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Jan 15, 2020, 02:36 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
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Off Topic - steam tugs


Steve - I contacted Russell who in turn, contacted an enthusiast in the UK and Port New Plymouth didn't have any tugs before 1971! So the only steam tug operating from the port may have been the Otago. Looks good enough for a model one day (albeit a fairly large one). Now I can start researching any formal info - plans, lines etc. Maybe another boat of the same class is around somewhere.

Many thanks, Pat
Latest blog entry: Changes of Direction
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Jan 15, 2020, 03:08 PM
Registered User
Very Yar boat there Pat, the transition to boats is not hard at all and they last longer, unless they sink!
Jan 17, 2020, 06:09 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
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A start on the top planking


FF - yes they dont fall apart quite so readily when they hit terra firma (just a soft bank!). btw - wer'e talking model planes vs boats..........

The first planking layer was sanded and a gap-filling two part putty applied as reqd. to fix gaps/hollows. Almost none needed. This was done after a thinned Z-poxy coat which was brushed into gaps.

Then I started the top planking. Since the change in direction was at the same angle as the stem post, that's where I started as the real boat seemed to do. Each plank was cut with a slight beveled undercut on the gluing edge to allow a close fit when glued in place. As before, the strip was given a bead of Titebond II on the edge and some brushed CA accelerator on the back, a small bead of thick CA put on the hull where the plank is to be fitted, and the strip carefully fixed at the keel end and carefully pressed into place working down to the deck edge. I used rubber gloves as I got a lot of glue on my fingers. After some trial and error, I managed almost no gaps and and a good glue join on both edges. Only a touch of sanding needed - mostly due to wood variation. I am liking Basswood (Lime in UK and Europe) - easy to bend and cut, light weight and available.
Now just a slow slog - what is shown is two days worth of effort (very part time)

Pat
Latest blog entry: Changes of Direction
Jan 17, 2020, 06:18 PM
Registered User
I hope it's a trick of perspective but it looks like there's no way that's going to fit in your car.
Got a roof rack?
Jan 17, 2020, 07:34 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
Thread OP

It Fits......


Steve that was one of the first things I checked to determine scale! 1/16 scale was a bit big and 1/24 seemed about right The car in the background of most of my photos is my wife's little Honda Jazz. The boat would almost fit with the passenger seat forward and the back seats folded. Just!

Pat

ps Russell put me onto a couple of good books regarding my Fairmile searches - I have found both in NZ shops! He is a very enthusiastic person on naval matters generally and has been a great help to me
Latest blog entry: Changes of Direction
Jan 18, 2020, 03:28 PM
Registered User
Yes, he is the go to guy regarding NZ tugs. He just sent me an original set of hull lines and GAs for the Aucklander steam tug. His tugboats.co.nz site is a great asset.

Interesting that New Plymouth didn't have any tugs prior to 1970. Probably because the harbour was only developed in the early 60s.

Waitara, just up the coast, was the very first export port in NZ (1823) and it also had the region's first railway line, linking the port to New Plymouth. Patea and Wanganui were also very busy right up until Port Taranaki opened.
Last edited by steve mahoney; Jan 18, 2020 at 03:38 PM.
Jan 20, 2020, 11:40 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
Thread OP

No, I haven't stopped yet.......


A brief but hectic family re-union over the weekend consumed most of my time and a lot of limited energy but it was a great occasion renewing acquaintances with distant members of the family I luckily married into. grand children, great grand children and many other in-laws made for an exhausting time. But now, back to the Fairmile.
One of the delights of New Zealand is having access to many mail-order businesses catering to our hobby. I was advised of a book shop in Auckland called "Boat Books" - what a place. They had a copy of Fairmile Flotillas of New Zealand - what a treasure trove of historical and photographic information. I really enjoy the many pictures of deck fittings, Rolls Royce 40mm guns, etc........I ordered on Saturday and am reading it on Tuesday!
On with the build - now about one third of my way along the hull with the top layer of 1.6mm Bass (Lime). It's getting easier each plank as I develop better tecniques of gluing and handling. All great fun....Thanks for the heads up on the books Steve - this forum is great
Pat
Latest blog entry: Changes of Direction
Jan 25, 2020, 11:24 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
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At Last......


A few more days work and finally, the whole hull has two layers of 1.6mm bass diagonal planking. The last couple of days have been almost too hot with wood drying out in the 30 deg C workshop and showing a tendency to break rather than negotiate the tight radius curves around the stern. But it is now all done and will get a whole heap of sanding........plenty of thickness to play with but I want to leave a trace of visible evidence of the outer layer for scale sake!

After sanding, I hope to get a couple of coats of thinned Z-poxy Finishing resin while we have hot weather, more fine sanding and see if any filling is needed. Esp. on the underside.

I am really looking forward to removing the boat from the jig and trimming the planking level with the deck.

Pat
Latest blog entry: Changes of Direction
Jan 27, 2020, 10:22 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
Thread OP

Up the right way for a boat!


