Thread Tools
Oct 15, 2019, 05:33 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
Rubbish.. utter rubbish..

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Oct 15, 2019, 05:40 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
Wait.. did I say rubbish?? I knew that collecting trash.. hemmm.. storing every bit of recyclable materials I find in the neighborhood would have paid back one day....

This was the backing board of some truly awful picture which I found ages ago and never got around to use with something more worthy.. not sure if it is the famed hobby plywood, but it is thin, sturdy, light and free

I just need to find a larger but for the centre hole and I have enough for 80 firewalls or so..

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Oct 15, 2019, 05:45 PM
IMO ( In My Opinion ) →
balsa or carbon's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by McAl

Just a question, are you familiar with the charger you sent me, by any chance?
I put both batteries charging for several hours each, that at 0.8 Amps should be plenty for an 800mha, or so I understand.
The green light, which accordingly to the manual is supposed to go off when fully charged, stays on.
In the end I tested the two batteries with my multimeter.
The both read 11,1v total, and 3,7v for each cell. I was expecting 12,3v total and around 4,1v for each cell.

So, I supect the thing did not charge them at all and I am trying to troubleshoot the problem.
I am powering it with one of those multivoltage adapters, which I set to 12v (the charger instructions mention 11-14v , 1,2A input..) The adapter label does not mention the Amps rating, so that might be the problem. But I have no way to test that, because I don't trust myself with the procedure for testing the actual amps output.
However, the label does mention 30W. Also, not sure if that is indicative, but the adapter has a usb out as well, which the label describes as 5v, 2.1A.
30W should be plenty to power the charger, shouldn't it?

So, if I do not manage to troubleshoot the problem, I might just get another charger from Amazon (Hobbyking has better prices but the UK warehouse only seemed to have the Turnigy and quite expensive alternatives last I checked, and with Amazon I get a one off discount, free next day delivery and easy returns if needed).

I have seen these three, would you mind giving me an opinion?


https://www.amazon.co.uk/Haisito-Bal...C5DA7ZBVCV9WB3

I like it because it charges 2 packs at time, at 20w each which is a good compromise, it has a display and the power adapter is integrated, but it only does Lipo 2-4S. Admittedly it would be more than enough for me right now though.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/SKYRC-Balan...0T3FP03A1CA5HQ

I like it because it is a bit cheaper, it charges at 30W and again it has no external power brick or adapter required.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07SS2FL...v_ov_lig_dp_it

I like it because it is very versatile and does discharging for storage too. In general I have chargers for other battery types but it is always good to have a jack of all trades in a pinch, or if I need to charge something very occasionally. However, it is huge and the power brick is bigger still (I am already wading in chargers and cables flooding our tiny house).
I have flying buddies who use your charger for charging at the flying field connected to a car battery ..... have you tried connecting to your car battery ? A 3S lipo battery fully charged should be ( close to ) 12.6v , or 4.2v per cell .

HobbyKing UK has an inexpensive 12v 3A power supply : https://hobbyking.com/en_us/power-su...-upgraded.html , or if you believe you'll stay in the hobby ..... get a more advanced lipo balance charger .

I am not familiar with the first two chargers you linked , but the third one is what I use ..... it is versatile and reliable .

BTW , when I was on the HobbyKing UK website .... I noticed they now have 1000mAh 3S ( with JST plug ) batteries in stock : https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...lipo-pack.html
Last edited by balsa or carbon; Oct 15, 2019 at 05:54 PM.
Oct 15, 2019, 05:50 PM
IMO ( In My Opinion ) →
balsa or carbon's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by McAl
Wait.. did I say rubbish?? I knew that collecting trash.. hemmm.. storing every bit of recyclable materials I find in the neighborhood would have paid back one day....

