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Oct 18, 2019, 05:17 AM
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Thread OP
Question

Turnigy G46 not happy


Hi there.
I am new to this hobby and building a Sig 40 4 star and bought the following.
Turnigy G46, Turnigy 60A ESC, and a AR636 reciever.
The motor does not want to turn properly gives a few jerks and that's it to the 5s battry.
When i connect my eflite 1.5 to everything but with a 3s battery it works well.
Could it be the new G46 motor or maybe to thin cable extensions?
Any Ideas of someone that had similar problems.
Help would be appreciated- thanks
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Oct 22, 2019, 08:01 AM
Registered User
Could simply just be the timing that needs adjustment.
Oct 22, 2019, 05:54 PM
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scirocco's Avatar
You've likely got a bad solder joint on one of your motor or ESC bullet connectors. Less likely but possible is a broken wire in the motor windings.

Cable extensions?? If from motor to ESC, no problem but an opportunity for six more bad solder joints.

What's an Eflite 1. 5? If it's a motor and it has no problem with the Plush 60, then I'd suspect one of the bullet joints on the G46.

If you can try another ESC from a working combination on the G46 and the problem persists, then I'd suggest first checking that the resistance between motor leads is the same, and looking to carefully re-solder the motor bullets
Oct 23, 2019, 07:59 AM
homo ludens modellisticus
Ron van Sommeren's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by RONST3R
... Could it be the new G46 motor or maybe to thin cable extensions? ...
Not unless they are veryvery thin.
However, thin cables would cause a different effect, severe voltage and power losses. To keep those losses the same, increase wire cross-section area with same factor as increase in wire length.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RONST3R
... The motor does not want to turn properly gives a few jerks ...
Is the battery okay and fully charged? What is the battery voltage and sag while (trying to) power up?
Other possbile causes and solutions
Motor stuttering? Won't run? Read before asking. - RCG

Quote:
Originally Posted by RONST3R
... I am new to this hobby ...
Some well-structured reading for rainy/windy days, including two e-books, and some handy e-tools as well. Will save you, and us a lot of questions, and probably a crash or two. Notably the 'what went wrong?' kind of questions Will also prevent you from burning up several controllers and/or motors and/or battery:
E-flight primer and tools - RCG

And pleasepleaseplease, do your RC equipment, wallet, ego, battery, controller, motor, house/garage/car a big favour ... get a watt-meter. It will more than pay for itself, will save you at least one fried motor and one fried controller. Will also help you finding the best setup.
Keep battery-/-watt-/multi-meter wires short!
too long wires batteryside will kill ESC over time: precautions, solutions & workarounds - RCG


Vriendelijke groeten Ron
• Without a watt-meter you are in the dark ... until something starts to glow, or blow •
e-flight calculatorswatt-metershigh power motor tips&tricksCumulus MFC
Last edited by Ron van Sommeren; Oct 28, 2019 at 08:07 AM.
Oct 28, 2019, 03:28 AM
Ldm
Ldm
Ldm
Ldm's Avatar
The G46 as well as the G60 have proven for me to be extremely reliable.
As stated above check your sodered joints.
If making connections is a problem buy the proper tools, the best soldering tool for the money will make this task as easy as painting by numbers.
Also, check you magnets in the motor. I have found even on the eflight brand you can get a loose magnet.
If the motor is not installed in the plane ( shake it ) with the prop nut and spacer removed, you should not hear any clicks or loose parts .
Pick up the steel cleaning mess, a good iron ( if you dont have these tools ) .
Oct 28, 2019, 03:37 AM
Entropy is happening!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar

A little diversionary trivia!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ldm
The G46 as well as the G60 have proven for me to be extremely reliable............
I have a G46. Very reliable too. The Turnigy motors appear to be mostly good, but some have bearing problems. If yours has poor bearing, it may be poling (spelling?).
I had to replace the bearings in a new larger Turnigy motor.

Quote:
As stated above check your sodered joints.......
Interesting spelling (mistake?). That is how it is pronounced in North America, from what I have heard. Silent "l".

While:
Quote:
.............soldering .............. .
Is the way we common old English derived Aussie speaking types pronounce it. Pronounced "l".

