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Dec 10, 2019, 03:01 AM
Foam is where the heart is
brett.c's Avatar
Nice build
Like your thingamyjig. Especially the jig for clamping the wings in place. I'll have to make something similar.

I guess with all that paper covering you won't be going for the EIIIs original wing warping controls

I find that brown paper covering isn't all that ding proof, but it does add a lot to the strength to the build. It also provides a good painting surface.
I use a similar covering method to Springer. One thing that I have noticed is that if you do get a ding it will magically disappear with the application of boiling hot water.
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Dec 10, 2019, 08:45 AM
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Captain Dunsel's Avatar
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Thank you, Brett!

No, no wing warping desired (not even possible, I suspect, with papered foam wings). I could claim the Eindecker to be a model of the modern homebuilt, although that has barn door ailerons and not strips.

I'll have to try the hot water method on the test wing I made up. So far, I haven't had any severe dents to patch. What I have noted is that the glue/paper combo is a bit fragile. It chips and cracks, the edges peel loose (probably my fault in not gluing it down securely enough).

One handy gadget I use is shown under the tailplane. It's a pine block, tapped for a 1/4 X 20 bolt. I made up four (each from two pieces of scrap molding, hence the nails). They make nice stands for bracing tailplanes, etc., during gluing.

CD
Dec 11, 2019, 10:24 AM
treefinder
springer's Avatar
Neat jig! Much better than the odd assortments of scrap wood blocks that find their way from the wood shop to my build table , have to make one or two!

Interesting discussion on the paper. My experience of one plane agrees. It seems to me that the wbpu and filters are a bit tougher, but the round pieces are more fiddly to apply in organized manner, and final surface isn't as smooth. I have not tried wbpu with paper, but I think the titebond has much better "grab" and wbpu would allow the paper to unwrap before it cures. I am going to apply filters over the seaplane hull wetted bottom area as an attempt at more durable surface. We will see how that works.
Dec 11, 2019, 08:39 PM
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Captain Dunsel's Avatar
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My wife and I hit the fitness center pool three mornings a week, spending about 45 minutes each day, splashing back and forth. Not much to occupy one's mind (except for remembering not to try to breathe water). So, I do a lot of my design thinking as I flounder along (not a good swimmer -- happily the water's no deeper than 5').

So, this morning, as I was swimming along, I was thinking about the Eindecker's cowling. Originally, I was going to do it by cannibalizing an empty bleach bottle bottom, but then decided to make it load-bearing by using foam block. It suddenly struck me that I should've extended the fuselage sides all the way to the front of the cowling, added foam 'cheeks' and a top block, then carve and sand to shape. Grumble...

So, I've added a foam box to the front of the firewall, extended the fuse sides. The box is on the sides and top, with the bottom left open. I plan to add the top block, tack on the cheeks, and do the sanding, then pop off the cheeks and paper the fuse (should be stronger and easier to do than papering the compound curved cheeks). When it's dry, I'll add the cheeks, which I may cover with glue & 1/2 oz. fibreglas.

I pulled the plans from post 1 as I'm re-drawing them to include the paper diamonds, altered nose, and other updates. I should have the posted by the weekend, though.

CD
Dec 11, 2019, 11:17 PM
flyin' fool
goldguy's Avatar
Try floating on your back. They say it's better for concentration.
Dec 12, 2019, 08:46 AM
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Captain Dunsel's Avatar
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Two shots of the Eindecker's new nose. I'm redrawing the plans to omit the second front bulkhead. The new fuse sides will go straight from the wing LE to the cowling.

What annoys me the most about this is that I used the same method on some bigger models I built a few years ago. For example, for a Cub, I put the nose doubler on the outside of the cowling and used it to simulate the cowling.

Problem with floating on my back is that I'm a sinker, not a floater. If I keep moving, so I don't sink, I have to keep track of the ceiling so I don't bang into the end of the pool (again!).

