New Hacker 20-20L WOW! - Page 5 - RC Groups
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Mar 16, 2005, 01:06 PM
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hoverboy7's Avatar
heres the link to the specs
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Mar 16, 2005, 01:18 PM
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vintage1's Avatar
Mmm. Hacker once again shows how to get the details right and extract even more from even less. Hat's off to the Purple kings!
Mar 16, 2005, 01:40 PM
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landru's Avatar
Dr. Kiwi, have you got any of these new Hackers to test? I'm very curious to see some results.
Mar 16, 2005, 02:43 PM
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Dr Kiwi's Avatar
Originally Posted by landru
Dr. Kiwi, have you got any of these new Hackers to test? I'm very curious to see some results.
A very generous guy has offered to lend me couple - but they are not here yet.
Mar 23, 2005, 03:35 AM
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Microbatman's Avatar


Originally Posted by KillerAir
I am not comparing the motors, just stated what they are good for. Trade off. I know the kv are not the same but I also know you would be hard pressed to turn a 10x4.7 prop with an Axi 2212-20. I have flown both the 34 axi and the Hacker in the same plane and there is no comparison as far as performance, but I like slow big props for 3d which the Axi will turn on 3s but the Hacker will not. I imagine there is another Hacker wind that will though. For the same price as the Axi 2212 series I am getting the power levels of the 2808-24 Axi plus the goodies and will turn the same props at roughly the same current levels. Don't kmow about rpms cause I have no tach.
Do you have the hacker a20-20 or the a20-22?
What do you mean when you say fry battery. Permenat damange from this or just swelling and high heat?
Want to turn 11-4.7 or 12 inch slow prop I like big slow turn props
Using a 3 cell apogee 1050 and 3 cell polyquest 1450 narrow
What motor would you buy?
Mar 23, 2005, 03:56 AM
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Microbatman's Avatar

what motor

The question is
What motor would you buy?
the axi 2212-34 or the hacker a20-22?
I have a 14 oz plane
I 2 different batteries an apogee 3 cell 1050
and a 3cell polyquest 1450 narrow
Want to spin 11 4.7 prop

Any and all opinions will be appreciated.
Thanks gang.
Mar 23, 2005, 05:31 AM
axi 2212-34 works great for me on a 14 oz plane with the 11-4.7 and the smaller packs. I think the hacker is more powerful but takes more current and smaller prop than what you want.

just my thoughts,
Mar 23, 2005, 06:41 AM
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Aio_1's Avatar

Are you sure the motor is okay at 21A - 22A? As far as I know that's about max for a B20-15L for any extended period. The B20-20L must have higher resistance longer smaller section winds in order to get more winds in and reduce the KV. This should also reduce the current that you can get away with.


How will you be flying - flat out for long periods or lots of throttle management?
I think I'd tend towards Lipo cells capable of delivering at least 20A or if you really want minimum weight and don't mind pushing the cells fairly hard you could go with cells that can deliver say 15A continuous and 20A bursts (throttle management may be mandatory in this case).
Don't base your decision on C ratings or capacities. Work out the current they can deliver based on these 2 quantities and then base your decision on weight and price. I think polyquest or Irate 1800mAh cells or 2200mAh cells would be ideal but there are other alternatives from Apogee, Tanic and Thunder power as well.

Mar 23, 2005, 08:07 AM

Not sure your question is for me. I think Microbatman asked the question you answered. I was just giving him my opinion. I love both motors but find the hacker stresses my 1320 mah tp 3 cell a bit more than my axi does. The Hacker flew **crashed it ** my heavier tiburon around the sky with authority but my axi flies my lighter 14-15 oz's great with the 1320's.

