Thread Tools
Mar 18, 2021, 08:47 PM
Registered User

some questions


bought this boat for my son (pro version) and we ran it for the first time last week.....wow.....surprised how fast and smooth it sounded!!! couple of questions though:

1. Shouldnt there be a nylon thrust washer between the brass drive dog (i think thats the name of it) and the part it pushes against?
2. with the way its set up.....isnt the thrust being transferred (at least partially) through the motor? I say this because the coupler up by the motor is locked to both the motor and to the drive shaft (neither end is floating).

Finally, should i have a gap between the drive dog and the part it thrusts against? Or should there be no space. I would think no space because if there was a space more thrust will be transfererd through the motor.

I actually have a gas boat as well.....but the flex shaft on my gas boat floats at the coupling near the engine......and there is a nylon thrust washer down by the prop between the drive dog and the part it thrusts against........
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Mar 18, 2021, 11:50 PM
Registered User
dperez's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by MADRCER
Thanks! You need a 4mm to 3/16 prop shaft adapter sleeve \tube and then it's a direct fit for this boat. The Pro Version this prop won't work on it because it has a 5mm prop shaft. Contact Chris Hoffmann at [email protected] and tell him you want the prop for the Vector SR80. You can get the adapter from offshoreelectrics.com https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...prod=ose-83400
Thanks Madrcer! Appreciate all the info. Canít wait to hop this baby up!
Mar 19, 2021, 02:16 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by androidx1
bought this boat for my son (pro version) and we ran it for the first time last week.....wow.....surprised how fast and smooth it sounded!!! couple of questions though:

1. Shouldnt there be a nylon thrust washer between the brass drive dog (i think thats the name of it) and the part it pushes against?
2. with the way its set up.....isnt the thrust being transferred (at least partially) through the motor? I say this because the coupler up by the motor is locked to both the motor and to the drive shaft (neither end is floating).

Finally, should i have a gap between the drive dog and the part it thrusts against? Or should there be no space. I would think no space because if there was a space more thrust will be transfererd through the motor.

I actually have a gas boat as well.....but the flex shaft on my gas boat floats at the coupling near the engine......and there is a nylon thrust washer down by the prop between the drive dog and the part it thrusts against........
My boat had a nylon thrust washer just ahead of the drive dog but it didn't last very long. I just leave a 1/16" - 1/8" space there now. Yes it dies transfer to the motor but I don't want it to wear out the drive shaft support. Make sure you grease the drive shaft before every use I can't stress that enough. I had a friend melt the outer shaft right out of the hull of his boat and seized and snapped off the flex shaft. In my other post I want to clarify that the 70+ kph speeds are on 6s batteries and I had to replace the ESC before I hit them. But the hull split on 4s I hope Noone else has that problem.
Mar 19, 2021, 01:53 PM
Registered User
Thanks for the reply!!!!! Interesting....they must have decided to stop shipping with the nylon thrust washer due to exactly what you are experiencing........
I would initially say that having the thrust transfer to the motor is a design flaw, but maybe with these little motors the thrust is no real difference compared to say the thrust if it was in an airplane.........
Regarding grease....Yep, it was the first thing i did before running. Probably a good idea for everyone to remove the flex shaft after every use as well.......should make it last longer.......

regarding batteries.....Im using a 4S 5000mah 30 or 40C pack that i had laying around for a plane.........
Mar 19, 2021, 01:56 PM
Registered User
based on the pic of that crack......im guessing a little bit of fiberglass laid on the inside of the hull would be a big help.....but im too lazy to do that on a boat that cost only 160 bucks
Mar 20, 2021, 05:36 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by androidx1
based on the pic of that crack......im guessing a little bit of fiberglass laid on the inside of the hull would be a big help.....but im too lazy to do that on a boat that cost only 160 bucks
Just put some masking tape on the outside over the crack then mix some 5 minute epoxy and spread it on the inside. Worked well for a similar crack I had in a hull. I spread a little on both sides of the hull to balance and add strength. No fiberglass cloth needed.
May 22, 2021, 11:08 PM
Registered User
Does anyone have the issue of the grease coming out from the back of the thrust bearing in the strut and the teflon tube area? I take the flex shaft out and marine grease the shaft and tube/strut but after every run , when i remove my shaft there's little to no grease left in there... Im not sure if this is normal or if im missing a seal or something? Ive even tried glueing the bearing into the strut with loctite and ive put teflon tape around my teflon liner to make it fit more snug to prevent leaks but regardess grease comes out the back even if i give 1/4 throttle. Maybe my grease is no good?