CD
Dec 13, 2019, 06:50 AM
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Captain Dunsel's Avatar
Thread OP
Had a quiet day at home, yesterday, so got a lot done on the cheeks & cowling. Looking at how shallow the curves are, I decided to go ahead and glue the cheeks on (after I'd sanded mostly to shape by themselves).

CD
Dec 14, 2019, 07:11 PM
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Captain Dunsel's Avatar
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Got a bit done today; Bored out and sanded the cowling to shape, bent and soldered the landing gear/undercarriage, sanded the fuse, and put on the pre-coat of glue & water on the fuse.

I suspect the original Eindecker's cowling was meant to collect and channel the exhaust (burnt gas, oil, and raw gas) away from the pilot and (flaming) machine gun, not to provide streamlining.

CD
Dec 15, 2019, 02:31 AM
Foam is where the heart is
brett.c's Avatar
Starting to take shape
Dec 15, 2019, 05:14 PM
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Captain Dunsel's Avatar
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Before I paper a plane, I give it a coat of 50/50 glue/water, sand it smooth, then vacuum it. Next step is paper strips at all the joints (fin/fuse, fuse/tailplane, and so on). Very much the same as covering with shrinkfilm (just takes longer, but no burnt fingers).

Yesterday, I did the prep coat; this morning, I did the thin strips, then this afternoon, I did the rest of the fuse (didn't get to the fuse part on the wing as I forgot it...oops -- tomorrow!).

CD
Dec 16, 2019, 08:48 PM
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Captain Dunsel's Avatar
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Not much to show (so no piccies), but I got the wing/fuse part covered, a second coat of thinned glue on the fuse, and some filler on the nose/cowling.

CD
Dec 24, 2019, 04:11 PM
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Captain Dunsel's Avatar
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In between a wedding, prepping for Christmas, and our usual business, I've gotten a few things done. The bird's been primed and sanded; the fin and rudder got painted (flat white Rustoleum) today, and I got underway on the 'pilot' and 'gun'.

I want to drill holes in the wing for the rigging, making each strand one, continuous piece from the kingpost to the landing gear. For that, I'm waiting for my drill press to show up. Once that's done, I can proceed with painting the wing. I'll probably paint the fuse (mostly Rustoleum camouflage tan & Krylon silver) whilst I'm waiting on the drill press.

Meanwhile, Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah to all!

CD
Dec 26, 2019, 11:48 AM
Rather be flying
tsudduth's Avatar

FFF Eindecker from the past


Here's a link to one I built years ago. It flew well and lasted a good while for a FFF build. I would categorize it as a stand off very far scale build as well.To achieve the correct CG, I had to mount most of the electronics and battery just behind the fire wall. It had a very short nose in front of the LE.


https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...-FFF-Eindecker
Dec 26, 2019, 01:37 PM
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Captain Dunsel's Avatar
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That was a cutie, Tom!

I built the Ziroli Eindecker from Flying Models' plans, back around 1982. Powered by a Veco .19, it flew okay, but needed a LOT of nose weight. I was thinking of that when I drew up this Eindecker, so I made the nose longer...then made it longer still. Hopefully, it'll balance without needing much ballast.

Yesterday, I sprayed a coat of khaki on the fuse and control surfaces. I hope the paint dries harder than it is, now, as it's pretty vulnerable to dings and scratches.

For now, my plan is to drill through the wing and insert thin plastic tubing. The rigging 'wire' (fishing line) will go from the kingpost, through the holes, then be gathered short of the landing gear. From there, a length of elastic thread to a hook, to the landing gear. My thinking is that will let the line 'give' in flight.

CD
Dec 26, 2019, 04:59 PM
Foam is where the heart is
brett.c's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Dunsel
Yesterday, I sprayed a coat of khaki on the fuse and control surfaces. I hope the paint dries harder than it is, now, as it's pretty vulnerable to dings and scratches.
I find that paint causes the paper to soften up and the surface becomes prone to dings etc. However, after a few days it hardens up and becomes more durable.
Dings can be easily removed using boiling hot water. That's if the paint will take it. Thus far I have never had a problem with either water or enamel based paints.


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