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Sep 18, 2019, 02:34 PM
Electric
Thread OP
Discussion

Castle ESC soldering & Repair


I bought a crashed Castle 160HV Lite ESC I'm attempting to repair that looks pretty good. Just a couple smooshed capacitors and ripped off servo lead. But I'm having a problem with getting the solder to melt.

I have a Hakko FX-888 soldering station that gets up to 900F, and using 3% silver rosin core solder didn't work worth a hill of beans!

So I ordered some flux paste, tip tinner, a set of new tips that include some nice fat/heavier tips. Problem is I'm not sure what solder mix to use..... Some new capacitors.

I'm assuming Castle uses lead-free solder. Anyone know what they use and what temperature range I should be aiming for?
Last edited by DeadstickDuck; Sep 18, 2019 at 11:50 PM.
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Sep 18, 2019, 02:41 PM
Electric
Thread OP
Haha I hope their motor is still good but looking at the fact they snipped their motor leads and gave them to me with the ESC I sure hope they can solder their motor leads again and they aren't fully coated. They didn't bother keeping the 3 ESC leads the same length......
Last edited by DeadstickDuck; Sep 18, 2019 at 11:56 PM.
Sep 18, 2019, 07:52 PM
homo ludens modellisticus
Ron van Sommeren's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeadstickDuck
... They didn't bother keeping the 3 motor leads the same length. ...
No worries, there's already a lot of (winding)wire length inside the motor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeadstickDuck
... Just a couple smooshed capacitors ...
... Some new capacitors ...
The capacitors in your pictures look very iffy, if not damaged, I would bin them if I were you.
Make sure you use the low ESR types,, otherwise they will get (too) hot.
Low ESR usually is a selection option on electronics sites.

Virendelijke groeten Ron
• Without a watt-meter you are in the dark ... until something starts to glow •
e-flight calculatorswatt-metersdiy motor tips&tricksCumulus MFC
Last edited by Ron van Sommeren; Sep 18, 2019 at 08:16 PM.
Sep 19, 2019, 04:00 AM
jofro
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeadstickDuck
Haha I hope their motor is still good but looking at the fact they snipped their motor leads and gave them to me with the ESC I sure hope they can solder their motor leads again and they aren't fully coated. They didn't bother keeping the 3 ESC leads the same length......
Mate, that's bit of a mess you got there, replacing the caps and and power leads is the easy part with the decent size iron for the leads but you need delicate one for the caps. I have been upgrading caps on lot of my speedos over the years using very small pointy iron I can heat up to 485 deg. cel.
I used to have trouble getting the right soldering flux, but after visiting plumbing supply shop, got the one doing the great job.
Hope your circuit board if in right shape with no damage to the mosfets, it looks bit suss.
Buying damaged ESC is not such a great idea, good luck.
Sep 19, 2019, 06:56 AM
Registered User
Use 60/40 or 50/50 tin/lead rosin core solder.

Saying where you can stick the lead-free stuff would be a pointworthy offence in this forum...
Sep 19, 2019, 09:24 AM
homo ludens modellisticus
Ron van Sommeren's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron van Sommeren
... Low ESR usually is a selection option on electronics sites. ...
E.g.
www.rs-components.com
www.farnell.com
www.digikey.com
www.mouser.com
www.conrad.eu
www.elv.de
www.reichelt.de

Vriendelijke groeten Ron
• Without a watt-meter you are in the dark ... until something starts to glow •
e-flight calculatorswatt-metersdiy motor tips&tricksCumulus MFC
Sep 19, 2019, 11:23 AM
Electric
Thread OP
Fortunately the ESC is from an ill fated project in a close group of guys so it's no biggy if it works or not, I am not gonna be happy about being out $120 and what I'm putting in to fix it...., but hey the journey's half the fun and having a spare 160A esc would be a bonus. If not, meh it's nothing to cry over and get angry about since we get to have a good look at this thing and perhaps someone can learn something too

This is the 3.3% core leadfree pounder of solder I picked up on Amazon.

I used my Dremel and cutoff disc to carefully grind away where the old 8ga. stock leads where anchored so I can solder new 10ga. leads for my motor/battery.

