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Sep 27, 2019, 12:56 PM
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If possible , show us photos of your progress ..... and videos of your first flights . Photos can help us spot any potential problems with the plane construction , and videos can help us spot any potential set-up , tuning , and flying technique problems .

In the EzFly thread , RC Groups member jgreetham did so ↑ .... and it helped him achieve his first successful RC flights . You can follow his progress starting at post #2874 , where he states : "I really want to get a successful flight. My wife is expressing doubts."
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...-plane/page192
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Oct 06, 2019, 05:24 PM
IMO ( In My Opinion ) →
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Here's a video of my son flying my Super Easy this morning :



Super Easy RC airplane (1 min 25 sec)
Oct 12, 2019, 03:18 PM
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Prop slot location & CG location on a Super Easy .
Oct 14, 2019, 07:14 PM
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As promised, a few, not so good photos @balsa or carbon

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Oct 14, 2019, 07:40 PM
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Those will fly !!

Are you ready to center your servos yet ?
Oct 14, 2019, 07:46 PM
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Just curious , what are those foam pieces at the rear of the prop slot ? ↓
Oct 14, 2019, 07:50 PM
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Also , it looks like the dihedral angle might be a little flat on the FT Flyer . The dihedral angle on your Super Easy looks good .
Oct 14, 2019, 08:33 PM
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I hope I can can cram in a few more hours tomorrow.
To be honest, I have done quite a few mistakes, including mounting the tail on the FT Flyer so that it is one inch or so longer than it should be. So the CG will probably require more weight on the nose. But anyway, it will be a while before I mount electronics on that one. I will start with the Super Easy and try and get confident with that first.

I have a few questions if you can:

- In a setup like the V required for the Super Easy elevators, are the control horns supposed to be in line with the aircraft longitudinal line, or rather with the push rod (so pointing towards the servo arm ) ?

- I was reading that placing the push rod in the servo arm hole closest to the servo, and hooking it on the highest hole on the control horn, increases the resolution. I understand this means that turns will be less abrupt and more controlled (which I find attractive given I am not exactly a great pilot) . Is this correct?

- Does it make sense to reinforce the Super Easy central section with a few BBQ skewers? I made it, like the rest of the plane, with two layers of 3mm foam, and it feels a bit bendy.
I put a thin layer of hot glue on most edges, in the hope to make it more impact resistant. I also considered lining the three main edges with a thin stip of balsa, but then I read one of your posts explaining that it would make the plane too heavy and so more likely to get damaged in a crash, so I set the idea aside.
I did put foam supports on the central line though, like in your photos, and that definitely made it a bit more sturdy and rigid.

- This is a bit of a silly question but, when mounting the bottom section I found it hard to glue it straight just eyeing it, because of the wings dihedral. So I made several foam patterns with the dihedral angle, cut the right in the middle, and used them to support the central section from both sides while gluing little sections at time.
Is there a more intelligent way to do that? Perhaps one which does not require three hands

- In practical terms, what is the difference between using a 2 cells battery versus a 3 cell battery of the same capacity? I mean, of course three 3,7v cells will allow for 50% more voltage than two, so, if I understand what the Kv rating is, the propeller will spin much faster. But would a 2 cells (with perhaps a larger propeller) be a better choice for longer flights?
Oct 14, 2019, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by balsa or carbon
Just curious , what are those foam pieces at the rear of the prop slot ? ↓
Good eye as always
Hemm, I made some templates to keep the central section straight while gluing it.
Then I though of experimenting by actually gluing two in to see what they would look like and if they would make the plane more solid, but of course the aerodynamics might suffer, so I was thinking to trim them off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by balsa or carbon
Also , it looks like the dihedral angle might be a little flat on the FT Flyer . The dihedral angle on your Super Easy looks good .
FT has at least two different videos about assembling the FT flyer, with two different approaches to setting the dihedral. One is about sitting the wings upside down on the pod and pushing them down so they touch the table. The second is about putting one wing straight on a box or something at a certain height and pushing down the other wing all the way to the table surface.
I tried the second approach, as it seemed more precise, but I guess I must have done something wrong


Quote:
Originally Posted by balsa or carbon
Those will fly !!

Are you ready to center your servos yet ?
That's great
Thanks so much again, without your help I would have got entirely lost in the myriad of things one needs to learn

Actually, I was trying to figure out how to center the servos just today. I watched a few videos and read a few threads, but I am still behind with the soldering. I understand that (beside getting or making a servo centerer device) for centering servos I will need to power them with the ESC?

Thanks again!
Oct 14, 2019, 08:58 PM
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Popsicle firewalls as you suggested, tomorrow I will try and trim them

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Oct 14, 2019, 09:11 PM
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Line up the control horns on the elevators with the "V" pushrod wires .

Yes , for less travel : connect the pushrod to the inner hole on the servo arm , and to the outer hole on the control horn .

Yes , you can reinforce the wings with bamboo skewers .... especially if you plan on doing loops with the plane ( high G forces ) . One fellow did two spars with a cross-brace ( see photo below ) .

Glueing the keel bottom section to the wings so it's straight .... is not easy , just do the best you can .