Jim.
Oct 28, 2019, 04:42 AM
Ldm
Ldm
Ldm
Ldm's Avatar
Thanks Jim , but solve the guys problem and I will work on my spelling
Oct 28, 2019, 08:18 AM
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Turnigy g46 not happy


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And why does the g46 get "power system" status when it is simply a motor no different than the others posted in the motor construction and repair forum. Even though it is reported here, as reliable in the middle of its problem thread, it certainly comes up in rewind and repair topics enough . I'm sorry but I think its all low quality compared to what we produce here and in other nations that specialize in quality. If you have bearing issues out the box how is that quality. "alls you have to do is replace them.. " well that raises the price so why not buy right from the jump. The top dogs never have these issues. Bearings?? The motors are what they are.... ,candidates needing a major overhaul. They lack copper fill, use marginal bearings, wild bundle in hand winding,etc.

If the motor is stuttering dont rule out the pwm settings.
Last edited by H-1 (1boho); Oct 30, 2019 at 08:03 AM.
Oct 30, 2019, 08:54 AM
Registered User
I had a model with a Firepower motor. When I applied throttle, the prop would kick back and forth a couple of times and then start running. I read that this could be caused by an incorrect timing setting in the ESC so I went in and reprogrammed it for a lower timing setting and the problem disappeared. You might check out the setting in your ESC and just try a lower setting. It's the easiest thing to do and if that doesn't fix the problem, there are all of the other things mentioned above that you can check as well.
Nov 07, 2019, 10:54 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Warthog_Fan
I had a model with a Firepower motor. When I applied throttle, the prop would kick back and forth a couple of times and then start running. I read that this could be caused by an incorrect timing setting in the ESC so I went in and reprogrammed it for a lower timing setting and the problem disappeared. You might check out the setting in your ESC and just try a lower setting. It's the easiest thing to do and if that doesn't fix the problem, there are all of the other things mentioned above that you can check as well.
Thanks mate That sounds like something else I could try.
Cheers will advise
Nov 08, 2019, 11:08 AM
homo ludens modellisticus
Ron van Sommeren's Avatar
If it works it works of course, but that is not what timing ('pre-ignition') is for. Timing is used at high e-rpm, to give enough time for magnetic field to build up, and break down again. It effects current and rpm at full throttle.

A little prop wiggle/dance at startup is normal. A brushless controller does a lot of switching. It needs info from motor to figure out rotorposition and -speed for correct switching timing . However, it can only get that info when the motor is running, thus generating a detectable signal. Deadlock. All it can do at startup is muck about a bit so at least the rotor is moving.

I once read that 90% of the software in an ESC is dedicated to starting up. Some controllers are better at it than others.

Prettig weekend Ron
• Without a watt-meter you are in the dark ... until something starts to glow, or blow •
e-flight calculatorswatt-metershigh power motor tips&tricksCumulus MFC
Last edited by Ron van Sommeren; Nov 09, 2019 at 11:10 AM.
Nov 08, 2019, 10:10 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
Thanks for the help everyone.
My Motor wire extentions were to long!
I added 6 inches of wires and that seems to be the problem.
I soldered the bullet connectors on to the motor wires and all works like advertised.
Nov 09, 2019, 03:12 AM
Registered User
scirocco's Avatar
More likely there was a problem with the soldering on one of the extensions. A 6 inch motor lead extension is trivial
Nov 09, 2019, 05:04 AM
Entropy is happening!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by scirocco
more likely there was a problem with the soldering on one of the extensions. A 6 inch motor lead extension is trivial
+1!
Nov 09, 2019, 09:58 AM
homo ludens modellisticus
Ron van Sommeren's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by RONST3R
... My motor wire extensions were too long! ...
I have my doubts about wire extensions being the cause of the stuttering. 15cm/6inch is not much, and there's already a lot of (winding) wire length in the motorcoils.
Nevertheless, short(er) is always better, less resistance losses, and less inductance.

edit: Australia beat me to it.

Prettig weekend Ron
• Without a watt-meter you are in the dark ... until something starts to glow, or blow •
e-flight calculatorswatt-metershigh power motor tips&tricksCumulus MFC
Last edited by Ron van Sommeren; Nov 13, 2019 at 11:13 AM. Reason: + 6inch


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