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Dec 12, 2019, 02:29 AM
Me and a guy with a mustache
babblefish's Avatar
She's looking great. Can't wait until you get to the planking so that I can get an idea of the difficulties, if any.
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Dec 12, 2019, 09:46 AM
Big Boats Rule!
boater_dave's Avatar
Mike, what are you thinking of for the top hatch? I could see a solid block of balsa with a magnet to hold it down. Plank the top same as the deck. It would be nearly invisible. Of course, you could also make it look like a hatch or something. There is always functional storage lockers on boats.


Dave
Dec 12, 2019, 06:15 PM
Mt. Dora, Florida
mtdoramike's Avatar
Thread OP
Thanks Babble, I'm getting ready to start the planking shortly and will post pics of the progress. It will be a bit of a challenge since you are required to tapper some if not most of the planks at both ends of the boat. I usually get started by measuring the hull bottom and sides at it's widest point and then determine how many planks it will take to cover it. Then I do the same at the bow and stern so this will give me some idea of how many planks to tapper. One good thing is, this is a double planked hull, so the first (balsa) layer can be applied any which way the main goal is to get it covered. The second layer (mahogany) is the show finish, so care must be taken here to get as close and as neat a fit as possible. The least amount of filler or putty that is used here is better because once finished the filler tends to stick out like a sore thumb.

Hi Dave, I'm with you on the invisible hatch, I quite often use magnets versus latches, for ease of use. But, I'm thinking of making a former to match the shape and contour of the opening and then use some two thin layers of plywood sandwiched together with epoxy. I have used this method in the past and you could just about stand on it without it losing it's shape. But I'm far off from that yet and still thinking about. I still haven't found that negative action yet for this modification, but I'm sure it will show up sooner than later.
Dec 28, 2019, 05:40 PM
Mt. Dora, Florida
mtdoramike's Avatar
Thread OP
I have started the planking with the first layer of planking which is the balsa strips. I did what I usually do to most kits is to beef up the framing, which are 1/8" plywood. I used some scrap wood strips to beef up the edges of the frames to about 1/4" thickness, which will help the planking lay better and easier with more surface to secure it to while the glue dries.
Jan 01, 2020, 06:25 PM
Mt. Dora, Florida
mtdoramike's Avatar
Thread OP
I have the first layer of hull planking about finished with a few odds and ends to clean up. Dumas gives you a template to use to form the bow and stern area with a hard wood or hard balsa, once you attach the wood, you then have to shape it to form the nose and rear of the boat to match the contour of the hull.
Jan 08, 2020, 09:06 AM
Mt. Dora, Florida
mtdoramike's Avatar
Thread OP
I have the drive train all ready for installation when I get ready to put it in.
Jan 25, 2020, 06:26 PM
Mt. Dora, Florida
mtdoramike's Avatar
Thread OP
I finally broke down and ordered a glue accelerator when I ordered more Starbond super glue and after my first few uses with it, all I can say is, where has this stuff been all my life. All I could think of was what could have been 50 ship and boat models not to mention airplanes ago. One thing I know for certain, I will never build another model without having the accelerator on hand.
Jan 26, 2020, 01:01 AM
Registered User

Needed!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by mtdoramike
I bit the bullet and cut out the section for the rudder servo and rudder access compartment. The trick will be building a cover for the access compartment and getting it to match the curve of the top.
This boat was my first build and came out pretty dam awesome (for a first build) except that I didn’t have access to the rudder and the rudder linkage came undone AFTER finish. So can’t run it unless I cut it open. This was a learning point for me in always making sure I have adequate access to rudder linkage even if I have to modify to get there!
Jan 26, 2020, 08:35 AM
Mt. Dora, Florida
mtdoramike's Avatar
Thread OP
Thanks PD, that is exactly the reason why I decided early on that the conventional way which is access through the top versus Dumas ted way which is through the bottom was the best way to go. Even using a rubber membrane in my opinion, could be a problematic issue from the get go.
Jan 29, 2020, 03:44 PM
Mt. Dora, Florida
mtdoramike's Avatar
Thread OP
I made up the motor compartment cover as well as making a cover for the stern section which will be removable to allow access to the rudder and rudder arm from the top rather than the bottom of the boat as suggested by Dumas.
Feb 04, 2020, 01:46 PM
Mt. Dora, Florida
mtdoramike's Avatar
Thread OP
I have the cockpit skins glued down to the top of the Typhoon. But in order to get the skins to fit inside the spruce side rails, a fair amount of trimming needs to be done.
Feb 04, 2020, 01:54 PM
Mt. Dora, Florida
mtdoramike's Avatar
Thread OP
Although I'm building this boat, I don't like it. Don't get me wrong, I think quality wise it's up there with the Chris Crafts, but I just do not like the shape of this boat. If I were going to build this boat for myself to keep, I would have done some major structural changes like bobbing off the back or stern section and squaring it off in the back. But since I'm not building for me per-say, I'm building it as close to the original as I can within reason like modifying the rudder access area.
Feb 05, 2020, 09:55 AM
Big Boats Rule!
boater_dave's Avatar
Mike, the long, pointy, boat tail cruisers can be quite nice looking. Just look at Raven below. Pics taken at the antique boat show in Pewaukee, many years ago.


Dave
Feb 05, 2020, 10:01 AM
Registered User
I vote “pointy” +1
Feb 05, 2020, 10:38 AM
Big Boats Rule!
boater_dave's Avatar
Not quite the same, but close enough...


Dave


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