Mar 23, 2005, 08:17 AM
Product Manager at Hobbico
GWRIGHT's Avatar
I've been flying the three sizes for a while now, 34S on 2 cell 760 pack in a 7 oz plane, 28M on 3 cells, 10X3.8 in a 9.5 oz foamy (yes I do fly some foam, just not in public where people can see ), and 20L in a 20 oz plane that I plan to release at SEFF. I'm really impressed. At someone else's suggestion I first flew the 12X6 "E" prop (not slowfly) on the 20L with 3S 2100. I'[m now down to an 11X5.5 "E" prop on that 20 oz plane. 21 amps and 19 amps respectively, but the packs I'm using are old and "abused", have some new ones on the way. I dropped to the 11X5.5 because the power was phenominal with the 12X6 (WAAAY more than needed)and I actually wanted to sacrifice thrust to get the throttle response even quicker . I may actually drop down to a 10X5 next because it still hovers well below 1/2 throttle, more like 1/3. I don't like the wide blade slowfly's due to the slower throttle response, but this setup may require one just to get the pitch down enough to keep the plane from going too fast. I questioned the recommendation on the 12X6 due to the current being over the published "19 amps peak", but I'm measuring temps in the 90 to 100 range on the case, indicating the windings would be around 110~130 which is rather "cold" for the motor, so maybe hacker has been extremely conservative in his numbers as has been the case with all the other hacker motors. Last sunday, after a 10+ minute flight (used about 2/3 of the 2100 pack indicating under 10 amps average current), I measured 94 degrees on the case (windings will be 20~30 degrees warmer) and the ambient temp was in the high 70's. I can see many more designs in my future for these little motors. Extremely economical and the performance is incredible. Now I need to find a gearbox that will fit the A20 and play with really large props on low wattage Rough estimates look like 3.0 ratio and a 15X10 could be interesting on a 2 lb E3D
Latest blog entry: blog
Mar 23, 2005, 08:33 AM
AMA 834319
I am currently running the Hacker A20 on my Lee Ullinger Foamtana S. Total weight of 16.65oz's RTF. I have never ran a AXI before, But this Hacker has plenty of power. I am testing right now between the APC SF 10x4.7 which is reccomended and the SF 11x3.8.

For batteries I am using either the Thunder Power 3s 1320 or my Tanic 3s 2150. Not a problem doing and 3D Manuever.

Just my 2 cents
Mar 23, 2005, 08:57 AM
Registered User
Aio_1's Avatar
Apologies! Please ignore my last post.
I somehow read the first page of the thread where Hacker 20-20L was discussed and thought it was a Hacker B20 that was under discussion not the A20 outrunners. I also managed to miss the fact that there were another 4 pages to the thread. Duh! - sometimes my brain stops working....

Mar 23, 2005, 09:24 AM

Thanks for the info. I'm going to give a few other props a try. I was able to get great flights out of the tiburon with the 1320 tp, I just had to use smart throttle stick judgements not to stress it too much. LOL.

I'm considering a trip to SEFF to check out all the products. I only live 3 hours away. Where is your table and I'll check out your new release?


Mar 23, 2005, 09:41 AM
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dick hanson's Avatar
Gary Wright -I also have the A 20 stuf - 34s / 20L and 22L.
Bro Rojecki mentioned the use of the 11x5.5 APC-and trying it on the 20L, I noted these props don't rev as smoothly as the GWS HD props-in large sizes , such as the 11/7 HD.
I slightly loosen the motor on my thrust stand to double check dynamic balance and the APC electrics really don't like this .
The GWS however, rev right up .
Ever noted this?
I am going to change try a bigger batt (TP2100/1900 ) before I settle on prop.combos and just guessing -I think amps in th lower 20's are not out of the question.
My son flys his 34S on 9x3.8 on 3 cells and there is no heat problem -tho springtemps are about 60 f now.
My thrust stand shows he is hittng 14 amps on burst but typically flopping around is more like 5-6 amps.
The 1320's I have -I will gang -to see what props really pull beston the 20L.
We need a bit more thrust here at 5300 ft.
I will be interested in seeing your new 20 ounce design - I am doing aprox same thing -just for my own amazement.
Mar 23, 2005, 09:57 AM
Product Manager at Hobbico
GWRIGHT's Avatar
I haven't tried the GWS narrow props, should do that. I designed a small plane for the S and M version A20's,.. 7 oz with the 34S and 2 cell pack and a little under 10 when going to the 28M and small 3 cell pack (wanted an indoor/outdoor profile made of wood suitable for both by just changing power systems). It has a few issues,.. have to make some changes to the tail surfaces, so it's on the back burner at the moment till i get time to work with it. It is really nice though to fly something at 7 oz with a real airfoil, 31.5 span and 310 squares (same as the extreme YAK people are flying but at a little less than half the weight )
Latest blog entry: blog

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