This was the backing board of some truly awful picture which I found ages ago and never got around to use with something more worthy.. not sure if it is the famed hobby plywood, but it is thin, sturdy, light and free

I just need to find a larger but for the centre hole and I have enough for 80 firewalls or so.
That should work well for a firewall !
Oct 15, 2019, 07:05 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by balsa or carbon
I have flying buddies who use your charger for charging at the flying field connected to a car battery ..... have you tried connecting to your car battery ? A 3S lipo battery fully charged should be ( close to ) 12.6v , or 4.2v per cell .

HobbyKing UK has an inexpensive 12v 3A power supply : https://hobbyking.com/en_us/power-su...-upgraded.html , or if you believe you'll stay in the hobby ..... get a more advanced lipo balance charger .

I am not familiar with the first two chargers you linked , but the third one is what I use ..... it is versatile and reliable .

BTW , when I was on the HobbyKing UK website .... I noticed they now have 1000mAh 3S ( with JST plug ) batteries in stock : https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...lipo-pack.html
I have no car here in London, so unfortunately I cannot test it that way.
I will go rummaging a bit more around the house in case I have another suitable adapter.

I am glad you find that last charger reliable, I will go for that one if I do not manage to sort out the Turnigy then..
Speaking of which, I do have a few laptop chargers knocking in my drawers and also one for a parrot anafi charger (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kismaple-AN...1181746&sr=8-1)
By any chance, do you know what voltage does that charger take?
If I have something compatible, I could save a few bucks by getting it without power adapter, while avoiding buying yet another duplicate adapter..

By the way, I saw they sell boards allowing to do parallel charging of a few batteries at the same time.. Are these reasonably safe if used sparringly or is it a sure way to start a fire?

Quote:
Originally Posted by balsa or carbon
That should work well for a firewall !
I am glad you think its ok, it is all (very slowly) coming together, I am looking forward to install the electronics.
I was considering whether to mount the motor casing on heavy duty velcro, using reinforced tapeas an interface between the velcro and the foam, in case I want to make a slightly larger Super Easy, or another compatible push plane, at a later time.
The velcro I normally use is this, which gives 3,5 KG for a 5X5 cm strip:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But perhaps is a silly idea.. Even if the velcro is strong enough, which I am not 100% sure of, vibrations might spoil the alignment of the motor soon enough, and lining up the case on a new plane might be more time consuming than simply building another casing and firewall and transferring the motor to that.

Thanks for spotting the 1000mha batteries. Once I figure out how much safe flying time the 800mha give me, if everything goes well I will order a few, along with a second motor, ESC and several more 9g servos. So I can keep one plane ready to fly all the time while I fiddle with more plans
My kid said he is looking forward to see the SE fly (even if said that while eyeing the FT Flyer, I think that fits more is idea of proper plane) so perhaps I can get him to give it a go too..
Oct 15, 2019, 07:50 PM
IMO ( In My Opinion ) →
balsa or carbon's Avatar
Take a look at the various chargers/adapters you have around the house and see if one has an output of 12v 3A .... if so , that might work for powering your Turnigy charger . The input required for your Turnigy charger is 11v - 14v DC , 1.2A .

I can't tell from your link if that Parrot Anafi charger is a lipo balance charger . For your 3S lipo batteries , you need a lipo balance charger that balances the charge equally to all 3 cells .

Fire danger ( as far as I know ) with lipo batteries is due to damage to the battery , or over-charging , or improperly connecting the battery . I have never parallel charged my lipo batteries , so I don't know how safe that is .

I have never mounted a motor with velcro , so I don't know how well that would work . I usually mount the motor permanently to a firewall or stick , then hot glue the firewall/stick to the plane . If I want to transfer the motor to another plane , I remove the motor/firewall/stick assembly as one unit .... and transfer the whole unit to the new plane . The hot-glue/foam residue left attached to the firewall/stick can be scraped off , I usually use a broken propeller blade as a scraper . I've heard ( but never tried ) that rubbing alcohol will aid in removing hot glue .

Did the servo centering instructions make sense to you ?
Oct 15, 2019, 08:39 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
Sorry, the way I phrased my question was a bit confusing.
The anafi charger is specific to the anafi batteries and I think it can only used with those. However, it is powered by a brick which might be similar in voltage and connector type to the one which powers your charger.
So I might already have a suitable power adapter and I could get away with buying just the charger.

