My First Crawler, Axial 1/10 SCX10 II

We have helped spread the RC crawler addiction to RCGroups user nhk750! Here is his post on getting going in the RC rock crawler world!!

Splash

FPV Rock Crawler

I got inspired by Jim T and Jason Cole and decided to try a crawler. My back yard is 1/4 acre and a big hill, so perfect for rock crawling and messing around. I'm also going to slap some fpv gear on it. After much research, I decided to build my own rig from the Axial 1/10 SCX10 II builders kit as it has a 15% discount this week and I already have a Spektrum surface transmitter with telemetry and 20 model memory (Spektrum DX5C SMART 5CH DSMR Transmitter with 6100 SPM5120) used for my boats. It is really hard to find any rc vehicles that are not RTR, crazy, I don't need any more radios! I'm getting the Axial jeep body and then will accumulate parts along the way. I'm new to this side of the hobby, but can anyone point me in the direction of other SC10 II users build threads or advice on parts? Thanks, I will also search around here some more but haven't found much so far.

Last edited by Jim T. Graham; Nov 05, 2019 at 08:40 AM..
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Oct 21, 2019, 08:08 PM
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I'm looking at this motor and ESC combo.
Castle Creations Mamba X 25.2V WP ESC 1406-2850Kv Sensored Combo, CSE010015510
It's Castle Creations motor and ESC, so from what I can find this is good quality stuff? At least for airplanes it works great...
Oct 25, 2019, 12:35 PM
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Just picked up these INJORA 1.9 Beadlock Wheels Rims on Amazon and they went together easily plus look great along with some Goodyear MT/R tires. I have too many hobbies now, but this crawler hobby is pretty cool, like building a miniature truck, plus an easy distraction from building airplanes and boats...It will be fun to play cars with my nephew when I get it done too.
Oct 29, 2019, 11:30 AM
ChrisG does 3D!
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I just ordered one of these myself. Looking forward to the build.

I went with a very basic brushed motor setup.

I know if you are going brushless you need to use a "sensored" setup to have smooth motor engagement.
Oct 29, 2019, 11:54 AM
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I have the sensored Castle brushless setup and so far the build is going good. I have noticed one thing though, don't tighten the screws to much into the plastic parts (the directions actually mention this in several spots) as it will cause the plastic to distort and cause binding. I assembled the axles and over-tightened the diff covers and this caused the axles ring and pinion gears to bind, so I backed the screws off a bit and everything is fine now. Plus, with the screws being self tapping, they wont come loose not being tightened too much. Here's a couple of pics, as you can see, I am out of control right now with building airplanes on one table and car on another and soon will be building a boat too...
Last edited by nhk750; Oct 29, 2019 at 12:12 PM.
Oct 30, 2019, 09:17 AM
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It's getting there, need to start painting the body now to match our Jeep Wrangler.
Last edited by nhk750; Oct 30, 2019 at 09:22 AM.
Nov 03, 2019, 12:06 PM
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Nice brushless setup! I was tempted by it but it just wasn't in the budget.

I finished mine, it's all bargain bin stuff, but it turned out pretty cool!

I just used Rust-Oleum green I had on the shelf to paint the body.
Nov 03, 2019, 07:39 PM
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I mounted a Hitec D956WP 32-Bit High Torque Waterproof Steel Gear Servo, HRC36956 and the servo arm screw will rubb on the draglink plastic mounting arm when the suspension is compressed. I took a dremel and removed a little bit of plastic from the arm end and it helped a bit. I also added the servo rubber mounts to raise the servo and that helped too. I was wondering if putting on an angled end would be the solution or would that mess up the geometry of the front end? See pics.

Other wise I think I will mount the electronics like I have in the picture.
Last edited by nhk750; Nov 03, 2019 at 08:21 PM.
Nov 04, 2019, 05:26 PM
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You could try it. I used the included servo a and found I had clearance issues as well. I solved it by mounting the servo wire guide loops under the servo to life the servo a couple mm's. The loops hit the frame and bend a little but I think that's fine.

I hit the trail for my first bit of live-action today. It was a blast!
Nov 05, 2019, 10:18 AM
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Chassis finished


I finished the chassis last night, got all the electronics mounted (I used double sided tape to mount ESC and radio), wires secured, battery fitted snugly, and XT90 battery connector soldered onto the ESC leads. I also installed voltage telemetry wires into the ESC battery leads by soldering and then heat shrinking them close to the ESC. We will see how that works with the new Spektrum radio system. Since it was my first time installing electronics in a crawler, I performed installation like I would in an rc airplane, everything tied down and clear of moving parts. This wont be an underwater rig, but I will waterproof connections the best I can per instructions by applying dielectric gel to the outside of ESC and motor connections. I think Castle wants the dielectric gel on the outside of sensor connections so it wont interfere with low voltage signals that the sensored motor and esc require to operate properly. Anyway it looks good and I will be binding radio, calibrating the throttle and setting up the Castle ESC with Castle link tonight. Then maybe a test drive around the house...

Next up is body and paint work.
Nov 05, 2019, 10:47 AM
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Nice! 3s brushless ought to be enough power.
Have fun with the paint work.
Nov 07, 2019, 01:24 PM
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Got it running last night and dialed in the Castle ESC and Spektrum radio with AVC. Runs great around the house and crawls very slow with nice torque. I climbed over some stuff and really got it up on some good angles and the steering is working great so far. Time to get the body done and get it outside. I'm really liking the Castle sensored brushless setup, really smooth! The voltage telemetry on the Spektrum is very nice. I like seeing my battery voltage and BEC voltage on the transmitter.
Nov 07, 2019, 09:31 PM
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Wow, the body fits perfectly! Iím used to building airplanes where nothings fits right the first time. Anyway I used a Protek rc lexan body reamer to make the post holes and it worked awesome. The right tool always makes the job easier.
Today, 12:24 AM
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Finished making holes for trim parts in the body, cleaned the inside of body with warm dish-soapy water and rinsed, masked off the windows inside with provided masks, wiped the inside of the body with denatured alcohol then tack raged it, warmed up the Duratrax polycarbonate black paint in a bowl of warm water, and shot the inside of the body making 4 coats and waiting for around 5-10 min between coats. Then brought the body inside to dry for around 30 min and removed all the masks and the outside plastic overspray mask.

It came out great and now I need to mask off the outside around the top in order to paint a few coats of Tamiya flat clear on the top to help it resemble the flat black tops found on the Jeeps. It's an easy way to flat the shine on a Lexan body and it also holds up pretty good as when it scratches and rubs off it isn't very noticeable.

I will be changing the front bumper to a more beefy bumper tomorrow.
Last edited by nhk750; Today at 10:05 AM.


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