.
Yep, that's what I thought, thx for confirming!
Jan 22, 2020, 10:17 AM
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Cougar429's Avatar
Sam, despite a lot of threads like this devolving into character bashing there can be quite a knowledge download, as well.

I was almost exclusively 2-stroke for close to 3 decades, but after my first 4-stroke have not looked back. In fact, only one of my fleet still has the Fox Eagle IV 60 still attached and that is due to the "Need for Speed". The latest challenges were the very non-standard RCV 91, some YS120's and now a Gemini 160 twin built from two wrecks.

Still keep my hand in by going through friends 2 and 4-strokes, as well as now gas. Along the way ask for help here, as well.

Saying this as there is always the opportunity to learn new things, so good for you.

ps. With the sealed front bearing, remove the inner seal to promote lubrication.
Jan 22, 2020, 02:46 PM
Registered User
How many decades 2 stroke?
Well, for me 5.2……… letīs do a contest !



Statement was, I read, the prove is the pudding.

Test run of a MVVS 10 CCM model airplane engine. (2 min 27 sec)


I never showed this video before but interesting to see when really running an engine and adjusting the fuel air ratio. I do measure the CHT and it is indicated in the cockpit by a LED. Starts blinking in green color at 150° C. Duty cycles to 100% at 180° C. Above 200° the LED will be red with a memory function. When adjusting the fuel air ratio I cannot use the old īnose upī method to check adjusting the HSN because I use a fuel pressure regulator so the attitude of the plane doesnīt matter. By adjusting the fuel air ratio just under 180° my experience for the engine in this configuration is, the fine tuning is optimal. When after flight the LED lights red I see there is something wrong, often the glow plug has to be renewed. Often? Not really, it sometimes happens.
TF
Jan 23, 2020, 03:35 PM
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Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cougar429
Sam, despite a lot of threads like this devolving into character bashing there can be quite a knowledge download, as well.

I was almost exclusively 2-stroke for close to 3 decades, but after my first 4-stroke have not looked back. In fact, only one of my fleet still has the Fox Eagle IV 60 still attached and that is due to the "Need for Speed". The latest challenges were the very non-standard RCV 91, some YS120's and now a Gemini 160 twin built from two wrecks.

Still keep my hand in by going through friends 2 and 4-strokes, as well as now gas. Along the way ask for help here, as well.

Saying this as there is always the opportunity to learn new things, so good for you.

ps. With the sealed front bearing, remove the inner seal to promote lubrication.
Yes, they are all good knowledgeable guys, sometimes they get too serious!! LOL.

I am tempted to leave the front sealed both ways. there is no channel in the case for oil to get there, plus this shaft has pitting. I'll assess more when the BB get here.
Jan 23, 2020, 03:53 PM
AMA 46133
SeismicCWave's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Ehab
Yes, they are all good knowledgeable guys, sometimes they get too serious!! LOL.

I am tempted to leave the front sealed both ways. there is no channel in the case for oil to get there, plus this shaft has pitting. I'll assess more when the BB get here.
Wait till you get the goodie box from me. Maybe that crank will fit better. Leaving the seal on both sides is a good idea. I don't think the engine will mind the friction of the seal and I am sure the front bearing will get enough lubrication from the fuel. Assuming you are running with a good amount of oil of course.
Jan 23, 2020, 05:43 PM
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Thread OP
Yeah, I will be running my mix of 5% nitro, 10% castor and 10% Syn.

I ordered a few sets. I was toying with the idea to keep both BB sealed both sides. I think the internal grease will last a while, how long? I don't know. I may try it, run it and check on it periodically. will be a good experiment.
Jan 23, 2020, 06:07 PM
AMA 46133
SeismicCWave's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Ehab
Yeah, I will be running my mix of 5% nitro, 10% castor and 10% Syn.

I ordered a few sets. I was toying with the idea to keep both BB sealed both sides. I think the internal grease will last a while, how long? I don't know. I may try it, run it and check on it periodically. will be a good experiment.
I don't even think about the internal grease. That should be all gone in a few run. Your oil from the fuel should be ok with a seal in the back. My Rossi's love to spit fuel from the front.
Jan 24, 2020, 09:28 PM
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Thread OP
Got the BB, they look really nice. Next week will do the rebuild on this one and the MVVS 120. I found it more time efficient to rebuild a couple of engines at the same time rather than one. The set up, the tools, heating the oven and so on makes it so for me.
Jan 27, 2020, 07:28 PM
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Thread OP
So I got some spare parts from the far side of the USA, thx Mr. Hansen

The Rossi 40 is fairly clean and is ready to be re-born.
Jan 28, 2020, 05:01 PM
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Thread OP

Reborn but needs more TLC!


New hi quality BB front and rear, excellent pinch at TDC without plug and more so with plug. First back flip started, good idle....BUT...BUT, as I advanced the throttle, the carb loosened up as seen in pix. Examination of the case revealed a small crack near the carb case neck. Re-positioned it and a bit more tightened, full throttle, carbs loosened again. stopped engine, let it cool down, re tightened carb bolt and first flip starts nicely. Full throttle yielded 16,200 on 9x6 APC, still quite rich. But the carb starts to loosen up again. I don't want to stress the case anymore with more tightening. Throttled low and ran it dry of fuel.
Jan 28, 2020, 05:44 PM
AMA 46133
SeismicCWave's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Ehab
New hi quality BB front and rear, excellent pinch at TDC without plug and more so with plug. First back flip started, good idle....BUT...BUT, as I advanced the throttle, the carb loosened up as seen in pix. Examination of the case revealed a small crack near the carb case neck. Re-positioned it and a bit more tightened, full throttle, carbs loosened again. stopped engine, let it cool down, re tightened carb bolt and first flip starts nicely. Full throttle yielded 16,200 on 9x6 APC, still quite rich. But the carb starts to loosen up again. I don't want to stress the case anymore with more tightening. Throttled low and ran it dry of fuel.
Ok crank case in bad shape. Do you want me to send you a crank case? I didn't send the crank case with the other parts because shipping went from $8 to something like $19. The crank case was too wide for the small flat rate box and the crank shaft made it too heavy. I can find a small box to send you the crank case if you like.
Jan 28, 2020, 06:03 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
Thank you so much Hansen, you have been more than generous. I normally send USPS Flat rate, has hi weight limit, in padded envelopes for about $7-8. Let's wait a bit and if needed I'll pay shipping of course.

I'll run it again next few days and see what happens. Maybe more tightening and a bit of blue Loctite? I'll keep you posted.

Darn it, it looked like it would have made a great engine.

Now on to the MVVS!
Jan 28, 2020, 06:13 PM
AMA 46133
SeismicCWave's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Ehab
Thank you so much Hansen, you have been more than generous. I normally send USPS Flat rate, has hi weight limit, in padded envelopes for about $7-8. Let's wait a bit and if needed I'll pay shipping of course.

I'll run it again next few days and see what happens. Maybe more tightening and a bit of blue Loctite? I'll keep you posted.

Darn it, it looked like it would have made a great engine.

Now on to the MVVS!
A good crank case will make it a good engine. I don't think blue Loctite will do any good in your situation. You probably need to clean the crankcase and use some JB Weld on the crack. I will not tighten the pinch bolt anymore. That will just split the case more and more.
Jan 28, 2020, 06:19 PM
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Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeismicCWave
A good crank case will make it a good engine. I don't think blue Loctite will do any good in your situation. You probably need to clean the crankcase and use some JB Weld on the crack. I will not tighten the pinch bolt anymore. That will just split the case more and more.
I know you are right but I wanted to fall into denial for a little bit...LOL.


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