The procedure for the servo centering sounds clear enough, thanks. I meant to try it today, but then I realised about the problem with the charger.
However, given I do not need to power the motor, perhaps I could give it a go even if the batteries are at 3.7.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Oct 15, 2019, 11:33 PM
IMO ( In My Opinion ) →
balsa or carbon's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by McAl
Sorry, the way I phrased my question was a bit confusing.
The anafi charger is specific to the anafi batteries and I think it can only used with those. However, it is powered by a brick which might be similar in voltage and connector type to the one which powers your charger.
So I might already have a suitable power adapter and I could get away with buying just the charger.

The procedure for the servo centering sounds clear enough, thanks. I meant to try it today, but then I realised about the problem with the charger.
However, given I do not need to power the motor, perhaps I could give it a go even if the batteries are at 3.7.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
I'm no electronics expert , but does the power brick from the Anafi charger indicate it's output ? If it is 11v -14v with at least 1.2A output , it might work .

For centering the servos , try powering the ESC with the 11.1v ( 3.7v per cell ) battery .... if it works , great ! If it doesn't work , wait until you get a battery charged up . Or if you are handy , rig a receiver battery to connect directly to the receiver ..... no more than 6v . Four 1.5v AA batteries in series will add up to 6v .
Oct 16, 2019, 04:02 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by balsa or carbon
I'm no electronics expert , but does the power brick from the Anafi charger indicate it's output ? If it is 11v -14v with at least 1.2A output , it might work .

For centering the servos , try powering the ESC with the 11.1v ( 3.7v per cell ) battery .... if it works , great ! If it doesn't work , wait until you get a battery charged up . Or if you are handy , rig a receiver battery to connect directly to the receiver ..... no more than 6v . Four 1.5v AA batteries in series will add up to 6v .

Dang, the Anafi charger brick has plenty of amps but it is 15v, so not an option.

On the plus side, what I was looking for was in front of my eyes all the time My wife external hard disk charger is 12v and the Turnigy charger started blinking as soon as I plugged the battery in! Fingers crossed, it should be charging now..
Now, I can only hope the missus is not taken by an urgent need to review her old photos before I am done
Oct 16, 2019, 06:57 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
I spoke too soon, with one battery the charged blinked for some time and then turned off the green light with both batteries, but when checking their voltage, they are still at 3,7 per cell.

I ordered the charger from Amazon, hopefully that will work

Later I will look into connecting the servos for centering.
Oct 16, 2019, 11:40 AM
IMO ( In My Opinion ) →
balsa or carbon's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by McAl
I spoke too soon, with one battery the charged blinked for some time and then turned off the green light with both batteries, but when checking their voltage, they are still at 3,7 per cell.

I ordered the charger from Amazon, hopefully that will work

Later I will look into connecting the servos for centering.
With the Turnigy charger , you don't want any blinking lights . You want a solid red light when it is connected to power , then you want a solid green light when you connect the lipo battery .

You ordered the iMax B6 ? No doubt that will work !
When you get it , try the Turnigy charger again with the power supply brick .
Oct 16, 2019, 08:38 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by balsa or carbon
With the Turnigy charger , you don't want any blinking lights . You want a solid red light when it is connected to power , then you want a solid green light when you connect the lipo battery .

You ordered the iMax B6 ? No doubt that will work !
When you get it , try the Turnigy charger again with the power supply brick .
I was under the impression from reading the manual that solid green meant charging like you say, but given with the first charger it was giving me solid green for hours without actually charging, blinking with the second charger gave me some hope. But no

Well, hopefully the iMax B6 knock off will get the job done


Well, I was burning to test, so I gave it a go with the discharged batteries anyway, servo centering accomplished:

Turnigy 6 channels first test (0 min 36 sec)


At first I went wrong with the pins orientation on the esc connection (my main light bulb gave up the ghost just before finishing assembling, as you might notice from the moody lighting in the video), also one of the battery connectors gave a tiny spark when first connecting. So I started thinking I might have done some mistake soldering but I was quite positive that everything was as it should be.
Then I checked my connectors and fortunately it was just that!

