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Mar 13, 2005, 03:13 PM
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How would this motor do on 2s instead of 3? Anyone try? I ask because I'm considering it for my G-ride since it's the same weight as the Axi 2212s, but I won't need all the thrust produced by the 3s packs, if it gets as much as people are saying. Would it still get over 16 oz of thrust?
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Mar 13, 2005, 04:19 PM
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fbw4's Avatar
"Anyone got anything else to say about these Hacker Outrunners?? I really want one...what is the thrust like on the largest one...I think the 20-20L??"

I have 3 of the new Hacker Outrunners and the power is outstanding. A20-34S, 8x3.8, 2S-730TP Gen2 in a 7oz shockflyer. A20-26M, 10x3.8, 3S-730TP Gen2 in an 11oz ForePlay Bipe. A20-22L, 10x3.8, 3S-1320TP Gen1 in a 16oz FoamtanaS. I am only pulling around 11amps in the Foamtana but still have plenty of power to pull out of hover. The shocky and Foreplay are ballistic! I love the hardware package included with the motors. The motor is reversible and comes with 2 different mounts, 2 prop adapters, 2 spare shafts, and all the necessary screws. For the price this is hard to beat.
Mar 13, 2005, 04:26 PM
Registered User
Make sure that you put some loctite on the allen set screw that secures the back of the shaft to the rotor and crank down on it. I had it pull right out of the motor while in flight. I took my dremel and ground a small flat spot on the shaft before inserting it back.
Mar 13, 2005, 04:36 PM
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Dr Kiwi's Avatar
Originally Posted by snowball1288
They should make a stick mount adaptor for these things... it wouldnt be that hard... just a plate in the front that screws into hte motor connected to a square piece of aluminum. maybe i could make one..... this looks nice for my plane
Top Creations has a stick mount for AXI 22xx series motors which may suit these Hackers (their website is currently unavailable due to reconstruction, but I'm sure it will be up again soon).

Or the Cobri Outrunner mount:

Cheers, Phil
Last edited by Dr Kiwi; Mar 13, 2005 at 06:03 PM.
Mar 13, 2005, 04:39 PM
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Dr Kiwi's Avatar
Originally Posted by Splummer
Hello Dr. Kiwi,

You have been a great service to the hobby, Thank you!!

Regarding your quote "I've tested all the Torque series which are directly comparable to the Hacker A20 series."

I am a little confused? How are these motors directly comparable?

The Hacker A20 Motors were developed in Germany for Production in Asia.
I have just come from Asia, and I have seen about 25 different small Outrunner Designs!!!! Many are clones of existing motors, however none of these producers really understand the actual engineering only the dimensions they can copy.

Maybe, The Torque motors are simply a copy of the Original Hacker A20....

Best Regards,
Sean Plummer
Hacker Brushless USA, Inc.
#1 Brushless Motor
2000, 2002, 2004 FAI F5D World Champions
2004 FAI F3A USA National Champion
2004 FAI F3A European Champion
PM sent in an effort to explain the situation - my information may be entirely erroneous - in which case I apologize profusely.
Mar 13, 2005, 06:33 PM
Registered User
dick hanson's Avatar
More fuel for the fire in your belly --
I have four Hacker outrunners now
two, 20 34s --one 22 22l one 20 20l
The 20 34s in the new shockflyers YAK and F3A, are simply a perfect match for extreme low or high speed use.
I have pushed both on 9x3.8 props at 14 amps peak with NO heating (short pulses -lots of 4 amp slow speed .)
But I went back to 8x3.8 and 8x4 GWS HD -to allow for more aggressive stuff. Max draw is 11-12 amps
No problems but really aggressive wide open power at low speed will kick out a P10 controller
The 22 and 20 -are in 13 and 15 ounce scaled up Knuffles.
On 11x4.7 APC sf (either motor) and 1320 3 TP yellow stripe - very good setup - not really long runs but max draw is respectively 14 and 15 amps
thrust - 27 and 30 ounces respectively .
Either motor will easily pull harder .
A good friend says up to 22 amps on his 20 20 .
I tried the electric series props -both 10x5 and 11x5.5 on my 20 20 and thrust and amps DECREASED .
Also tried the 11x6 HD GWS - again not as good thrust or amps as the 1x4.7 APC SF
However - I have yet to try 2100 TP 3 cell Yellow stripe which I am certain will increase amps
For a mount I make my own for these from 5 ply aircraft ply to fit a stick mount .
Last edited by dick hanson; Mar 13, 2005 at 06:39 PM.
Mar 13, 2005, 07:23 PM
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mode1's Avatar
Dick Hanson, would be nice to see a few of your photos. Planes, motors, your 5ply stick mount.
Mar 13, 2005, 07:42 PM
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T_Hartigan's Avatar
I just installed an A20-20L in a soon to be complete ESTAR Decathlon. I ordered it through Stevens Aeromodel along with his laser cut motor mount to mount it on a stick. I was impressed with the power. Apogge 1570 3s1 with APC 10x4.7. It pulled 14-15 amps. It seemed to be huge power and very quiet. My first outrunner.

