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Sep 11, 2019, 05:48 PM
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Trisnpod's Avatar
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Cant get camera to connect with predator v2s


As above - just canít get the video to show up on the goggles. Unfortunately I canít seem to find any information on the camera, if I type the details on the box into google it comes up with this: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F183702160346 which looks different but has the same light system on the back for channel selection.

Anyone know what this camera is and where I can get the frequency chart? Or does it not matter what frequency Iím on, the fat sharks should automatically find it?
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Sep 12, 2019, 12:16 AM
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It is always better to know what the video transmitter is set to, but a good quality receiver should be able to find the correct frequency. I'd just do auto search, and if it consistently finds the same frequency, you can be pretty sure that's the right one. If it finds more than one it can lock onto, try the same but with more distance between goggles and camera. At distance the signal will be weaker, and any "side-channels" should not be picked up by the receiver as easily, and mistaken for the main frequency.
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Sep 12, 2019, 03:17 AM
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Thanks for the reply. Do you know how to do auto scan on the predator v2s? I can’t find the information anywhere.
Sep 12, 2019, 04:46 AM
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Have you tried looking for the manual on the Fatshark website? Here's a link to the support page with manuals for all goggles:

https://fatshark.helpscoutdocs.com/article/105-headsets


I get the impression the Predator V2 only supports 7 different FPV frequencies...?

CH1: 5740 MHz CH2: 5760 MHz CH3: 5780 MHz CH4: 5800 Mhz
CH5: 5820 MHz CH6: 5840 Mhz CH7: 5860 MHz
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Sep 12, 2019, 03:34 PM
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Just checked the goggles with a different camera/transmitter which worked so theyíre definitely not the problem. One thing that could an issue on the camera is that is has a video output lead which came not soldered to anything. I assumed this would just be for osds or something and thereíd be another connection from the camera to the transmitter but maybe there isnít and I have to solder the connection? I didnít see anything about this when I bought it but itís a thought.
If I canít get it working by the end of the week Iíll just buy a better camera.
Sep 13, 2019, 12:41 AM
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Are there any markings on your AIO camera, some abbreviations, etc? Maybe then we can find the exact type and it's frequency chart.

Btw, I overlooked the yellow and white wires not being connected. To be able to get any image, these should either be connected to a flight controller with OSD, one wire to video in, and one wire to video out, but if your quad has no OSD, you should just connect the white wire to the yellow one directly. In this situation, the camera's video signal is not getting to the VTX at all, so even when you have the goggles and VTX set to the same frequency, you will just see noise, or a blank screen, but my guess is probably just noise.

So before you throw it out, connect the yellow and white wire and put insulation around the joint. Then check again. If you get no image on any of the 7 channels on the goggles, you can just try pressing the button on the VTX. Usually single presses advance a channel number, and long presses advance a band. I think you should be able to get an image this way.
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Sep 14, 2019, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoloProFan
Are there any markings on your AIO camera, some abbreviations, etc? Maybe then we can find the exact type and it's frequency chart.

Btw, I overlooked the yellow and white wires not being connected. To be able to get any image, these should either be connected to a flight controller with OSD, one wire to video in, and one wire to video out, but if your quad has no OSD, you should just connect the white wire to the yellow one directly. In this situation, the camera's video signal is not getting to the VTX at all, so even when you have the goggles and VTX set to the same frequency, you will just see noise, or a blank screen, but my guess is probably just noise.

So before you throw it out, connect the yellow and white wire and put insulation around the joint. Then check again. If you get no image on any of the 7 channels on the goggles, you can just try pressing the button on the VTX. Usually single presses advance a channel number, and long presses advance a band. I think you should be able to get an image this way.
Thanks so much, that was it! All sorted now apart from one (hopefully) small issue - once the battery is plugged in the video link gradually deteriorates until after about 30 seconds where itís just static. Tried disconnecting the camera and plugging it direct into the battery - no such issue. Could this be something to do with noise from the board? At the moment I have the camera soldered to the battery connector on the board. Previously I had it on unused +- pads but that was so noisy there was no signal to start with.
Sep 15, 2019, 01:50 AM
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Did you leave the camera/VTX on for longer periods of time while trying to make it work? A degrading signal tends to indicate the VTX heating up, and shutting down. It could be better if you have some airflow over the VTX, like when flying, the rotating props, and moving through the air, create cooling. It could also be that due the VTX being on for longer periods of time while you were trying to get image on your goggles, and being without any cooling for a longer period of time, the VTX has degraded due to overheating, and even with cooling will not show an image for even a minute or so.

You can try setting up a table fan to blow over the VTX, and see if it keeps image for a longer span of time. If it works well then, it will probably be ok in flight too. If it still loses video within a minute, I suspect the VTX is done for, and you have to replace it.
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Sep 16, 2019, 04:56 PM
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I’ll give that a go. Weird thing is it works fine when camera’s connected direct to the battery - this only happens when it’s soldered to the board.
Sep 16, 2019, 11:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trisnpod
Iíll give that a go. Weird thing is it works fine when cameraís connected direct to the battery - this only happens when itís soldered to the board.

Ah, I thought you meant that if the camera is directly connected to the video screen, you have good image, but if you use the VTX and watch the wireless signal, you get the noise.

But I understand in both cases you are using the wireless signal, and watch on your goggles, but if you power the camera with the battery directly, image is good, but if you use a stabized voltage from the flight controller's 5V pads, you get the signal breaking up after a short time. That might suggest that the board has trouble powering the camera and VTX.

Btw, what battery voltage are you using?
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Sep 17, 2019, 04:04 PM
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That’s correct. I’ve used this board to power different micro cameras (tx01 on a qx90 setup) and its always worked great. Batteries at the hv 4.35v.
Again thanks so much for the help with this!
Sep 17, 2019, 05:11 PM
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Just done another test and basically once the motors come on the video link starts to fill with static. The more throttle the more static. With just enough throttle to take off the video link is virtually gone. Just weird as this is such a similar setup to what I’ve used before on the qx90. Just a 260mah not a 500, smaller motors and a different camera.


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