So, tomorrow the charger is coming, along with some servo extension cables, and I should be all set.
I just need to make a second firewall, a tall motor casing for the Super Easy to give ore clearance to the propeller, like you showed me in photograph, fitting some velcro for battery, ESC and receiver, and of course fitting the servos, horns and push rods.

Just three things, if you can:
1) I am going to give the elevators some reflex like you showed me, is that done through trimming on the remote or by adjusting the push rods the horn? Is there any specific angle or you just eye it?
2) I did my best to fit the servos' arms 90 degrees to the casing, but they do not seem to fit exactly perpendicular, they are off a few degrees, will that be a problem? Do I need to glue and/or screw the arms in place?
3) The material I am using for the firewall is quite thin, so wood screws would not have much to bite on, so I might get some small nuts and bolts from the hardware store,and perhaps put a bit of glue on the nuts, in case they come loose because of the vibrations. Does that sound like a good idea?

Thanks!
Oct 16, 2019, 11:13 PM
IMO ( In My Opinion ) →
balsa or carbon's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by McAl
I was under the impression from reading the manual that solid green meant charging like you say, but given with the first charger it was giving me solid green for hours without actually charging, blinking with the second charger gave me some hope. But no

Well, hopefully the iMax B6 knock off will get the job done


Well, I was burning to test, so I gave it a go with the discharged batteries anyway, servo centering accomplished:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vjryefDywU4

At first I went wrong with the pins orientation on the esc connection (my main light bulb gave up the ghost just before finishing assembling, as you might notice from the moody lighting in the video), also one of the battery connectors gave a tiny spark when first connecting. So I started thinking I might have done some mistake soldering but I was quite positive that everything was as it should be.
Then I checked my connectors and fortunately it was just that!

So, tomorrow the charger is coming, along with some servo extension cables, and I should be all set.
I just need to make a second firewall, a tall motor casing for the Super Easy to give ore clearance to the propeller, like you showed me in photograph, fitting some velcro for battery, ESC and receiver, and of course fitting the servos, horns and push rods.

Just three things, if you can:
1) I am going to give the elevators some reflex like you showed me, is that done through trimming on the remote or by adjusting the push rods the horn? Is there any specific angle or you just eye it?
2) I did my best to fit the servos' arms 90 degrees to the casing, but they do not seem to fit exactly perpendicular, they are off a few degrees, will that be a problem? Do I need to glue and/or screw the arms in place?
3) The material I am using for the firewall is quite thin, so wood screws would not have much to bite on, so I might get some small nuts and bolts from the hardware store,and perhaps put a bit of glue on the nuts, in case they come loose because of the vibrations. Does that sound like a good idea?

Thanks!
Cool ! You got the electronics working !

I noticed in your video that you have the rudder servo connected to channel 4 on the receiver . When you fly on a simulator , do you make left/right turns with the left TX stick ( channel 4 ) or the right TX stick ( channel 1 ) ? If you are used to making turns with the right TX stick , for the Super Easy .... plug the rudder servo into channel 1 ( aileron channel ) . The rudder control surface on the Super Easy controls roll primarily , and also yaw secondarily .

1) for reflex on the elevators , keep the servo centered and adjust the reflex with the pushrods . That way you will have full up elevator if you need it during flight ( for when you do a loop ! ) . Planes often have a "V" bend on the pushrods to make small pushrod length adjustments ( see photo below ) . The reflex should be about 6mm or 7mm , but more importantly the reflex should be equal for both elevators .