Im running on 4s, with a 43mm prop and using futaba 3pv radio, Carbon turnfins , 150a flycolor esc w capbanks are on the way with 2x octura steamline waterpickups that are originally made for thru hull use but i think im going to pierce my trim tabs and install them in there (one on each) for my esc and motor using 1/4 tubing. Ill post pics when everything is installed!
Last edited by xPavelack; May 22, 2021 at 11:28 PM.
May 23, 2021, 09:45 AM
Fast electric boats maybe
Jeffro Bodine's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by xPavelack
Does anyone have the issue of the grease coming out from the back of the thrust bearing in the strut and the teflon tube area? I take the flex shaft out and marine grease the shaft and tube/strut but after every run , when i remove my shaft there's little to no grease left in there... Im not sure if this is normal or if im missing a seal or something? Ive even tried glueing the bearing into the strut with loctite and ive put teflon tape around my teflon liner to make it fit more snug to prevent leaks but regardess grease comes out the back even if i give 1/4 throttle. Maybe my grease is no good?

Im running on 4s, with a 43mm prop and using futaba 3pv radio, Carbon turnfins , 150a flycolor esc w capbanks are on the way with 2x octura steamline waterpickups that are originally made for thru hull use but i think im going to pierce my trim tabs and install them in there (one on each) for my esc and motor using 1/4 tubing. Ill post pics when everything is installed!
Little to no grease after a run is normal ,the spiral wound flex cable acts like screw threads when it spins and forces the grease towards the strut and past the bearings so all of this is normal and it's good practice to grease after every run as you mentioned.
Jun 20, 2021, 10:48 AM
Registered User
I'm running this in 6s but should I upgrade the motor? Know any motor that fits the mount?
Jul 11, 2021, 05:16 PM
Registered User
Had my SR80 Pro for a few months now, seems like a decent boat for the money .I run it on 4S 5000's, hoping to grab a 5S to have a go at some point. Took it out on the sea this week, loved it.

Volantex Vector SR80 Pro out at sea, alongside a speed boat #volantex #vector #sr80 #sr80pro #sea (0 min 49 sec)


Motor and ESC are still stock, but have replaced the flex shaft with .150 Octura and 3/16" stub. The original balls bearings gave out, I have replaced them with bushes, much better. Currently run a 42mm Graupner Carbon prop, need to do some testing with a 45mm.
Sep 21, 2021, 03:50 PM
Registered User
is it worth spraying inside of the hull with something like Bed Armor ?

https://www.duplicolor.com/product/b...k-bed-coating/

to strengthen the hull ? I just got the SR80 (non PRO) and the hull is super flimsy.

I am new to boats, any watch outs with this model ?

and what upgrades are recommended ? I like tinkering and upgrading so happy to put better ESC and Motor 4S combo ...

also I got a 6000mah 4s battery, its quite heavy, will it impact the stability of the boat tied to side of the hull?

thanks
Oct 15, 2021, 10:34 PM
Registered User
anyone know how to calibrate the stock ESC so I can use another radio setup ?
Oct 16, 2021, 08:35 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by omarko
anyone know how to calibrate the stock ESC so I can use another radio setup ?
The name of the ESC is: Volantexrc Brushless 60A ESC PE1264 2-4S Water Cooling Double XT60
I also searched the manual for this ESC on the internet but I couldn't find it.
It would be nice to know if the manual exists, post the link here.
Oct 19, 2021, 10:59 AM
Registered User
Thread OP

Vector SR80 hits 53km stock w/octura x440 prop


Vector SR80 hits 53km stock w/octura x440 prop

Vector SR80 hits 53km stock w/octura x440 prop (1 min 58 sec)
Oct 19, 2021, 11:00 AM
Registered User
Thread OP

Vector SR80 hits 71km stock w/octura x440 prop


Vector SR80 hits 71km stock w/octura x440 prop

Vector SR80 hits 71km stock w/octura x440 prop (1 min 31 sec)


Quick Reply
Message:

Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Discussion Volantex Vector PRO 798-2 800mm self-righting boat AirDOGGe Racing Boats - Electric 535 Oct 21, 2020 05:59 PM
Discussion Volantex Vector PRO 798-2 (running 4S at 57MPH) MarcosAC Racing Boats - Electric 26 Oct 14, 2019 04:08 PM
Discussion Volantex Vector PRO 798-2 (+ Up USD 59.89) = 50 MPH MarcosAC Racing Boats - Electric 0 Apr 21, 2019 10:31 AM
Discussion Volantex Vector Pro Scaleman3 Racing Boats - Electric 3 Aug 20, 2018 05:44 PM