After some thinned finishing resin (more to come) the two prop shaft mounting tubes were fixed in place with epoxy and the areas around given a good dose of resin. A little wait and then Voila! I could cut the upside-down hull loose and look at the inside for the first time The were even spider-webs in the corners! A careful bit of sawing with a broken hack-saw blade removed most of the excess planking material and now it looks like a boat rather than a stranded whale!
After a good deal of shaping around the deck edge area, the inside will get a good dose of finishing resin - hopefully on a hot day if I can work fast enough!

The alignment jig for the last few weeks is now a very simple up-the-right-way stand.

Now, thinking about the motor mounting when the interior is waterproof!

Pat
Latest blog entry: Changes of Direction
Jan 28, 2020, 08:42 AM
Registered User
tghsmith's Avatar
its a great feeling to get it off the board!!!! things look correct so much faster.. now time to make a work cradle..
Jan 28, 2020, 02:03 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
Thread OP
tgh - it's only been 3 weeks but seems a lot longer since I glued the frames to the hull. In retrospect, I'd add a couple more stringers to support the round bilge shape plus a few more frames - esp. at the front! But all is well now.
A warm day is looming so I'll get the interior sealed with slightly thinned Z-Poxy.
...and yes, I must devise a work stand...hmm

Pat
Latest blog entry: Changes of Direction
Jan 29, 2020, 07:06 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
Thread OP

Power Plant fits!


The prop shafts and tubes will be soldered (or siliconed) into some 10mm brass tubes which have been epoxied into the hull. Now it was time to see if the twin 12 volt 600 size brushed motors can be fitted and will they be in alignment? They have been tentatively assigned a space between frame stations 13 and 15 - exactly where the original twin 630 hp Hall-Scott petrol engines were fitted. (In the Kiwi version). This does mean a fairly long 4mm prop shaft but it supported by two bronze bushes in the 30cm prop tube plus another external bush near the prop (when I work out how to make it). There is plenty of space for 2/3S LIPO batteries a little bit forward and as shown in the pictures, the boat can be balance at exactly at it's centre of gravity but with plenty of room for adjustment. I probably wont fit such big LIPOs but they were on hand (ex a crashed 1/4 scale WW1 SPAD biplane - it was 15 lb and 80" span and the motor drew about 60-80 amps at 35 volts) It was a great model to fly but a sad day when an aileron servo failed

Back to the future - the interior has had one thinned coat of finishing resin and now I'm happy with the layout, it can have another coat.

Pat
Latest blog entry: Changes of Direction
Feb 05, 2020, 08:25 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
Thread OP

A Few Brass bits.....


I was partway through giving the hull some resin water-proofing treatment when I realised I'd not done the rudders or the outer strut/bearing for the props!
So the lower bushes for the rudders were made and a suitable size brass washer soldered at an angle while fitted to the hull. It is epoxied in place. Another brass tube 'bush' will be fitted at the top end later.
The outer prop shaft bearing bracket was fabricated from scraps of .8 and .4mm sheet plus some brass tube. The shaft was set in place so allow the bracket to be built in-situ at the correct angle and position. I used silver-bearing soft solder so it could be done in place on the hull with an 80 watt iron.
A handy 'tool' is a glass reinforced cloth to minimise damage to the hull while soldering. Used by fabric crafts folk (my late wife) for hot ironing of delicate fabric items.
The 40mm LH/RH brass props are from SAB in Christchurch NZ.
Rudder are .8mm brass sheet with 3mm shafts.

A lot of tidying up to do but everything seems to be working out.

Pat
Latest blog entry: Changes of Direction
Feb 05, 2020, 10:23 PM
boat butcher
the goon's Avatar
Lookin' great.

Mark
Feb 10, 2020, 11:36 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
Thread OP

That Steep Learning Curve Again.......


Thanks Mark

The motors, ESC etc all work fine. I can throttle back and forward so the electrical stuff is OK - even the rudder servo.
But.........I have some horrible vibrations in the prop shafts at mid- range revs I lengthened the shaft housing by adding a few cm inside the hull so the long shaft (over 400mm) had a bearing (bronze bush) at each end but it got worse! then I twigged (maybe). 450mm between motor and prop is probably a bit long for a 4mm stainless shaft. Maybe it should be next size up (about 3/16" 04 5mm). I'll try opening out the bushes and run a length of ordinary steel music wire and see what happens. If that helps, I'll order some stainless rod and start again.

the other factor is that the motors maybe a bit speedy for this sort of boat. I've no info on turns etc. They are 6-12volt 600 brushed motors and i'm using 2S (7-8V) and things do seem a bit quick. But it can be worked out, I'm sure

The underside of the rear hull looks a bit messy but I'd just started thinking about the finishing when I remembered the props and rudders so it's its looking a bit rough around the edges

I found a Fairmile B on thingiverse and it just managed to print on my tiny Turnigy printer. 1:200 I think.....

Pat
Latest blog entry: Changes of Direction


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