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Jan 17, 2020, 06:11 PM
AMA 46133
SeismicCWave's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Ehab
Moved a 1/8" of an inch? after three times in the oven and very careful wooden sticks and burned fingers! Now it is a challenge!
I use a heat gun to concentrate the heat instead of an oven. Once the sleeve starts moving soak the whole thing in some acetone for a day and put in some penetrating oil as Bert said. Then try heat again. I had one engine that took me days to get the sleeve off.
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Jan 17, 2020, 07:11 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
Yeah, I'll use my heat gun next time. I soaked it in WD40 for now, I'll try it again later. I hope to fly this whole weekend, so may be tonight or Monday.
Jan 17, 2020, 07:18 PM
Still gassin' it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Ehab
I soaked it in WD40 for now,
Aouch! If anything, that is NOT penetrating oil, and although it is misused by many for that purpose, it is one of the worst... It evaporates and then contributes to sticking, and does a lousy job of penetrating anyway on account of its viscosity.

For some reason, my employer sends me this stuff all the time despite me explicitly ordering "Penetrating oil, NOT WD-40"...

Try to find something called "IMAL": https://www.repairmanagement.nl/wp-c...n-Products.pdf one of the best I have found so far.
Jan 17, 2020, 07:36 PM
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Thread OP
WD40 is all I have now, I'll get some penetrating oil next week. I have an MVVS engine with a glow pump carb that needs some TLC. No, I wasn't going to use WD40 on it, i know...LOL
Jan 17, 2020, 07:38 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
BTW, Bert, is this ok to use on YS engines?

Try to find something called "IMAL": https://www.repairmanagement.nl/wp-c...n-Products.pdf one of the best I have found so far.
Jan 17, 2020, 08:54 PM
AMA 46133
SeismicCWave's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Ehab
Yeah, I'll use my heat gun next time. I soaked it in WD40 for now, I'll try it again later. I hope to fly this whole weekend, so may be tonight or Monday.
WD40 is not a lubricant nor a penetrating oil. It is something to displace water for wet parts. That's the reason for the name WD40. That's Water Displacement 40. Great to drive out the moisture on wet part.

I am sure you have local hardware store or automotive store where you can find acetone and penetrating oil. With the right tool it is not hard. Using the wrong tool can mess up the engine. These engines are hard to come by.
Jan 17, 2020, 08:58 PM
AMA 46133
SeismicCWave's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Ehab
BTW, Bert, is this ok to use on YS engines?

Try to find something called "IMAL": https://www.repairmanagement.nl/wp-c...n-Products.pdf one of the best I have found so far.
The most sensitive part on any YS engine is the silicone diaphragm and the plunger on the regulator. Once you remove those two parts you can use pretty much anything on the YS engine. I don't know what kind of material YS use on their orange color O-rings though. I will take off the carburetor and keep those O-rings from petroleum products also.
Jan 17, 2020, 09:36 PM
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Thread OP
On YS I only use special YS oil for rebuild and storage, I'll look up the can sometime but I think it came from Performance specialty?
Jan 17, 2020, 09:55 PM
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Thread OP
Well, I didn't want to wait till Monday so I went at it, After heat, a bunch of new swear words that I invented, I got the sleeve out. This poor engine had better days.
The shaft seems to have been cut?
The front bearing is actually good but its open, I plan to replace it with sealed BB.
Good thing I didn't run it, the back BB is SHOT!!! it is missing balls!
The piston sides look great, The top has been pitted from BB particles.
The shaft has lots of carbon build up,I was able to scrape a lot of it out, needs more elbow grease.
The bottom con rod is a bit loose on the shaft pin, the top is excellent and tight, probably wasn't broken in properly!
I'll order some sealed BB.
Love them Rossi's
Jan 17, 2020, 11:37 PM
Scott
Pylonracr's Avatar
Sam, throw the bearings in the garbage. Take every part that is not rubber and drop it in a jar of acetone for 2 or 3 days. Pull the parts out one at a time and scrub them with a soft paint brush. At this point they should be clean enough to assess the damage. From what I can see in the photos, once cleaned you should be able to reassemble with new bearings. The piston top and combustion chamber may need a little love, but it is hard to tell now. Post some pics when it is clean.

Scott
Jan 18, 2020, 01:10 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
Do you recommend fully sealed BB for front and back or open as was used in this old boy? I prefer fully sealed, but I am open ears.

I am amazed the engine has a pinch without the head on, I am thinking once cleaned up it will run fine. I don't expect it to run like new, just give me 16k and I am happy...
Jan 18, 2020, 01:53 AM
Still gassin' it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Ehab
BTW, Bert, is this ok to use on YS engines?

Try to find something called "IMAL": https://www.repairmanagement.nl/wp-c...n-Products.pdf one of the best I have found so far.
I'm pretty sure it will attack the silicone regulator parts,
Jan 18, 2020, 09:55 AM
Registered User
Cougar429's Avatar
If the build up is old castor the best methods for cleaning are soaking it in raw fuel or straight methanol, (even better) or dropping it into hot glycol anti-freeze.

Believe me, that last one can remove some pretty hard deposits in as little as 30 minutes and have everything shiny again. Just ensure whatever you use to heat it never gets used for food production again. I personally have a crock pot bought at a resale shop for $8 and filter the glycol before storing it so can be reused indefinitely.

Once clean wash with water and then oil since with any protection removed the atmosphere can start corrosion immediately. I use a 50/50 mix of ATF and Air Tool Oil, but either should work fine.

As for bearings: If removed not worth reinstalling. Just go new. I use sealed for the front with the inner seal removed to help lubrication. Only caveat is on YS where there is a seal in the case behind that front bearing. The larger rear bearing is almost always open cage.
Jan 18, 2020, 11:44 AM
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Thread OP
The rear BB is badly stuck to case, so far heat and smacking on wood has not worked. I'll try more next week. Weekends are for flying when ever possible.
Jan 18, 2020, 12:32 PM
Registered User
Old guys like myself use Marvel Mystery Oil for situations like this to reassemble the motor....As did Clarence Lee for decades...When I used to have nitro burners I would squirt a mixture of MMO and automatic transmission fluid in the motors as an after run oil...Keeps rust away and stops the motors from gumming up...

I would disassemble the motor, use a soft wire brush on a wheel on the rusted areas that aren't a wearing surface on the crankshaft, and soak those bearings/parts in MMO...Reassemble the motor using MMO as an assembly lube...And after every flying session use it as an after run oil.

Nitromethane mixed with water (water is in the air) causes nitric acid which will rust away ferrous metals and corrode non-ferrous metals such as aluminum and brass...The MMO provides not only a rust prohibiting layer but also displaces moisture and helps to block off air from coming in contact with the parts during storage...

As far as the bearings go---If they are pitted ORDER NEW ONES!!!...Pitted bearings will slough off tiny bits of metal where this metal finds it's way into the combustion chamber, causing the glow plug to become metal contaminated and either burn out or fail to operate as it should (catalytic action)...You don't want a flameout at the worst possible time.

Kevin
Last edited by Kevin Greene; Jan 18, 2020 at 12:40 PM.


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