Also, no data sheet on the caps that arrived but they look normal.
Last edited by DeadstickDuck; Sep 23, 2019 at 03:49 AM.
Sep 21, 2019, 03:35 AM
jofro
Good way to save few dollars if it works, ESC's seem to cost arms and legs these days with all the monopoli Co. taking over.
Where are the good old days I got 250 A one for under $200- Aust.
Sep 21, 2019, 09:19 AM
Electric
Thread OP
Just waiting on my rosin flux paste to show up tomorrow sometime. The pound of solder I received is 3.3% rosin core....., better then the 2.3% of my other pounder. I will start posting some solding results or lack of

Betting my old tip and 2.3% solder were not helpful. Or no FLUX.
Sep 22, 2019, 06:29 PM
homo ludens modellisticus
Ron van Sommeren's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by jofro

click to enlarge
Regarding the two battery wire extensions in the picture above: the extra capacitors should be installed on or as close to ESC as possible, not on the extension wires, not distributed along the battery wires.The further away from ESC, the lower their effectivity.



click to enlarge


More info in
Too long battery wires can kill ESC: precautions, solutions & workarounds - RCG
Contents
  • Example Four costly controllers consecutively cremated
  • Solutions I & II, rules of thumb
  • Problems caused by long battery wires: input capacitor overheating and transistor breakdown.
  • Rubbish! I have no problems.
  • Capacitor type & polarity (orientation!)
  • How & where (not) to add extra capacitors
  • DIY capacitor pack pictures
  • Capacitor & pack suppliers
  • Expert/manufacturer opinions, they all say the same ... & their rules of thumb
  • Explanation, water hammer/knock analogy, theory, references, measurements
Vriendelijke groeten Ron
Without a watt-meter you are in the dark ... until something starts to glow
e-flight calculators watt-meters diy motor tips&tricks Cumulus MFC
Last edited by Ron van Sommeren; Sep 24, 2019 at 05:41 AM.
Sep 23, 2019, 03:43 AM
Electric
Thread OP
Arrived home to find my flux in the mailbox! Time to make some smoke muhahahahha.

That Ron, is an excellent link for knowledge that has a few topics I've definitely scratched my head over a few times, thanks for sharing......(I've got some reading to do 'cuz this looks interesting! ) Exactly why I like these groups. You guys are awesome

Modifications:
I am actually setting this 160HV esoc up to run in aanother one of my 10s1800mah F5B planes where I will only be hitting full throttle on a switch set up with a 2-step ramp. Full power of @9000w is used for about 15-to-20 bursts of 1~2 second pumps of energy. There is no need for 8ga. leads and they can be made to 10ga. to aid in making more room up in the nose/flexibility and, making the battery leads 10ga. Makes for more room for batteries and getting connectors to fit under the wing when you bolt it on lol. Capacitors between the main leads are moved to the center of the esc to make the unit shorter, then again allowing almost another 20mm of additional battery compartment space.

Battery leads are short..., talking 75mm. Will know when I'm done.

off to the work bench!
Last edited by DeadstickDuck; Sep 23, 2019 at 04:10 AM.
Sep 23, 2019, 04:10 AM
jofro
The flux I find very useful for any type of soldering job. (pic)
Sep 23, 2019, 04:38 AM
Electric
Thread OP
Mine is only a 65w unit after all. Looks like I'm buying a new iron tomorrow if she doesn't get hot enough

I can test in the meantime.... 65 watts.. I feel less of a man now

All these years I never knew. I was soldering with only 65

.....Nope...., Not hit enough!
Last edited by DeadstickDuck; Sep 23, 2019 at 06:11 AM.
Sep 23, 2019, 12:30 PM
homo ludens modellisticus
Ron van Sommeren's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron van Sommeren
... the extra capacitors must be installed on or close to ESC. ...
Click to enlarge. More pictures in aforementioned too long battery wires ... opening post.



Correct methods.



Vriendelijke groeten Ron
• Without a watt-meter you are in the dark ... until something starts to glow •
e-flight calculatorswatt-metersdiy motor tips&tricksCumulus MFC
Last edited by Ron van Sommeren; Sep 23, 2019 at 03:48 PM.
Sep 23, 2019, 03:29 PM
Registered User
GeoffS's Avatar

Electronics flux


For use with electronics, this Amtech is the best flux I've ever found:
https://store.rossmanngroup.com/inde...-cc-16160.html
Highly recommended over the paste stuff in tins.

Also, I would switch to a standard 63% Tin / 37% Lead (aka "63/37") solder.
The lead-free stuff is really much harder to use for hand-soldering.
For more information about why that is, google "why lead solder is better", or:
https://electronics.stackexchange.co...ad-free-solder
In fact, I recommend a multi-step process for working on a joint that was made with lead-free solder:
  1. Apply flux and heat the existing joint.
  2. Pull off the wire that's already connected (if there is one).
  3. Let the joint cool down a bit (just to reduce the chance of damaging the solder-pad's connection to the PCB substrate).
  4. Add some more flux. Heat the joint and flow on some 63/37 solder (this will dilute the lead-free solder and make is a bit easier to melt).
  5. Use a copper braid solder-wick to remove all of the old the solder (more flux helps here, too).
  6. Once all the old solder is gone, re-tin with 63/37 (more flux is good here, too).
  7. Tin the new wire with 63/37.
  8. Add more flux on the pad and heat the wire+pad to reflow the solder together.
Last edited by GeoffS; Sep 23, 2019 at 06:53 PM.


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