It seemed to have more thrust than a Razor 300 with D gearbox with same prop, and much more silent. Further testing is required though

Also recommend cranking down on the setscrew holding the shaft inplace. First time I revved it up the prop and shaft went flying.

Mar 13, 2005, 08:03 PM
I tell ya, this motor is fun! I flew it today just before sundown with my tp1320 3cell. I flew about 14 minutes and took it easy on the battery. It struggles at full throttle. I ordered a 1600 falcon batteries 3 cell and I hear from friends that it should be a perfect little battery for this plane. I love the ability to do anti-torque rolls! What fun.

Mar 13, 2005, 08:21 PM
Registered User
dick hanson's Avatar
some pics of Hackers
Mar 13, 2005, 09:02 PM

Did you say you were running the 20-20L with an apc 11-4.7 sf and getting less current draw than the 10-4.7? I don't have a way to measure current but I would like to be able to fly this thing on my tp 1320's.

Mar 13, 2005, 11:12 PM
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fbw4's Avatar
"I don't have a way to measure current but I would like to be able to fly this thing on my tp 1320's"

The TP Gen2 packs are good for 10C constant and 20C bursts. The 1320 is the recommended battery for these A20L motors because in most cases it takes less then 13amps to hover so you only need full throttle for the pull out. I don't have any 1320Gen2's but I have pushed the 730's and 480's well past 10C. If you want to play it safe start with a 10x3.8 prop and check battery temperature after your flight. Then work your way up in prop size until you are satisfied with the performance.
Mar 13, 2005, 11:19 PM
Registered User
mode1's Avatar
Thanks for the photos Dick Hanson.
Mar 13, 2005, 11:21 PM
With an apc 10-4.7 sf the pack gets warm. Not hot to the touch but warmer than when I fly it on other motors. I wonder how it would fly on the 11-4.7. Dick, do you have any more info you can share?

Mar 14, 2005, 12:20 AM
Registered User
dick hanson's Avatar
Some confusion here ---
If you use a thrust stand and a wattmeter - you will quickly see how this all works in real world use.
to hover 12 ounces typically takes 4-5 amps at 10 volts
so call that "half throttle" (which is about right).
Once the plane is in motion - -still at half throttle position --speed builds and we reduce throttle position and much flying is occuring at 3 amps .
So when do we hit full throttle ?
The answer is very seldom and then only for a second or two .
these planes are small and they quickly get out of the desired window for best flight recognition.
An exception is windy weather - 5 mph wind makes a huge change in power consumed -simply used to hold positions
So much more power is used simply to stay put .
IF--you use a model which weighs 20 ounces -then power consumption goes waaaaaaay up for any and all flying
If it takes 13 amps to hover -I would bet you have a model which weighs this much.
Toward the last minutes of a packs power - throttle stick position increses to get same performance as found on full pack but by this time the effective voltage is way down .
If you do not have a thrust stand and you have more than a couple of motors - make one -they cost pennies to make and the info fed back clears up a lot of misconceptions.
add a Wattmeter and you get all the info -- instantly.
If you are a school student - share the cost with a few buddies -you will spend a total of $75.00 likely much less.
And please make a setup that does not leave you looking at the front or edge of a spinning prop!
Last edited by dick hanson; Mar 14, 2005 at 12:29 AM.

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