2) the splines on the servo and servo arm often don't allow the arm to fit on exactly at 90 , a tiny bit off won't be a problem . When/if you get a more advanced computer radio , it will likely have sub-trim on the programming menu . You can then use sub-trim to adjust the arm to exactly 90 . In the plastic bag with each servo there are three screws , two larger wood screws for mounting the servo to an airplane made of wood ..... and one smaller screw for holding in place the servo arm to the servo .

3) Yes , nuts and bolts will be fine for attaching the motor to the firewall . If you can get locking nuts or lock washers that would be good , but also some thread lock or super glue ( CA ) . You may be able to get blind nuts that embed themselves into the firewall .
Oct 17, 2019, 07:01 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
The charger arrived and it works great!
I recharged balanced at 1C, to stay safe, and within a few hours the batteries were done.
I have yet to try the other charger with the more powerful adapter, perhaps it wil work fine.

Initially, because I did not know any better, I practised with the simulator with the throttle inverted I did it for acouple of weeks, I suspect it comes more natural to me that way for some reason, but then I realized that nobody flies like that, so I switched to mode 2.

I assumed that the rudder had to be on the left stick, like when flying 4 channels, but if on the SE the rudder makes it mostly roll, it makes sense to switch to the right stick , I'll do that.

My local hardware store does not stock any bolts small enough to fit the motor mount holes, unless I enlarge them. Actually, I am quite positive I must have somewhere a box of tiny ones, but I do not seem to be able to find it.
The easiest solution not involving ordering online and havign to wait a few more days for delivery, would be to glue a few strips of plywood on the back of the firewall, so to be able to use screws. I could use the screws which came with the servos, given the are small enough and I am not going to use them for the servos anyway.
Not sure if that would be secure enough?
The only other alternative I can think of would be of course to drill through the mount holes to enlarge them enough to take a larger bolt.
Oct 17, 2019, 08:00 PM
IMO ( In My Opinion ) →
balsa or carbon's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by McAl
The charger arrived and it works great!
I recharged balanced at 1C, to stay safe, and within a few hours the batteries were done.
I have yet to try the other charger with the more powerful adapter, perhaps it wil work fine.

Initially, because I did not know any better, I practised with the simulator with the throttle inverted I did it for acouple of weeks, I suspect it comes more natural to me that way for some reason, but then I realized that nobody flies like that, so I switched to mode 2.

I assumed that the rudder had to be on the left stick, like when flying 4 channels, but if on the SE the rudder makes it mostly roll, it makes sense to switch to the right stick , I'll do that.

My local hardware store does not stock any bolts small enough to fit the motor mount holes, unless I enlarge them. Actually, I am quite positive I must have somewhere a box of tiny ones, but I do not seem to be able to find it.
The easiest solution not involving ordering online and havign to wait a few more days for delivery, would be to glue a few strips of plywood on the back of the firewall, so to be able to use screws. I could use the screws which came with the servos, given the are small enough and I am not going to use them for the servos anyway.
Not sure if that would be secure enough?
The only other alternative I can think of would be of course to drill through the mount holes to enlarge them enough to take a larger bolt.

I'm glad your new charger works well !


Yes , the Super Easy is a "bank 'n' yank" style flyer ( roll and pitch control to make turns ) , the more you bank it .... the more up elevator ( yank ) you need to complete a turn . It flies similar to a flying wing or delta , but with some self-righting due to the dihedral . So set up your Super Easy as I did in this video ..... throttle only on the left stick , all directional control on the right stick :


Super Easy control functions (0 min 39 sec)




I think glueing some wood strips to the back of the firewall is a good idea . I often use the wood screws that come with the servos for attaching a motor mount to a firewall , and a little CA super glue will keep them from coming loose . 4 of those screws should be a secure attachment , but it's always a good idea to check over everything on a plane ..... especially after a crash .


Quick Reply
Message:

Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Cool XK A600 4CH Brushless "DHC-2" Scale RTF Plane FyreSG Micro Ready-to-Fly 1109 Yesterday 10:03 PM
Discussion Hello everybody! Just got my first plane, a DHC-2 A600 McAl New Member Section 0 Sep 14, 2019 05:08 PM