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Nov 08, 2019, 04:31 PM
ffkiwi
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhodgson
Using a metalised mylar instead of transparent gives a solid colour.
Could even be part of weathering with metal showing through paint?
I've done this-only once-the effect is the opposite of what you'd expect-the high reflectance of the aluminised mylar effectively 'sucks the colour' from the tissue layer and you get a slightly coloured silver mylar effect-not the solid colour you'd expect. I use only clear mylar if I'm applying tissue over it-and keep the aluminised stuff for tailplanes or wingtips where I want the high reflectance as an aid to visibility....

ChrisM
'ffkiwi'

PS The opposite also applies with aluminised mylar-I once made the mistake (many years past) of completely covering an open rubber model airframe in 5um aluminised mylar-it was invisible in the air once it was a couple of hundred yards away-the mylar reflects the surroundings.
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Nov 09, 2019, 07:36 AM
*jj
*jj
Registered User
OOH, I have made a model with yellow tissue over metallised mylar: it gives a nice gold look!
Nov 11, 2019, 10:57 AM
Registered User
Gluehand's Avatar

The backside phenomenon...


As I mentioned, I'm still on the "learning curve" with this technique, and I would appreciate your thoughts on this:

All 3 photos show the backside of mylar/tissue covering.
Mylar is 7.5 Ám. Tissue is Esaki Light
I have noted that a certain "wrinkled" surface appears on the mylar side. Normally a modest, evenly wrinkled surface, as seen on the first 2 photos.
The tissue side is perfectly smooth though, and all seems to be ok....without knowing, I guess this is a fairly "normal" backside surface.....

First photo = doped with an ordinary "shrinking" nitrate dope.
Second photo = doped with a "non-shrinking" nitrate dope.
Both samples are stored for some months before these photos were taken.
To me, these samples look pretty much identical.

The third photo though, shows what occasionally happens......a heavily wrinkled surface....! Ordinary nitrate dope is used.
Even in this case, this is not visible at the tissue side.....it's perfectly smooth....

Has anyone else experienced something like this.....?

Last edited by Gluehand; Nov 11, 2019 at 11:11 AM.
Nov 11, 2019, 12:48 PM
Registered User
FACINATING
My thought is that that the tissue is shrinking at a greater rate than the mylar. Which suggests that the adhesion hoped for, is not taking place. It would also suggest the smooth tissue surface is not being supported/backed-up by the substrate, totally.

So, is the amalgamation of tissue over the mylar, delivering the intended result? I don't know...I'm just asking.

It's been my experience there are low shrink dopes, sometimes called "non -tautening" types but the reality is , ALL volatile evaporative dopes contribute a measure of fabric (tissue) shrinkage.
Nov 11, 2019, 07:18 PM
Horizon Hobby Employee
Here's Esaki over Mylar film. The procedure:

1. place dry tissue on clean mylar
2. brush 50/50 Deluxe Materials Eze-Dope through from center out
3. walk away

I have limited tolerance for complex covering techniques and these results are more than adequate for me. Appearance, durability, and adjustability are all excellent.
Nov 12, 2019, 05:30 AM
Registered User
Gluehand's Avatar
A beautiful result, Craig...!

I'll have to try wetting the dope through the tissue without pre-doping the mylar.......so far I have pre-doped the mylar with alla my test frames......

Nov 12, 2019, 05:36 AM
Registered User
Gluehand's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by packardpursuit
FACINATING
So, is the amalgamation of tissue over the mylar, delivering the intended result? I don't know...I'm just asking..
I will - more bravely - try different methods of adhesion, to see what happens....
Wet or dry tissue seems to produce the same results, though.....
Dec 05, 2019, 04:41 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig Greening
Here's Esaki over Mylar film. The procedure:

1. place dry tissue on clean mylar
2. brush 50/50 Deluxe Materials Eze-Dope through from center out
3. walk away

I have limited tolerance for complex covering techniques and these results are more than adequate for me. Appearance, durability, and adjustability are all excellent.
Craig- What mylar film are you using and where can I get it?
Dec 08, 2019, 01:33 PM
Horizon Hobby Employee
Hi Jeff, I get it from FAI Model Supply (https://www.faimodelsupply.com/). The thickness depends on the application, mostly I use 1/4 and 1/3 mil. I apply the Mylar with thinned Weldwood contact cement, but there are many techniques that also work.

Craig



Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Worsham
Craig- What mylar film are you using and where can I get it?
Dec 14, 2019, 04:03 AM
Diesel Danny
danny mz's Avatar
Today I just re-covered a stab and fin for a 40 year old Free Flight model.

After covering and shrinking the Mylar (Doculam) the pre-cut (oversize by 1/4") Esaki tissue panels were laid in place and spritzed with water from an old scent sprayer. Do remember to make a few pinholes in the ribs to vent to the atmosphere as the Mylar will swell up like a balloon during heat shrinking

After about one minute the overlapping edges were gently pulled to remove wrinkles and air bubbles removed by gentle finger pressure and a small paint brush to push them to the edges of the frame until all were removed (they are easy to see}.

When the tissue was still damp a coat of nitrate dope (well thinned, about 65% thinners) was brushed on, starting at the center of the panels and working out towards the edges.

Edges were then cut/sanded and repeated for second surface.

I then doped my trim tissue colours on.

Don't worry about a white blush (caused by doping wet tissue) as the next thin coat of dope should fix that.

I can take a few pix tomorrow if anybody is interested. * Danny M *
Dec 15, 2019, 01:53 AM
BOYCOTT SCAMAZON
lectroglide's Avatar
Just used some body putty "which works great" to fill some balsa sheeting in , the putty is dark purple, so to cover it used some white iron-on heat shrink " Econokote " then tissued over the top to hide the purple putty" applied with a glue stick, worked great and cant tell the difference will post pix later
Last edited by lectroglide; Dec 15, 2019 at 04:27 PM.
Dec 15, 2019, 06:47 AM
Registered User
Danny and lectroglide- pictures would be great!
Dec 15, 2019, 04:22 PM
BOYCOTT SCAMAZON
lectroglide's Avatar
tissue over iron-on heat shrink film , wing center section...……………...tissue was applied glue stick
only reason I used this method is to hide the purple putty>>>>>>>>>IMO ez-dope is a waste of $$$ ofcourse Im an old doper from the 60s
Last edited by lectroglide; Dec 15, 2019 at 04:30 PM.
Dec 15, 2019, 07:23 PM
Diesel Danny
danny mz's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Worsham
Danny and lectroglide- pictures would be great!
Here you go Jeff

The model is Skyrocket 44, designed by an Aussie, Noel Waldren in 1947.

The late Ivor F ran a competition for this design at the 33rd Australian Nats at Goulburn in 1979, he supplied the plan so I built the model and powered it with a Mills 1.3 diesel (as per the plan) - it managed 2nd place after 3 flights.

After hanging in the workshop for 40 years the stab and fin had been damaged so I built replacements. Still have to re-cover the wing.

Decided that the old girl deserves a few more flights

The Mylar that I use is 38 micron Doculam - it has a heat activated adhesive and heat-shrinks very well.

* Danny M *
Dec 15, 2019, 09:49 PM
Diesel Danny
danny mz's Avatar
Another pic with the fin glued to the stab - the original fuselage is in the background.

I might start a new thread about re-furbishing old models using modern materials if anybody is interested

* Danny M *


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