Must-do mods for Piccolo Fun? - RC Groups
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Mar 14, 2005, 01:09 PM
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dstrout's Avatar

Must-do mods for Piccolo Fun?

After some internal debate (and not getting what I wanted for it on Ebay ), I have decided to put together & fly my Piccolo Fun. I'll be using the Piccoboard Plus (or whatever it is -- has HH module, but not RX) for the moment. If I get it flying at all & like it, I'll switch to separates & cd-rom brushless, but I'm not willing to put another $200 into it before it ever leaves the ground.

Anyway, my intention was to build it exactly to the manual, rather than my usual "spirit of the manual" (prop in front, tail in back, battery in between) mode that I use for my airplanes. But, if there are any "must-do" mods, I'd like to know about them now. I don't mind putting another $40-50 into it, but I'd like to avoid spending more than that.

Also, where is a good place, other than helihobby (want to avoid), and hobby lobby (already know), to find piccolo parts?

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Mar 14, 2005, 02:55 PM
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∆nima's Avatar
These upgrades will make the biggest difference and should be done first, not that you cant fly it stock.

1. Ball bearings for head teeter, main shaft and tail.
2. Lipo batt
3. CNC ar link
4. ball in swash

Look on the ikarus picolo forums for info on blade trimming to pick up the headspeed a little to improve cyclic.
should be around $40 worth, i got everything in sterling so its hard to say.
Mar 14, 2005, 03:53 PM
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dstrout's Avatar
cool, thanks. What's an "ar link" -- that one I don't recognize...

Mar 14, 2005, 04:02 PM
Registered User
anti rotation link. the bit of plastic that is connected to the main shaft and the swashplate, it prevents the swash from rotating. get it? got it lol!
I don't like to advertise for helihobby but they got nice pictures hehehe!! so go to this link and scroll down to almost the bottom, you will find them there.......
Mar 14, 2005, 04:10 PM
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Mod-junkie's Avatar
I just got done building my pic fun kit and the bearings are a must the nylon ones are garbage.
Also later on you might want to pick up an aluminum swash.
Mar 14, 2005, 04:19 PM
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did you all forget about the cnc hub?
Mar 14, 2005, 04:45 PM
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lorents's Avatar
Get the anti-rotation link with two arms - that will keep the swashplate steadier.
Alu swash plate is great, but you can also get the plastic swashplate for Piccolo V2 - this one has a ball in the middle.

Lipos are a must...

You dont need the alu hub until you crash and break the plastic hub

Mar 14, 2005, 04:52 PM
top enforcer
kramer's Avatar
Wire landing gear,will save on frustration
Mar 14, 2005, 07:46 PM
Blade Springs "Rock"
You can avoid the "death wobble" by installing rotor springs......

Mar 15, 2005, 02:37 AM
A man without a plan
helifrek's Avatar
if you have the stock tail setup you might want to invest in the DD (direct drive) tail rotor system, with your HH gyro and a DD tail, it should be rock solid. or, for $14 bucks "I think" you can get a ducted fan tail. works good with a HH gyro, I don't know which is better, I just like the way it looks also, I would invest in a one way kit as this will make flying smoother. sudden rpm changes in the motor = torque changes which will affect the yaw, so... that is a good investment but not absolutely necessary for it to fly well, I have a cut down FP w/o one and it flies well. good luck and keep us tuned in on your progress.

Mar 15, 2005, 02:53 AM
Kšnni Perkele
cormu's Avatar
The 7.2 v tail motor is aa must if u use lipos (3cell)
and you would probablly need to upgrade the FETS and BEC on the piccoboard + i have PB+ and blew the fets real fast with liopos and a 310 motor .

You will need to use 2 IDENTICAL BEC regulators otherwise they do not share the load equally My board was cutting out all the time untill i added the second BEC now it has worked flawlesslly for over a year and half

the FETS are a higher ampage rating 10 A the origional ones are only 5 -8 amps if i remmebr corectlly
Here is a link to the mods i made on the picco board sorry but all part numbers are for RS I am in Finland.

Mar 15, 2005, 06:13 AM
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dstrout's Avatar
Cool, much thanks! Two questions: 1.) can anybody suggest a good place to get this stuff? and 2.), are those rototr springs a home-made thing, or something you can pick up?

I started building last night, and almost immediately stopped. Those plastic bushings look like they would be a real bear to get back out, so I'm going to wait until the bearings come and just install them to begin with. I though my Eco bearings were going to fit, but no such luck

I'm already set on the lipo front -- I have 3 or 4 2-cell packs of the qualcomm 950 phone bats from the Eco, plus a truckload of Etec 2s1p 1200's for my planes.

Last edited by dstrout; Mar 15, 2005 at 06:19 AM.
Mar 15, 2005, 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by cormu
The 7.2 v tail motor is aa must if u use lipos (3cell)
and you would probablly need to upgrade the FETS and BEC on the piccoboard + i have PB+ and blew the fets real fast with liopos and a 310 motor .
That's with 3s, right? I'll be flying 2s1p lipos. Should I still go with either the "high authority" tail motor, or direct drive? I've got a johnson 250 with a 3x2 GWS prop on it from a pocket combat wing I could use. Or buy a DD kit.

Mar 15, 2005, 10:10 AM
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cormu's Avatar
Ya that was with 3 cells, I dont beleave i have heard of anyone having trouble with 2 cells, But do buy the GWS high voltage tail motor and DD
I have had same motor now for over a year and its still going strong .. Before i changed it i was blowing a motor every other week including the Pic pro motors , the one im using now was ripped out of a IPS drive. sounds like the motor u have is perfect
3x2 is corcet size prop .
Mar 15, 2005, 01:10 PM
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dstrout's Avatar
Holy smokes! I just priced a bearing set -- $30 from Helihobby, $39 from Boca, and $50 from hobby lobby! I'll check & see if maybe the bearings from my Eco will fit, and were just tight, but I think plastic bushing + white lithium greese may have to do

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