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Oct 13, 2019, 11:09 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
Discussion

Tronxy xy-3


Just finished the printer assembly.
http://www.tronxy.com/web/index.php?...anstr=en&wap=1

Anybody else here using this printer?
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Oct 13, 2019, 03:06 PM
Registered User
Aside from the controller and bed surface, you essentially have a Creality CR-10. The printing area is a little smaller than a CR-10S on the X and Y axis and considerably less on the Z. axis.

Insofar as setup and use, you can use CR-10 recommendations. Not sure about that magnetic bed surface, as I haven't used one.

The firmware on the controller is probably some sort of a Marlin firmware derivative. Most are.

Have fun with your printer!
Nov 08, 2019, 05:23 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
Brief update and some questions:
The printer is up and running. Most of the rollers needed adjustment, which were too tight. Installed the AutoLevel sensor and Firmware without any major difficulties.

Downloaded one of the free print files (lcd case) for testing purposes.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3255968
This is actually one of my suspects.

1st Print I used the Tronxy Slicer at Default Settings which produced not so great results. However better than I had anticipated (picture attached) - PLA, 0.2mm layer & temp at 215C

2nd Print I just reduced the temperature to 205C then 200C. Read up about my symptoms and lowered the temperature. I aborted the 205 Print because of numerous reason (1st layer attachment, etc.) but the print was “less messy”. I lowered to 200C which I aborted as well since 1st layer attachment symptoms were slightly worse.
Found that the first layer was set at 0.3mm and changed that to 0.18mm (found online reference for that).
The print started out much better and I decided to finish the print. The final result for the second print was substantially better.

1st Question: The Aborted Print picture shows the bezel part. The center part of the bezel fill always builds faster (thicker). After about a couple of layers it is easy to hear the nozzle moving over the center section (grind).
What would cause that? I have not been able to find an explanation!

Note: The strange part is that later in the print things even out. However, that can’t be correct, I can see how the nozzle is being pushed up during early layers!

2nd Question: The stringing in the picture occurs when the printhead moves across the empty space. This only occurs few times, the rest of the time the head moves as expected, along the walls.
Could this be a bad .stl file?

The incorrect nozzle path is also where you can see the uneven wall thickness.

I would appreciate any thoughts / recommendations in reference to my question.
Any other comments are welcome as well.
Nov 10, 2019, 05:51 AM
Registered User
I'd look on the spool and see the recommended nozzle and bed temperature range , start with a mid point for nozzle temp and print a test cube , them 5į lower and 5į higher or try one of the temperature tower test models on Thingiverse , it looks like it might be a temperature problem .
Nov 11, 2019, 10:20 AM
The Junk Man
1st Question: Sounds like your auto leveling software is screwing that up.
2nd Question: That is a function of your slicer, not your printer.

Tom

PS: Check your flow rate. (Extrusion multiplier) Have you done an E-Step calibration?
Nov 11, 2019, 06:03 PM
Registered User
As to the stringing, you might want to read about retraction as well.

To be honest, for first prints, those aren't bad at all. I've seen worse.

It takes a lot of tinkering with 3D printers to get a config and settings that work. It can be frustrating. There is plenty online available to read regarding problems.
Nov 11, 2019, 08:13 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
First of all thanks for all the info and comments.
My extrusion multiplier is set at 100% and I didnít yet perform a E-Set calibration.


I have been working with printer and reading through plenty of help information.
Tuning some of the settings (one at a time ) have improved the prints and my basic understanding. Attached are some pictures of my recent prints - the Lcd case, Benchy and a side servo mount.

Overall the printed parts turned out pretty well BUT - my issue of Banding / Ripples is giving me a major headache. I checked for miss alignments and loose parts ( found a loose Z-Guide). While fixing the loose Z-Guide has help the overall print quality a little, it didnít help with my main problem.

I have been looking for information and reading up on information specific to my issue. Unfortunately what I found either didnít apply to me or didnít help.

What am I missing or overlooking?
Nov 12, 2019, 03:00 AM
Registered User
If the ripples match exactly then its probbably a problem with the Z axis lead screw , try taking the lead screw out and flipping it top to bottom , while its out move the Z axis by hand to check its free running and not binding , run a test print after flipping the lead screw and look for banding again .
The other thing it might be is missed Z axis steps , it basically prints two layers of plastic without moving up , this causes the grinding of the top layer , usually a binding issue so again look to see everything is free , you should be able to move the Z axis up and down by hand with a gentle push .
Nov 14, 2019, 10:34 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by dadio
If the ripples match exactly then its probbably a problem with the Z axis lead screw , try taking the lead screw out and flipping it top to bottom , while its out move the Z axis by hand to check its free running and not binding , run a test print after flipping the lead screw and look for banding again .
The other thing it might be is missed Z axis steps , it basically prints two layers of plastic without moving up , this causes the grinding of the top layer , usually a binding issue so again look to see everything is free , you should be able to move the Z axis up and down by hand with a gentle push .
Success, the ripples are gone!
It took me a while to figure it out, it was a little tricky.

Based on your comment to check again for loose parts I made the decision to go back to basics. I found some minor issues for X and Y, just some fine tuning. As you pointed out, everything was pointing to a problem with the Z-Axis.

So I decided to reduce the extruder temperature. My theory was that it should make it more obvious whether the layers in the areas of banding / ripples are getting “squeezed”. Lower temperature would cause less material and eventually the individual layer thickness will show it. That theory worked out and it became obvious that the problem was indeed layers being “squeezed”.

I removed the Z-Axis lead screw as you recommended. The Z-Axis was binding badly in numerous locations. Not something I was able to tell with the lead screw installed. My first guess was that I had adjusted one of the pulley wheels incorrectly. That was not the case and not until I started to remove all the pulley wheels did I finally detect the issue. The fixed pulleys were installed with the screws way too tight. The screws pushed so hard on the center/bearing of the pulleys that they could no longer turn freely. I checked and changed all the mounting and that was it.

While it is nice that the printer is mostly pre-assembled, it obviously is also a disadvantage if done incorrectly and can cost plenty of time.

Thanks for the information/help and pointing me in the right direction. Now I can focus on the fine tuning and having more fun. In any case it was a great learning experience.
Last edited by yrag; Nov 15, 2019 at 12:32 AM.
Nov 15, 2019, 02:30 AM
Registered User
Glad I could help , its kind of unfair having to trouble shoot a new machine , its hard enough to get started anyway with so much new stuff to learn without a manufacturing issue , the new prints look nice and a big improvement , well done .


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