Higher voltage ( 3S ) means higher RPM's than lower voltage ( 2S ) . If you buy additional batteries , I recommend 1000mAh -
1300mAh 3S for longer flight times . If you want , you could solder a series harness to connect both of the 800mAh together . Two 800mAh batteries connected in series would add up to 1600mAh .
Oct 14, 2019, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McAl

Actually, I was trying to figure out how to center the servos just today. I watched a few videos and read a few threads, but I am still behind with the soldering. I understand that (beside getting or making a servo centerer device) for centering servos I will need to power them with the ESC?
I would trim off those two pieces at the rear of the prop slot , they may partially block the prop-wash/thrust from the prop .


To center the servos ( before installing the servo arms ) , you don't need a servo centering device .

To power and center the servos :
1) connect the servos to the receiver , channel 1 ( aileron ) and channel 2 ( elevator ) . Make sure the polarity is correct .... ground to ground , signal to signal .

2) with the transmitter on , make sure the trim tabs for channel 1 and 2 on the transmitter are centered . They are centered when the beep tone is higher . Move the throttle trim tab all the way down ( throttle off ) . Then turn the transmitter off .

3) if the motor is already connected to the ESC , take the prop off .

4) connect the ESC lead to the receiver , channel 3 ( throttle channel ) .

5) with the throttle stick all the way down , turn on the transmitter .

6) connect the lipo battery to the ESC . The ESC's internal BEC will reduce the 12.6v of the lipo battery to 5.5v going to the receiver .

7) as soon as the RF connection is made between the transmitter & receiver ( a second or two ) , the servos will instantly center .

8) install the servo arms on the servos at a 90 angle to the servo .
Oct 15, 2019, 11:51 AM
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Very important correction


VERY IMPORTANT CORRECTION to post # 56 , make a parallel harness ..... not a series harness . A parallel harness will double the mAh ( what you want ) , a series harness will double the voltage ( what you don't want ) .
Oct 15, 2019, 01:24 PM
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Just curious : did you ever build a wing for your XK DHC-2 A600 , and then fly it again ?
Oct 15, 2019, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by balsa or carbon
VERY IMPORTANT CORRECTION to post # 56 , make a parallel harness ..... not a series harness . A parallel harness will double the mAh ( what you want ) , a series harness will double the voltage ( what you don't want ) .
Thanks, I was wondering about that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by balsa or carbon
Just curious : did you ever build a wing for your XK DHC-2 A600 , and then fly it again ?
Not yet, but that is certainly on my wishlist.
I just finished reading through https://rcplanes.online/design.htm , which was really exciting
Perhaps I can learn something by crafting a few prototypes and see how they fare on the A600, but when the time comes I wil in first place try and replicate the shape and airfoil of the original wing.

But to be very honest, right now I am looking forward to see if my SE will fly well enough. In principle the A600 is a beautiful little plane, but it was a mistake to start from there. Even with the electronics behaving, which is not unfortunately the case for my specific plane (at times the throttle will cut off and refuse to power the motor unless one keeps pressed the stick) it is a pretty fast plane in the hamfisted hands of a beginner such as myself.

Just a question, are you familiar with the charger you sent me, by any chance?
I put both batteries charging for several hours each, that at 0.8 Amps should be plenty for an 800mha, or so I understand.
The green light, which accordingly to the manual is supposed to go off when fully charged, stays on.
In the end I tested the two batteries with my multimeter.
The both read 11,1v total, and 3,7v for each cell. I was expecting 12,3v total and around 4,1v for each cell.

So, I supect the thing did not charge them at all and I am trying to troubleshoot the problem.
I am powering it with one of those multivoltage adapters, which I set to 12v (the charger instructions mention 11-14v , 1,2A input..) The adapter label does not mention the Amps rating, so that might be the problem. But I have no way to test that, because I don't trust myself with the procedure for testing the actual amps output.
However, the label does mention 30W. Also, not sure if that is indicative, but the adapter has a usb out as well, which the label describes as 5v, 2.1A.
30W should be plenty to power the charger, shouldn't it?

So, if I do not manage to troubleshoot the problem, I might just get another charger from Amazon (Hobbyking has better prices but the UK warehouse only seemed to have the Turnigy and quite expensive alternatives last I checked, and with Amazon I get a one off discount, free next day delivery and easy returns if needed).

I have seen these three, would you mind giving me an opinion?


https://www.amazon.co.uk/Haisito-Bal...C5DA7ZBVCV9WB3

I like it because it charges 2 packs at time, at 20w each which is a good compromise, it has a display and the power adapter is integrated, but it only does Lipo 2-4S. Admittedly it would be more than enough for me right now though.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/SKYRC-Balan...0T3FP03A1CA5HQ

I like it because it is a bit cheaper, it charges at 30W and again it has no external power brick or adapter required.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07SS2FL...v_ov_lig_dp_it

I like it because it is very versatile and does discharging for storage too. In general I have chargers for other battery types but it is always good to have a jack of all trades in a pinch, or if I need to charge something very occasionally. However, it is huge and the power brick is bigger still (I am already wading in chargers and cables flooding our tiny house).


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